15000 mile oil?

[jumpingjack66]

ive been running full synth now since 15000 miles . i run it 5-6000 miles, and loose my nerve after that because i loose faith in the oil filter. i also buy an upgraded oil filter buy fram inted of the standerd orange box filter. Having real good results so far and will pull a oil test kit on it next oil change and post the results.. im at 75000 miles now...jj

[internic]

hopefully this aids some people, to my knowledge half the reason petroleum based oils even need to be changed is because the viscosity index enhancers that they have to add to the petroleum to stop it from turning to water at high temperatures are long chain molecules that can shear after a while from heat, pressure, whatever. so if you run a petro oil too long it will lose its ability to remain a 30 weight at engine temperature.

also, the first number in an oil rating like the 5 in 5w-30 is not a viscosity rating. the first number is actually a relative viscosity indicator, its a way of specifying the oil's flowability at a low temperature, relative to other oils, it is determined using a simulator where they spin a rotor submerged in the oil and measure the torque value. (or at least something like that)

[White Lightening]

Obviously many people are believers in synthetics. However it seems that most aren't evaluating their "needs" in the decision making process. Advertising by the manufacturers of oils and synthetics - in my opinion - too much influences buying decisions.

I use a regular oil in my vehicles - Havoline. No - I don't use whats handy - no - I don't buy whats on sale - no - I no longer switch between 2 or 3 brands - I use Havoline for everything except my jetskis - where I use Castrol. Havoline is still ALWAYS a western states product - while many others oil may be from the eastern states even though they come from Texas. All oil is not the same - and I don't believe in eastern states oils (paraffin is your sludge enemy). I use (or will consider) synthetics only in areas where flushing is not a normal process (like differentials).

To me - its all about "fire". My current truck has the added coolers on it - as a result my temperature does not move up from the 200/210 range. If it did go to 250/260 - then I'd start using synthetics - because synthetics keep lubrication levels at above 250 degrees. Temperature (fire) is the most harmful thing for your engine - keep the temperature lower - and you have less stress and less strain on the engine. Secondly - I WANT to flush the engine - its not an inconvenience - its a neccessity for me - so I want to change oil. I want the oil to be disposable - so that my engine is not. Cold, hot, dirt, and combustion create impurities and contaminants - flushing the system every 2500 to 4500 miles is the way to eliminate them. Better analysis and choices of oil filters is paramount too. 25 years ago - I'd use FRAM filters - today - because of the changes in their construction - I would not. Now I use Purolator. Puraltor ONE in the later Spring and summers - Purolator standard during the late fall and winters of Wisconsin. Why different filters? Because filtration levels are different in these two products and temperature determines it for me. No FRAM filters (or FRAMs under other names) of any kind for me anymore (since 1998's construction design change).

I change my own oil whenever possible - because I want to see and feel it. Use a halogen light at an angle to the oil - and you'll be able to see if you have any metalic in the refuse oil. Don't worry about color of the oil - worry about metalic - and smell the oil - burnt smell isn't a good thing. Lastly - look for seperation - that indicates gas in the oil - not a good thing either - blowby - bad rings etc..

I was told on my new truck - that my first oil change should be at 3000 miles. I laughed - and changed it at 750. Then I showed them a sample of the oil after 750 miles. Alot of stunned faces. My next change was at 1200 miles - again I showed them the sample compared to the 750 miles - you would have thought they'd never seen this "break in procedure" before. Then 2000 more miles. Now I'm up to 3000 mile changes and by this fall I'll be at 4000 mile changes. Consistent SAME good quality oil - a better choice of oil filters - maybe some Slick 50 - and regular intervals once break in is completed (first 10,000 miles).

I know - I know - new tolerances, tighter fits, less need for break in - I've heard it all before - and then - and then - you look at those oil samples - and it all becomes "clear".

My two cents.

[jethro_3]

So if you want to really know what is in your oil why don't you get it analyzed? Your nose and your eyes are not calibrated and can not seperate the harmful contaminants from the other misc that your oil picks up. As you stated oil will change color as it picks up moisture and other small chain unbroken carbons among other materials. Why not let the analasys tell you when to change your oil??????

[jeep_cj4x4]

I have never had my oil analized so I dont know about cost....but which is more cost effective? $20-25 every 5k miles or what ever your interval is... or the cost of shipping your sample, getting it tested and their replying back (fees)? just asking because I dont know and I'm sure others that are just finding out that you can have your oil tested (like me) dont know either.

[jethro_3]

Go here, they are also used by a lot of my coworkers who have their deisel daily/farm truck oil checked.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html

[jeep_cj4x4]

So, for $20 I can have my oil tested to see if I need to spend $20 more and change it or just leave the same old oil in for another 3-5k mi.

If I drove an 18 wheeler that used 10 gallons of oil, then I might consider testing my oil. For now I think I'll just change it every once in a while.

[jethro_3]

Use the test to tell you the what is going on. If you are changing it before the oil even gets to half life I guess that is what you want. If you can use the test to set a change schedule then I guess you found out what the tset can show you. With a synthetic the oil costs more than $20. If I can use the test and see that I need to get a better air filter than I guess I saved my engine. If I use the test to catch problems before the engine blows up than the $20 is well spent. Then again I could fall under the brain wash of 3000 miles because they said so. Each to his own....

[jeep_cj4x4]

ok, cool. I see your point now. Use it once in a while to see whats going on inside....then make adjustments to your schedule and maintenance as required.

[jethro_3]

The intent is not to test every time. Testing in a pattern that can help you set a program for oil changes is what you are after. If you start seeing certain metals than you know your engine is having problems and you can look into it. Just because you have less than 5000 miles on a clean air filter does not mean that it is still doing a good job, maybe you need a different type of filter.

That is the point, sorry for going off the deap end....