Car keeps dieing

[intrigueme29]

Hello everyone! I need help. My car was acting up not wanting to start. I could get it to start by reving it up to about 3000 rpm and then it would be fine. In the begining it was once a week then twice a week and so on... pretty soon it was dieing while I driving down the road. Anyway it wont idle @ 1000 rpm and if I keep my foot on the gas it runs really ruff and I get white smoke from the exaust. I hear this could be either a crankshaft position sensor or a throttle postion sensor. my questions are this which to replace first and where are these sensors on the engine? (by the way there are no trouble codes.) I think I have the 3.5 (anyone know how to identify the engine?) Thanks for your help in advance.

[panzer dragoon]

are you using an OBDII reader to get the trouble codes?

[intrigueme29]

I just talked to the guy who scaned it and he said it is. He also said there were 2 codes 1610 and 1626. but he cleared them before I seen an codes. He didn't think these codes would cause the problem I was having. The 1610 is a loss of communication and the other one he didn't know what it was. He says its an electrical problem of some sort. also after clearing the codes it ran fine but the problem came back the next day.

[kmohr3]

If it's a 98 it's a 3.8 liter.....

P1610 says "BCM or SBM serial comm link problem"

P1626 says "theft deterrent system fuel enable
circuit"

You mentioned a lot of white smoke - I would have your mechanic check the upper intake plenum for cracks and leaks - you may be burning coolant!

[intrigueme29]

this p 1626 code sounds bad. Anyone know how this code got triggered?

[intrigueme29]

guys I found the answer! the code 1610 triped when the crankshaft postion sensor went bad. its not getting a signal from it. this triggered the 1626. which is a theft deterrent system fuel enable. this code trips when and i quote"Engine, crankshaft, harmonic balancer, and crankshaft position sensor:If any of the above items are replaced, then a Crankshaft Variation relearn is necessary.

heres the link where i got the info:
http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf

the relearn sounds complicated but it all makes sense now. the computer isn't allowing the injectors to fire properly which isn't allowing the car to run unless i keep my foot on the gas. does this sound right to anyone else or am i going in the wrong direction. also has anyone else done this before and got some pointers. also i still need to know where the sensor is at. I heard it's behind the starter motor. Thanks in advance for any help.

[panzer dragoon]

think about getting AlldataDiy.com for $25 a year or getting the service manuals $60-80 and maybe a OBDII scanner $40-120 (Equus is ok).

The CKP sensor is over the starter and just under the exhaust manifold on that side. There is one bolt holding it on. You should be able to feel it. Maybe the starter doesn't need to come off?

Mine has been bad for over a year. But I'm just waiting for it to die (the part) or in a few months I will have the car paid off. There are actually 2 sensors on CKP sensor and one of mine went bad. Once the engine hits a certain temp it switches over to the other sensor and that's when my engine will stumble about 400rpms (possible stall condition). Once it gets past the stumble temp everything is fine. It takes a little longer to start sometimes cold also.

my codes were:
P0335 Sensor A of CKP
P1372

OEM part #10456594 about $100
GMpartsdirect.com is usually cheaper than the dealer. A generic part is maybe $40.

[intrigueme29]

I'm taking the car in to a locale garage friday. Will let you know how it turns out!