93 Escort Tie Rod End

[jeffwd1965]

This may be a stupid question. . .

I am trying to replace the outer tie rod ends on my Escort (It was a free car, has some rust but runs great) The Tie rod end broke as I was pulling out of the driveway this morning (Glad is wasn't at speed on the expressway.)

ANYWAY. . . I read a post earlier saying the tie rod end is right hand threaded. .. Does that mean it is reverse threaded? I have to turn the end clockwise to loosen it? If so that could explain why 2 of us could not get it to budge. . .

[Arnoldtheskier]

Soak the tie rod end,jam nut,nut with penetrating oil oil and leave it for a day or two.You will be GLAD! that you did.
2 ways to remove it.Either a "fork" for this purpose..auto store/rental etc.,OR a BIG! hammer.
Raise the car high on ramps.
Hold the inner part of the tie rod with the correct wrench or vice grips.While holding this BARELY loosen the jam nut with another wrench.Finger tighten the jam nut and count and REMEMBER the number of exposed threads so that you can reassemble it the same way.
Try and wiggle/pull out the cotter pin without breaking it.Loosen the tie rod end nut until it is flush with the end of the stud that it threads onto.
Either use the fork or hit the nut/stud assembly from the bottom to loosen it.If the nut turns the stud while trying to get the nut off.Grab the shaft with vice grips.

[jeffwd1965]

Originally Posted by Arnoldtheskier

Soak the tie rod end,jam nut,nut with penetrating oil oil and leave it for a day or two.You will be GLAD! that you did.
2 ways to remove it.Either a "fork" for this purpose..auto store/rental etc.,OR a BIG! hammer.
Raise the car high on ramps.
Hold the inner part of the tie rod with the correct wrench or vice grips.While holding this BARELY loosen the jam nut with another wrench.Finger tighten the jam nut and count and REMEMBER the number of exposed threads so that you can reassemble it the same way.
Try and wiggle/pull out the cotter pin without breaking it.Loosen the tie rod end nut until it is flush with the end of the stud that it threads onto.
Either use the fork or hit the nut/stud assembly from the bottom to loosen it.If the nut turns the stud while trying to get the nut off.Grab the shaft with vice grips.

The tie rod end actually broke, si I was already able to get the end out of the knuckle on the wheel (Used heat, penetrating oit and a BIG hammer). ..

The part I am having problems with (because it is not connected on the one end) it the part threaded on to the tie rod itself. Doe that have reverse threads? (Comes off by turning clockwise)????

[Arnoldtheskier]

I doubt that the "tie rod" ACTUALLY broke.(Especially the way you describe it)What most likely happenned is that the the stud on the end became so loose because of wear(the socket part) that the stud pulled out of the socket(common) I guess it could have been working around in there..for a LONG! time chewing up the stud and the stud broke..
Anywho..I DO NOT like the idea of "heat" being used(propane torch/map ok)BUT NOT! an oxy/acet torch..for front end work UNLESS!! it is in the hands of an expert.Too much heat basically destroys the heat treated already part.The temptation among non-experts with an oxy/acet set up is basically to heat the thing up until it basically falls apart..pulls apart with little effort.Cherry red.Having peered into a few too many parts that were distorted/"blued"..seeing cracks..and then the cracked parts fail..not good.Oh well..if it was done properly..no need for any criticism.
Escorts of this genre use the same tie rod ends(outers) left and right.They unscrew normally..counterclockwise.IF the jam nut is loosened they should come off with NO effort..hand pressure.The jam nut set-up on these things..SOMEONE had their thinking cap on! because the jam nut basically prevents all the crap from getting on the thread of the tie rod AND INTO the socket threaded part of the end.These are not prone to the RUST as in the days of yore when they were sleeved..and the sleeves HAD often to be spread to get them apart.
IF after the jam nut is loosened..this end doesn't come off with your hands..there is something wrong with the thread interface between the old end and the rod.I saw one once that on VERY close inspection had been changed before..and it looked like the round part of the sleeve had become munched a bit flat binding the rod in the socket.I hope you haven't been turning the inner tie rod at all.I would be VERY SERIOUSLLY thinking of another good rack with 2 good rods IF after the jam nut is off this thing is still hard to turn off..remember you are going to HAVE to screw it back together with the same alignment(toe).

[jeffwd1965]

Well I got it. . .
The Tie rod end came apart (in my mind, that is broken since it was in 2 distinct pieces and no longer functions in the manner in which it was designed.)

Only used propane. . . I don't have oxy or acetelyne (I can never spell it) and don't know how to use it. . .Just a part time tinkerer.

The problem I had was the jam nut had actually jammed (became rusted) to the threaded piece of the tie rod end. . . soaking overnight in PBlaster loosened it enough for me to get it off. . . Quite a trick since I didn't have the leverage of the wheel assembly.

Well. . .time to work on the other side (I hope it lasts until the weekend. . can't go without a car for another day!)

[mightymoose_22]

Your question was never answered... the driver side of the car should have reverse threads.

[Arnoldtheskier]

Question was answerred.."Escorts of this genre use the same tie rod ends..left and right..and unscrew counterclockwise" I have just done a few of these..I am assuming(I may be wrong) that the Cdn., and U.S cars are the same in this manner.