Brake pads

[sLADe781]

I'm gonna be redoing my brakes soon. Do you guys have any suggestions on which type of pads to get? Also, how do I flush the brake system? Or is there no such thing? Thanks in advance.

[Musashi3000GT]

depends on how much you wanna spend. you can get pads for 20 bucks or up to 120 bucks for a set of four.

I got some PFC carbon-ceramics, they are bad ass but cost 75 for the front and 45 for the back.

Autozone sells some nice ones too, theyre by a company called Bendix.
they come in a blue box and are called "Bendix TaitanuMetallic". I had them on before and they where just as good as the expensive stuff from Australia.

3SX sells the steeda pads too. if you want something better then stock but still economic look for some semi-mettalic at any autopart store.

you can flush the system by bleeding the callipers but its a pain in the tailpipe. I've never done it so I cant really offer any advise on that.

[2old]

Don't cheap out on brakes or it will cost you more in the long run. I bought some cheap organic Raybestos and it ended up burning my rotors (the brakes would vibrate but they rotors were not warped). I am guessing because the organic pads developed some hot spots because it discolored the rotor.

You probably want semi-metallic or ceramic (or some sort of carbon combination). Semi-metallic produces more dust but is easier on the rotors, ceramic produces less dust but will wear the rotors faster.

Flushing the brake lines is a bit of a pain to do by yourself unless you have some speed bleeders or someone to make sure that the valve is not sucking up air (because you don't want the brake lines to suck up air on the brake pedal upstroke).

[sLADe781]

Musashi, did you notice any difference with the ones you have now as opposed to the ones you had before?

2old, any specific brands you have in mind?

[2old]

I didn't like EBC (good grip, but it wears down too fast when they get warmed up).
I am currently using SBS (pretty good except they are causing a fair bit of wear on my rotors) and I am thinking about using Hawk when i change my pads this fall (and putting on brembo rotors because I can't afford the cryogenic powerslots).
Also, if you are going to bother with flushing and tweaking with the brakes, one of the best changes you can do is get some stainless steel brake lines... There are some horror stories out there, but as long as you check their condition (no leaks, frayed wires, etc.) whenever you wash your wheels, you should be fine.

[Musashi3000GT]

the PFCs are freaking track pads bro. hell yeah I noticed! and when they get hot they brake even better. I love them, worth every penny. The Bendix ones where good too, the main difference is the heat ressistance. the Bendix ones are street performance rated, they can handle all the street action you wana throw at them.
but when you get to the track and do left-foot braking then your gonna heat up your pads, not to mention I suck at heal-to-toe so I run throgh the corners still spinning hard, all that friction can burn up the pads. thats when you need somethin better like PFC or EBC. EBC makes three different colors, yellow, red, and green......I think. one of them is the track rated one, green I think. they do eat throught the rotors like 2old said.
I got the Brembo rotors though so they tend to resist wear down better then stock. all and all the pads last about a year and thats without track days. if I run it then they will last through about 3 track events. the rotors should last around 2 1/2 years or so.

[Im2Fast4U]

I'm running Stillen Metal Matrix pads right now, from 3SX (about $100 for front and back). They're pretty good but next time I change them I'm going with EBC green pads, from IPO's site. I've also heard good things about Hawk pads but have never run them (and they're the most expensive of the 3; although IPO offers them for close to the EBCs which is a really good price).

[sLADe781]

Okay, I probably won't go with EBC since I don't want my rotors messing up....don't have any money to replace it if it does at this point. How are the PFCs and Bendix on the rotors? Right now, I'm leaning with the Bendix brand because I don't go to the track anyways. Musashi, are these the ones you had on:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=219&ptset=A
Thanks for the help guys. I probably won't be flushing the system afterall because it seems a bit complicated at this point....

[privatebean]

How easy is it to replace your rotors and brake pads....for someone who has never done it or seen it done before? (Keep in mind, I have no real mechanical knowledge, the only thing I've done to cars is install speakers and headunits) The brakes I am nervous about....doing something in the engine worse case it won't start. But with brakes...doing 95 miles an hour and them failing...lets just say i won't be posting here any longer.

[Musashi3000GT]

I've never seen those Bandix Slade! The ones I had said Bendix TaitaniuMetallic on the box. They where just as good as the Stillens to me.
http://www.bendixbrakes.com/products.shtml
surprisingly enough the ones you posted there are supposed to be even better.....so I guess they must be equivelennt to the PFC ones!

Privatebean, dude the rotors slide right off. its easy as hell. if you can install speakers and a headunit then this should be a breeze. Hell I'll even take pictures of a breakdown for you and post it so you can see what to do.
you just gotta take the tire off, unbolt the calliper (2 bolts), slide the callpier off and hold it so you dont strain the brake line, unbolt the calliper mounting plate (2 bolts) and the rotor comes right off, just pull.
my advise though is if you dont have air tools, spray all the bolts with PCB blaster the night before and let them soak overnight.

like I said, I might be doing my wife's brakes soon so I can take a few pics. its the samme thing on all cars!

[Hotshot8792]

lucky for you i just replaced a rotor tonight so i have instructions fresh on my head.

Basically, the instructions are the same for all 4 brakes and rotors. Just do one at a time.

Jack up your car and put jack stands under it so the wheels are off the ground (or if your like me just jack it up so only one wheel is up). Anyways, pull the wheel off the car (and actually, if you dont have an impact wrench then you'll have to loosen the lugnuts up before you jack the car up or the wheel will turn while your trying to loosen it up).


Now, some of these bolts may be stuck, so it will be a good idea to have a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and a hammer to break them loose. You will also need a pair of giant vice scrips that are C shaped such as these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37005

Now, there are 3 12mm bolts that hold the brake lines in place, remove those. Now find some sort of object that you can place the brake caliper on so it doesnt hang from the brake lines (this is so you dont have to bleed your brakes).

Now, two 17 mm bolts on the back of the caliper, and then pull the caliper out (give it a nice tug). Now use a pry bar to get pull your brake pads out. Now your brake caliper pistons will probably be sticking out, so you'll need to put your old pad that went up against the piston back on it, and use the c shaped vise scrip to compress the piston back into the caliper.

Put the metal brackets on the outside of the old pads on the new pads. Now, there are two more 17 mm bolts behind the assembly that hold the rest of the brake caliper onto the rotor and through the metal behind the rotor. Take those out, the rest of the caliper will come out and the rotor will slide right on on out.

Then just slide the new rotor on, put the outside part of the caliper back on and put the two bolts right back in. Then put the two brake pads in place and slide the caliper still attached to the brake lines over the pads, and insert the bolts and tighten them down. Then put the wheel back on, and your done. Just push the brake in at least once before you go so you get your brake pistons on the pads before you try to drive your car lol.

[privatebean]

thanks, guys, pics or a link to instructions with pics would be an added bonus.

[Hotshot8792]

Originally Posted by privatebean

thanks, guys, pics or a link to instructions with pics would be an added bonus.

its not a difficult job to do, i think that if you try it yourself that you wont have much of a problem. Before you attempt it, just take one of hte wheels off and look for all the bolts you need to remove, and then once you get an idea, and some free time, try it.

[Igovert500]

OK, slade check this out:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-brakeupgrade.htm

I'm currently just like Im2fast4u, I have stock rotors and stillen metalmatrix pads, and will be trying ebc pads next.

privatebean, brakes aren't that hard. My suggestion is to find someone who has changed their pads (no matter what car) at least once, that is how I learned. Our calipers are slightly more complex than normal ones...but not to the point where you should be intimidated. My advice, do one at a time, so that if you don't remember how something goes, you can go look at the other one that is still intact.