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#1
04-03-2005, 05:31 PM
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Rotors on 94 Bonneville SSE
In the Haynes manual, the instructions for replacing the rotors says 'take off the rotor and put on the new one.' Well, my rotor does not come off. Some friends helped try, and nothing. It looks rusted, but we tried everything short of horses to get them off. Are the rotors on an SSE surgically attached to the hub? Or is there a special tool to get them off? Does the hub need to come off first? Please help, as I cannot afford to pay a mechanic to just take a look at it, then charge me more. Even if I do have to go to a mechanic, I want to decrease the chance of getting cheated by sounding like I know what I'm talking about or simply telling him what I want done. Thanks.
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#2
04-03-2005, 05:42 PM
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Re: Rotors on 94 Bonneville SSE
The rotors are supposed to come off only by removing the wheel and caliper. Yours sounds like it's rusted/frozen on the hub. Brush off all the rust and crud that you can with a wire brush then apply some penetrating oil where the hub comes through the rotor. Let it set for several minutes then tap the rotor with a hammer to encourage the oil to seep in. You may need to do this a couple of times.
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#4
04-06-2005, 09:27 PM
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Re: Rotors on 94 Bonneville SSE
PB Blaster is good as is Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. WD-40 is a general lubricant and will not do the same job that penetrating oil will.
Don't forget to give it some time to work in and occasionally tap the rotor.
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#5
04-09-2005, 02:49 PM
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Re: Re: Rotors on 94 Bonneville SSE
Thanks for your help.
Right now, I have been spraying and tapping for over 3 hours. I am using PB Blaster and a rubber mallet. The rotor will not even budge. Are you sure there isn't some nut, screw or pin holding the rotor to the hub?
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#6
04-10-2005, 08:37 AM
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Re: Rotors on 94 Bonneville SSE
There are no extra fasteners holding the rotor onto the hub. In cases where the rotor has been overheated due to a braking problem or if the car has been sitting for a while, they can be very stubborn.
You might have to use a large puller of some sort. These apply even outward pressure. Also, heating the rotor can help too. I would only advise this if you are experienced with a torch though. The reason for tapping the rotor is so the vibrations in the metal cause the penetration of the oil. Some physics thing, I guess. I use a regular hammer for this and a rubber mallet to whack it from the back to dislodge
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