1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 Erratic Idle/Stalling/Hard Starting

[amigo-2k]

Nope, just a guy that has been reading this Isuzu boards since 1998.

And I went to Moab with a bunch of other Isuzu owner (75 of them) in 2001.

Rental Trooper in Moab:

[BIAR]

Awesome picture,I,ll check with you guys later.Carl

[dingobait]

Thanks for all of the info everyone. I was just checking out the IMG removal and installation in the Rodeo service manual(s). It doesn't look like too difficult a job. I was hoping that they would show a picture of the gasket, but they don't.

Just curious, is it one big gasket, or does it come in two or more parts (one for each side?)?

Since you mention Carl that you don't fully remove the intake manifold when replacing them, but instead lift it just high enough to get them in it seems that it isn't just one big gasket. Any further info appreciated. I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start. Looks like it would take a couple hours?

I'm off to find the best price/availability on the gasket.

Yep, that is a cool pic Ryan.

Back soon.

Mark
Huntington Beach, Ca.
[email protected]

[amigo-2k]

upper



lower



photos from this post:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...ev=#Post677759

[BIAR]

Mark,This is going from memory,like I stated early I haven,t worked at dealer since aug.So I can not look at one to make sure I am not missing something.
Remove the plastic cover.Disconnect neg battery terminal.7/8 erg pipe pass side rear,the four throttle body bolts,I leave the hoses hooked up so you don,t make a mess with coolant.The pain is 5mm allen head bolts at the fuel pressure reg.You don,t have to seperate the upper and lower,just pick up the bottom.I leave the fuel line hooked up because it is a pain to release.If you have someone to help lift it up would help.Then I lift up the intake replacing one side at a time.
I think that is everything.I hope this helps.Of course torque to specs.Carl

[BIAR]

Oops,that is egr pipe not erg.I lift it up just enough to get them in.Carl

[dingobait]

Great. Thanks for all of the info and the pics. Priceless. I'll give an update soon.

Can't thank everyone enough.

Mark

[dingobait]

Well, I'm finally back in off the road. It's been a little over a month I believe since my last entry on this. I haven't done anything yet since the problem only rears it's ugly head very briefly every two weeks or so. The local dealer has the IMG for $23 so I'll pick that up this week and hopefully get a chance to change it out next weekend.

Still sounds like the IMG, right?

Many thanks,
Mark

[dingobait]

I picked up the IMG's (lower one between IM and head), part number 8-97237538-0, $23 each side, from the dealer. Their construction, a composite or plastic material about 1/8" thick sandwiched between two metal plates, clarifies in my mind how they could definitely be problematic.

I am currently not having the wildly fluctuating idle and stalling problem, and my gas mileage is really good. As soon as the problem re-occurs, even slightlly, I will change them out. I will provide feedback on the fix including the condition is of the gaskets I remove.

Until then.

Mark

[TREEMECH]

I have recently encountered two problems with my pickup:
1. Upon the vehicle warming up, when you cut it off, it will turn over but
will not start up. If you let it sit for about 1 to 2 hours, it will start
and run as if there was never a problem. I have replaced the fuel filter,
mass air flow sensor, air filter, oxygen sensor, distributor cap, rotor,
wires, and plugs. I performed a computer self diagnostic and detected no
problems. I placed a fuel pressure gage in line with the fuel pressure regulator and I am getting over 60 psi (vice 42 psi max) when the engine is running. Upon troubleshooting, I determined that I can duplicate the original discrepancy at any time, if I relieve fuel pressure to the gage by removing then replacing the fuel pump relay. Eureka it is the fuel pressure regulator! Right? Now the plot thickens. If I tap the fuse box in the engine compartment, the pickup will immediately crank however, the fuel pressure will still peg out my 60 psi gage. I swapped the headlight and fuel pump relay (same part numbers) and the problem doesn’t change. I am still focused on the fuel pressure regulator as the problem. I think the abnormally high pressure that the pressure regulator is supplying to the fuel system is causing the ECM to send erroneous signals to the fuel pump relay. I will be purchasing a regulator tomorrow, any suggestions will be appreciated. I noticed some earlier posts in reference to the intake manifold gasket causing idling/stalling problems. Could that be my problem?
2. Upon applying brakes, I physically feel the brake pedal gradually
losing pressure and sinking to the car's deck. Unless I pump the brake
pedal 2-3 times to build up pressure, the brake pedal will continue to
sink, and I will eventually lose braking power and roll forward. I have
replaced the front disc brake pads. The rear drum brake pads do not appear
to be worn beyond specifications. I have generously bled all brakes.
Visual inspection of all brake components has revealed no leaks. I am not
losing brake fluid from the master cylinder.