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#1
03-13-2005, 07:18 PM
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Oil leak
My boy has a 94 LS with over 150,000 miles. He has a leak coming from the left side of the head just under the distributor. When he drives really hard it starts to leak. After he wipes it off and drives normally it won't leak anymore. Also when his enigne idles it rattle like crazy and send vibes throughout the car including his shifter which really annoys him.
I'm thinking it's a leaking headgasket. Any thoughts and comments will be greatly appreciated.
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Tsudo N1 Catback Custom 4-2-1 Header Custom Hi-Flow Cat Custom CAI Exedy Organic Fidanza Flywheel NGK Iridium Tokico HP Suspension ADR DV8 Sandblack Rims Nankang NS-1 Rubber 
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#2
03-13-2005, 10:31 PM
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Re: Oil leak
Leaking headgasket would cause a few things
1: reduction in power 2: coolant in oil...which would show up as bubbles in the oil 3: white smoke coming from exhaust Also the shaking could be from worn motor mounts...it is fairly common in older Honda/Acuras with that kind of mileage for the motor mounts to get worn out and let the engine vibrate like crazy.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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#3
03-13-2005, 11:04 PM
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Believe it or not but I'm having the same problem with my car. I have a 95' GSR and I just had the engine rebuilt. Only when I drive really hard does my car leak oil. Also it vibrates really bad at idle. Iradically though. If it was a steady vibration I would just figure it was the polyurethane inserts I put in my brand new motor mounts but it's not. It's an uneven vibration. Nobody has been able to figure it out so I'm in the same boat. I'm thinking of just selling my car.
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JDM B18C, LSD tranny, Exedy flywheel/clutch, AEM intake, Greddy cat back, stainless header, Skunk2 manifold, Koyo radiator, Tokico Illumina full coilovers, black 17" Konig Hurry's, dc strut bars, custom cf hood, poly motor mounts, alum. battery bracket, b&m short shifter, Viper alarm, spoon chip, Tenzo R seats, Kenwood amp, Pioneer and MTX speakers w/cross over's, euro antenna, NGK wire's and plugs, Mobil 1 syn. and a whole lot of attitude. 9.4 sec 1/8 mile at Irwindale 4/20/06
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#4
03-13-2005, 11:08 PM
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Any help from an expert would be very appreciated.
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JDM B18C, LSD tranny, Exedy flywheel/clutch, AEM intake, Greddy cat back, stainless header, Skunk2 manifold, Koyo radiator, Tokico Illumina full coilovers, black 17" Konig Hurry's, dc strut bars, custom cf hood, poly motor mounts, alum. battery bracket, b&m short shifter, Viper alarm, spoon chip, Tenzo R seats, Kenwood amp, Pioneer and MTX speakers w/cross over's, euro antenna, NGK wire's and plugs, Mobil 1 syn. and a whole lot of attitude. 9.4 sec 1/8 mile at Irwindale 4/20/06
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#5
03-17-2005, 11:39 AM
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I just checked out my boys engine yesterday and I found out that it can't be the head gasket. The oil is coming from the head. Maybe the camseal on the left side of the engine is leaking or I could be wrong. But the idling is really bad. I drove it on the highway and when it reaches 65MPH the pedals and shifter vibrates so much that you don't wanna accelerate even faster. Could this still be a engine/tranny mount issue? Thanks in advance.
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Tsudo N1 Catback Custom 4-2-1 Header Custom Hi-Flow Cat Custom CAI Exedy Organic Fidanza Flywheel NGK Iridium Tokico HP Suspension ADR DV8 Sandblack Rims Nankang NS-1 Rubber
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#7
03-19-2005, 09:25 AM
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Re: Oil leak
Try the o-ring that seals the distributor off. What you are explaining is normal for any leak. When you get on the engine, you increase the oil psi and force it thorough the poorly sealed spots. The honda valve cover gaskets do leak from the corners (corners between the two cam humps) Cam seal, o-ring, corners of the valve cover gasket and if you have vtec, I have even heard of them leaking from the area around the solenoid.
The vibration could be several different things. Your idle air control valve, fast idle thermo valve, throttle position sensor, motor mounts, bad tire, poor camber/toe are amongst a few of them. You will need to narrow down what all it could be. If you have checked the mounts and not ridden the problem, I would then try the I.A.C.V. or F.I.T.V., if there is not fix at idle, try the T.P.S. For high speed rattle, resort back to the tires, camber/toe, mounts, control arms, and lastly wheel bearing/hub assembly. I know thats a lot of possibilities, but I wanted to put more than just check your mounts... Don't get me wrong, there are several other things it could be; however, I listed the most popular issues. Good luck!
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#8
03-19-2005, 03:40 PM
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I just put a newly rebuilt distributor on my car about a month ago. But even before I did that it still leaked. I also replaced the gasket for my vtec solenoid. The leak is still coming from the left side of my engine. As far as the vibrating, I think your right about the sensors. I have 3 brand new torque mounts in my engine bay so I don't think it's that. What do you think is a reasonable price to get all my sensors checked out. I'm not too good with electrical stuff.
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JDM B18C, LSD tranny, Exedy flywheel/clutch, AEM intake, Greddy cat back, stainless header, Skunk2 manifold, Koyo radiator, Tokico Illumina full coilovers, black 17" Konig Hurry's, dc strut bars, custom cf hood, poly motor mounts, alum. battery bracket, b&m short shifter, Viper alarm, spoon chip, Tenzo R seats, Kenwood amp, Pioneer and MTX speakers w/cross over's, euro antenna, NGK wire's and plugs, Mobil 1 syn. and a whole lot of attitude. 9.4 sec 1/8 mile at Irwindale 4/20/06
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#9
03-20-2005, 10:22 AM
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Re: Oil leak
Depends where you take it. The dealer will likely be the best bet on sensors, as they will actually consult the book for voltage and offer advice accordingly. Some mechaincs will be like, well, you are not getting a proper idle, so it can be this this or that. Lets start with replacing this kind of thing. You will end up broke fast
 It requires only a multimeter, a few tools and some time to check them for proper operation. Have you removed the valve cover gasket to check the corners for leakage?
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