Losing Power overnight

[Shaggybearded]

I have a 1990 Buick Century, and I'm having problems with it losing power overnight. I usually have to jump start it. But it's getting to be a hassle. I just had a new starter put in it. Someone suggest that the cylanoid was bad...but which cylanoid???? Can someone offer any suggests??

Thanks,
Shaggy

[tman]

I'd just like to educate you, the correct spelling is solenoid

[Shaggybearded]

Thanks for the spelling quiz...but that still doesn't help me out with my problem. You still knew what I was talking about.

[tman]

I'm not much for solenoids.

[GTP Dad]

The solenoid is the magnetic part of the starter that when the power is applied from the battery it engages the starter motor drive to the flywheel. Now that that is out of the way, how old is the current battery? If it is more than 3 it could just be a bad battery that is not holding a charge. Second, did you actually recharge the battery or are you depending on the alternator to recharge it. If the latter is the method, get a battery charger and fully charge it. Alternators only maintain a battery they do not totally recharge them. Next, check to make sure all the lights are going off when the key is off. You may have a trunk light or glove box light that is staying on and draining the battery. If this is not the case check for a short in the system somewhere. I would think that a good battery recharge or a new battery may cure all your problems. If the battery still goes dead after this then you have a short somewhere that you are going to need to locate. Good Luck!

[Shaggybearded]

Thanks for your inpute GTP Dad. I will try some of the suggests you gave me. I have a sneaky feeling there is a short somewhere. The automatic doors locks use to work...then they just quit. and same with the drive seat. The battery is not quite a year old. Again, thanks!!!!

[Mister-X]

I am also working on the same car 1990 Buick Cent......Battery was load tested after being fully charged with a charger, and it was good. Then left to sit for 2 days out of the car and once I put it back in it fired up the car right away. Checked the alternator at the local auto parts store and it was putting out 14.5V exactly. Checked the starter, and it was good but showing a lower then normal amperage pull??? With everything installed Car on, I am reading 14.5V at the alternator, 14.1V at the Batt, and 14.1V at the solenoid... Just pulled the trunk light bulb, we'll see tomorrow if that was the cause but I don't think it is. I tried everything I could think of, any help would be great.......

[86TATpi]

This is assuming that the battery was checked along with the charging system. Also terminals are tight and in good shape and the power wires going to the starter solenoid and tight and clean.

With a fully charged battery, disconnect the hood light (if it has one) and the trunk light (because you can't see if it's staying on). Turn on your headlights for about 5 minutes. Check voltage being drawn from the battery with nothing on. If there is more than about 600mV you have a problem. This checks for an abnormal drain. The only thing that your car should be using the battery for when it's not running is the computer and the memory on the radio. After that you just start checking wires for shorts or a faulty switch that may be keeping something on. Like the glovebox which was mentioned, or trunk light. And hopefully it's not too extensive of a search. Good luck.

[Flatrater]

Have you performed a current draw test? Using a meter installing it on the negative cable terminal and the other end connected to the neg post on the battery. Your meter sghould read less than 35ma draw. Anything more will kill the battery.

If your draw is above 35ma start pulling fuses one at a time till your draw goes away. This will ball park your problem and you can go from there.


To kill a battery overnight would take a large draw of at least 2 amps. Starter, A/C compressor and lights would be the most likely suspect to do this.

[mcichy]

Originally Posted by Flatrater

Have you performed a current draw test? Using a meter installing it on the negative cable terminal and the other end connected to the neg post on the battery. Your meter sghould read less than 35ma draw. Anything more will kill the battery.

If your draw is above 35ma start pulling fuses one at a time till your draw goes away. This will ball park your problem and you can go from there.


To kill a battery overnight would take a large draw of at least 2 amps. Starter, A/C compressor and lights would be the most likely suspect to do this.

I had the same problem of a dead battery in the morning. It only happened when the temp fell below 30 degrees. I traced it to the brake peddle sagging and the brake lights comming on, and staying on all night. Have your brake peddle adjusted.

[jibbijib]

Its most likely the battery itself. I had the exact same problem. the starter and solenoid were fine, the battery was just not fully charged. Get it charged and run it for 20 minutes or so. That should save it.