Chevy Celiberity 1988 Problem

[superlooperjr]

I have looked all over for the answer and get a different one from everyone. But here is the problem. The car drives fine for about 20-30 minutes then just stalls out when you apply the brake. Starts back up easily but when you put it into any gear the engine stalls again. If you wait for 5-10 minutes it will drive again. What is this? I have been told to replace the coil, but this is not the problem is it? Please help this is my daily driver!

[superlooperjr]

After starting the car up this morning the check engine light came on and the stupid thing sputters (missing) like it is just running on 3 cylinders. I think it is the "coil pack" but it looks like a nightmare to try to change out. Anyone know anything about these? Looks like it is to the rear of the engine midway. I was looking just for a standard coil but guess what this car does not have one!

[84fiero123]

no the enginers, (never liked them) made that decision no more coil no more distribitor. when it works its great. technology is great when it works but when it doesn't it can be a pain in the ass.

just ask the guys with the new navigation systems. luckily all mine still have the dist. and coil. there is a test for the coil pack but right now i'm having a brain fart ( had a stroke back in dec. and sometime things just aren't there)
hopefully one of the other guys will ans. soon sometime it takes a while so be patiant. :

[Bronco2]

As far as the check engine lite,have the codes read and that will lead you in the right direction. On an 88, if you have no codes,suspect a bad plug wire.About the stalling problem-I am guessing this car has the lock-up torque convertor that is staying engaged when you try to stop. The easy test is to disconnect the 4 pin connector on the trans. If this stops the stalling,you need to replace the TQ lock up solonoid.

[superlooperjr]

I just went and sold the car for 400$.

[TheTurdRules]

Well I have the same exact problem with my Turd (88 Chevy Celebrity). I have been told to do this so I will tonight. I cant believe the original poster sold his baby. I could never sell my girl. I guess I will take the original poster's place and write back here if that works. In another thread it was suggested that I run the car for 3-4 miles at least at 45. Is that really necessary? And what about the half mile it takes for me to get to a street where I CAN go that fast?

[superlooperjr]

I bought an 92 Olds Cutlass Supreme S. But I think the problem with the one I sold was a Power (coil) Pack. Whatever you wanna call the gizmo they tried to replace the disribitor and coil with. In a normal car I would have suspected fuel filter,fuel pump or the coil. But I am not a mechanic not by a long shot!! I just try to keep em going.

[n0c7]

For those of you who need to change one of the coil packs:

1) Remove the entire ignition module, its 3 bolts. It is difficult to remove because you can't see what you are doing, just feel your way around. This is the same for most of the Tech 4 engines.

2) Once the 3 bolts are removed, disconnect the harnesses(Celebrity's seem to have 2) and disconnect the plug wires

3) CAREFULLY remove the ignition module. The crank sensor rests inside the engine and is about 1 1/2 inches long, so if you arent careful you will snap off the crank sensor and will have to fish it out(not fun).

4) Once removed, you can then easily change the coil pack(s). If you try to change them without removing the ingition module, you will be able to get them off but not back on because of the nut/bolt design(the nut has play and will not catch, and even if it does you cannot get it tight.)