Electrical problem??

[sierrap615]

Originally Posted by thami_b

Not that I am trying to fix it, but could it cause the alternator prob's I am having? i.e.,You anwered my question about testing an alternator in another post.

i doubt it, the two circuits arn't anywhere near each other. you may want to double check all the fuses, if you haven't already. i can't think of any quick fixes to this one. sorry. it might be interesting to see if it still happens if you pull the washer fuse...

[catesja]

My 98 SL wipers did the same thing. It is the wiper motor control module, unfortunately it is all under the windshield cowl vent. Took several hours to get my hands in there to get it out. The motor itself was fine, but one of the small relays in the control module was fried and would short itself out. I bought a used unit from the wrecking yard and had it fixed in a few hours. I still have the old motor and am trying to figure out what to do with it now!! It works great. I have the module somewhere in a shop. I had a friend take it to an electronics shop to be repaired, but he has been to busy.

[nightbird]

We had to replace the alternator twice in our 94 sl1. When the alternator starts to fail anything and everything can work wrong. This last time we thought it was the trans failing. The trans was running wrong - due to bad electric. It was the alternator, but that doesnt mean it didnt hurt the trans. Trans shop told us as the alternator brushes wear down everything is affected. For a long time (more than a year!) I noticed the dash air vents had a very weak airflow. Thought it was blockage. A new alternator and battery and the vent airflow is twice as powerful. Someone on this forum said the alternator is the achille's heel of the saturn. One mechanic told me it's a bear putting alternators on saturn; he said some guys refuse to do it, and some shops charge double. We paid thru the nose. This time I got the battery with the shorter warranty - why bother when I will probably be replacing it anyway. There is something in saturn design that tears up alternators and sink batteries

[sierrap615]

the design flaw of the alternator is it is mount above the exhaust system, quite hot back there. and the power steering doesn't give you alot of room to replace it.

[DrStu]

Saturns are notorious for having alternator problems. The main reason is that they are located near the bottom, back side of the engine. It’s close to the exhaust, but more importantly there’s not enough air flow to keep them cool. I’ve had two SL2s and replaced alternators in both of them. Neither one failed immediately, it was a slow and gradual process. Like some of your comments, the first time I thought I was having transmission problems or other issues. The reason is that the alternator is only putting out partial power, and finally falls below the critical voltage for the powertrain control module. It locks itself in an emergency diagnostic mode, shifts hard and lurches. Keeping higher revs ups the voltage slightly, but eventually it affects the engine computer and associated electronics. Some inexperienced dealers or owners temporarily solve the problem by installing a new battery. It works for a while, because the alternator still puts out some voltage and the new battery compensates at lower revs or idle. But only for a few weeks…

I have had much better luck with factory alternators directly from the dealership. The aftermarket can’t seem to get it quite right. I also installed a voltage gauge so I can keep an eye on things. That and keep your terminals tight and free of corrosion (coat them with a small amount of grease, inside and out).

Ok, there’s my advice. Now for my problem, I’m hoping someone has run into the same. I have a ’95 SL2 with 160,000 mi and I’m looking for the location of the left side body ground splice pack. I think I may have a loose or corroded ground. Symptoms: dome light (and ignition, headlight chime) does not work with driver’s door, but does with all passengers. The rear defrost only works if you hold the switch down. The radio went out, and the outside electric door lock switch (in the driver’s door key) is inop. All happened at exactly the same time. Here’s the strange part: they ALL come back to life if you unlock the power locks and hold the switch down. But I can’t drive around all day holding the lock switch.

Hayne’s manual generic wiring diagrams haven’t helped much. Has anyone had this problem or know how to fix it?

[sierrap615]

grounds - http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/sho...p/photo/17765/

but first, check all your fuses, start with the CHIME fuse