Do Corollas require special coolant?

[rob1005]

I don't know where I heard this but remember hearing that Corollas need special coolant from the dealer. Can someone verify if this is true. Or is this just a way of getting more money out of us. The problem is all my coolant leaked out today (dont know why yet), and the dealer is closed so I'm seeing if I should make a stop by Canadian TIre.

[auld6901]

toyota does have their own coolant. its kinda pink in color but its the same grade as green coolant. there should be no problem with just picking some up from the auto store.

[GSS123]

Information from another thread. I didn't know how to provide a link to it sorry.

The only difference I know of between the two types of antifreeze is the green is mostly ethylene glycol and is poisonous. Dogs love it and will die if they drink too much. The red antifreeze is made of mostly propylene glycol and is non-toxic. They are different colors so you don't inadvertently mix them.

Both have corrosion inhibitors so they should both be safe for your engine. The green is not safe to spill unless you wash it away with a hose so that no animal can drink it.

In either case, make sure you use distilled or deionized water to compound the coolant mixture.


There are currently five main types of antifreeze. In all cases the 'anti-freeze' properties last the life of the coolant - it is the various additives that deteriorate with time. These additives include anti-foaming agents, surfactants (to improve the 'wetting' of the coolant and hence give better heat transfer) and anti-corrosion additives.

1. Ethylene Glycol - this is the traditional stuff, used since the 1950's. It uses silicates to stop corrosion by passivating the metal surface. This type of anti-freeze is suitable for most European cars, but not Japanese cars. Japanese manufacturers normally recommend a low- or no-silicate formulation due to the nature of the seal materials that they use (see below).
Typical service life of 2-4 years.

2. Ethylene Glycol: Low or no-silicate formulation. This is specified by most Japanese cars. OEM Nissan, Toyota 'red' etc. antifreezes use phosphates rather than silicates to inhibit corrosion. Silicates are abrasive and the use of high silicate antifreezes in Japanese cars may result in premature failure of seal materials.
Typical service life of 2-4 years.

3. Mono Propylene Glycol - this still uses silicates and is claimed to last 4 years. Mono Propylene Glycol does not conduct heat as well as Ethylene Glycol and currently carries NO recommendation from any major car manufacturer- and some actually caution against it. The main claim to fame for Mono Propylene Glycol is that its less toxic than Ethylene Glycol.
Typical service life of 2-4 years.

4. Organic Acid Technology (OAT) - e.g. GM 'DexCool'. Introduced in 1995, this is a recyclable and biodegradable antifreeze which is based on organic acids and is silicate- and phosphate-free. However, due to the nature of the chemicals used, it can attack certain seal and gasket materials and therefore should only be used in vehicles for which it is factory specified.
OAT antifreeze MUST NOT be mixed with the types listed above - if you wish to switch to OAT type then the cooling system must first be chemically flushed.
The claimed service life of the corrosion inhibitor package is about 5 years, or 100-150,000 miles.

5. Ethylene Glycol-based 'Hybrid Organic Acid Technology' (HOAT). Uses Ethylene Glycol, but with OAT-based corrosion inhibitors and some added silicates; most usually BASF's "Glysantin" additive package is used (also known as 'G-05'). HOAT is less agressive than straight OAT anti-freeze and has better cavitation resistance. Halfords 'Advanced Antifreeze' is an HOAT formulation. Again, best to thoroughly flush your system if switching to it.
Lasts 4-5 years.

The bottom line is to refill your engine with what the factory supplied and do a flush-and-refill every 4 years maximum. If you have a Japanese car, stick to the maker's brand since non-OEM coolants may contain higher levels of potentially damaging silicates.

If mixing your coolant from a 'concentrate' then use demineralised or distilled water. Tap water often has a lot of dissolved minerals in it which can leave scale deposits inside the engine's coolant passages.