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  #1  
Old 12-23-2004, 01:47 AM
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ForcedInduction509 ForcedInduction509 is offline
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3000GT info.

Im looking to get a new project car and the 3000GT poped into my mind. Out of all the cars I seen in the streets this is the only one that does not require to be ricy to be nice (bodykit, neon, stickers ect.). kid down the street owns one and it makes me sad to see what he has done to the car. Anyways I been debating on wether to purchase a Vr-4 or an LS. The Vr-4 is the choice for performance straight out the box (AWD and TT ) but is it reliable? and I have heard from countless people that you have to have money (alot of it) to put on aftermarket parts on the Vr-4. LS is a on the back of my mind if aftermarket parts for the honda accord are too much. Thnx ahead of time for any info provided.
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Old 12-23-2004, 04:04 AM
GritMaster GritMaster is offline
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Yes parts can be kinda expensive, But you don't need to spend much to get the Vr-4 quite fast.

There's an article on a guy who got his into the 12's with just $2000 worth of mods.

Not to bad at all I'd have to say.
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For about 700 dollars you can have about 80 horespower at the wheels and about 70 torque.
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Old 12-23-2004, 09:59 AM
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The 3000 and Stealth are pretty reliable. The thing you most often hear is the syncros gonig to crap. That one is a hit or miss. Some of us have never had that problem and some of us have. If you can work on your own car, then its not all that expensive of a problem.

In general the aftermarket support for the Stealth and 3K is way behind the DSM and Honda folks. There are many things out there, but the number of manufacturers is limited.

Getting the VR4 is always my first choice (hence why I bought a couple) but its also the most complex of the line up - especially prior to 96. But, the SL looks just as sharp and is pretty solid on the track.













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Old 12-23-2004, 10:15 AM
G35turbo G35turbo is offline
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Re: 3000GT info.

I bought a vr4 this OCT and it a 97 and i love my car. I just got a clutch, downpipe, boost controller, boost gaguge, Air/Fuel Gauge, BOV. That cost me a total of $1800 and i know people that did samething and they ran very easily high 12s and if your good driver and do some littler more mods you will get it in to low 12s easily.
The looks, I cant stress this enough girls love this cars. SL or VR-4. If i was u i will buy a vr4. Just when you test drive the car dont listen to the owner and drive hard on every gear and see if everything feels they way it should feel.
If you find a SL or Vr-4 just start a new thread and ask people if they can help u to look for problems in the car and were to look for them.
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Old 12-23-2004, 10:44 AM
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-24-2004, 12:04 AM
Hotshot8792 Hotshot8792 is offline
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Re: 3000GT info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GritMaster
Yes parts can be kinda expensive, But you don't need to spend much to get the Vr-4 quite fast.

There's an article on a guy who got his into the 12's with just $2000 worth of mods.

Not to bad at all I'd have to say.

$2,000? you must buy expensive stuff just to get into the 12s. I have friends who hit 12s with a homemade boost controller that cost them like 10 bucks, a $20 intake, a $20 boost gauge, and gutted their precats which didnt cost them a penny since they did it themselves. Which the total cost was $40. Of course he knows how to drive and cut a 1.7 60' so if you get the launch down with just those mods, you can hit as good as a 12.8
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black
3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black
Intake & Boost Controller so far


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Old 12-24-2004, 12:37 AM
GritMaster GritMaster is offline
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Ok. Well I was just using this magazine article for an examlpe. the guy ran a 12.32 :P
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Quote:
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For about 700 dollars you can have about 80 horespower at the wheels and about 70 torque.
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