2001 Suburban broken axle - help

[dbell5]

No, not beating it on the rocks; in city traffic. Long story short, I was in Park after being bumped from behind, jumped back in, pulled into gear and hit the throttle. Realized I was still in Neutral, foot off the gas, pulled down to Drive (too quickly). One wheel spun on the damp pavement briefly, then bit. BANG - left rear axle snapped. Eased it home in 4WD (hey - this drives *different* as a front wheeler!), and of course, it's Friday evening, and my favorite local independent shop is closed for the weekend, as are the dealers. Sounds like the shaft snapped close to, but inboard the left rear wheel.

1) How major a job is it going to be for the shop to replace the axle shaft?
2) Possible/reasonable to do it myself? It's been years since I did any serious wrenching, but I have done in the past, and have help available.
3) Possible to do a field expedient (you're stranded in the mountains) temporay "fix", by pulling the broken shaft from the wheel end, and running that way for a few days? Even in central California, this isn't the best weather to fall back on my Miata with no rear window!

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

[GMMerlin]

Is this a 2500 series truck?
If this is a 1500 series there is no way you drove home with a broken axle. The rear end is a semi-floating diff..the axle is held in by a c clip..if the clip or axle breaks, the axle will slide out of the diff housing.

[dbell5]

Originally Posted by GMMerlin

Is this a 2500 series truck?
If this is a 1500 series there is no way you drove home with a broken axle. The rear end is a semi-floating diff..the axle is held in by a c clip..if the clip or axle breaks, the axle will slide out of the diff housing.

"Yet it moves..."

Yes, a 1500, which I neglected to mention.
Symptoms:
In 2HI, the truck doesn't move, the engine races freely, and the speedo agrees with the engine, as if in high gear.
At an idle, with the parking brake on, I can walk around the rear, and hear a deep-pitched rattle/clunking inboard of the left rear wheel.

Sure sounds like the broken end bumping around in the housing...

Where is this C clip? In the differential, I assume? How is the axle connected at the wheel end? Am I going to have to trailer it to the garage?

Thanks!

Dave

[GMMerlin]

Then most likely you have broken a pinion gear.

[dbell5]

Originally Posted by GMMerlin

Then most likely you have broken a pinion gear.

Bottom line: Everything in the housing is shot. Probably initially a broken spider gear or gears, with collateral damage to everything else.

The independant transmission shop subcontracting the repair suggests replacing the carrier with an upgraded, aftermarket assembly, due to known frequent faiures of the OEM parts. Is anyone here familiar with this as a known problem? Might it be worth my while going after GM for a break, even though it's out of warranty?

Thanks,

Dave

[mrrpm]

I have a '94 that stripped the gears. I couldn't find a suburban rear end at a salvage yard for under $800, so I used one out of a pickup. Bolted right in, except I had to weld sway bar mounts onto the axle housing. Total cost $300. No problems in the last 25K. Fact is, you drive a heavy truck that puts a lot of stress on the rear. How much are you willing to spend to upgrade?

[dbell5]

Originally Posted by mrrpm

I have a '94 that stripped the gears. I couldn't find a suburban rear end at a salvage yard for under $800, so I used one out of a pickup. Bolted right in, except I had to weld sway bar mounts onto the axle housing. Total cost $300. No problems in the last 25K. Fact is, you drive a heavy truck that puts a lot of stress on the rear. How much are you willing to spend to upgrade?

Well, the truck is sitting at home, in limbo, right now. That gives me time to consider other options. I have to say, $300 plus a little welding is a lot better sounding then $1800! How about matching ratios (to the frnt end), and any extra components (I understood there is a sensor or something in the 2001 rear end)?

Dave

[mrrpm]

I would get the same ratio as what is currently in the truck (something about "factory knows best"). Best bet is to look your assembly over closely, maybe even take some pics, then head to the junk yard. Measure overall width and how far apart spring pads are. Brake stuff is all bolt-on, including backing plates, so that's not an issue. Look at where everything is in relation to everything else, then make your best bet. I spent several hours finding the right rear, but I'm kind of anal that way, no pun intended.