'95 F-250 rust repair / restore

[termiflyer]

I just bought a '95 F-250 that has quite a bit of rust around the wheel wells and bottom of the doors. I have two things that I would love some advice for:

(1) In the short term, I would like to slow or stop any further damage to the panels. Can you recommend how I would go about doing so?

(2) In the long term, I would like to repair or restore the panels, not in the sense of restoring a '67 mustang, but just to get rid of the rust. I haven't done any work like this in the past, but why not give it a try? Should I use bondo? Should I replace the panels (from junkyard parts)? Should I cut out the rusted areas and weld new material in its place? Etc. etc.?

Thanks for the help and discussion!

[HeLlRaZeR-HFH]

Originally Posted by termiflyer

I just bought a '95 F-250 that has quite a bit of rust around the wheel wells and bottom of the doors. I have two things that I would love some advice for:

(1) In the short term, I would like to slow or stop any further damage to the panels. Can you recommend how I would go about doing so?

(2) In the long term, I would like to repair or restore the panels, not in the sense of restoring a '67 mustang, but just to get rid of the rust. I haven't done any work like this in the past, but why not give it a try? Should I use bondo? Should I replace the panels (from junkyard parts)? Should I cut out the rusted areas and weld new material in its place? Etc. etc.?

Thanks for the help and discussion!

I don't know how much time and money your willing to spend but heres my sugestions from best to least.


Num 1. Repair what you got.
If the rust is only surface deep than I would suggest the best thing to do for looks and rust prevention in the long run would be to sand down the rust with a real fine grade sandpaper and applying some rust to primer converter in a spay can and sanding it again. Then getting some factory based paint the original color ( if you have an air compressor at least 50gal + a spray gun ) which their should be a sticker with the paint code on the side of your driver door or under the hood. And you'll have to get the base coat and clear coat separate so it will blend with the rest of your paint. And make sure to apply at least 3 coats of clear. Then she will shine like new again...
However I would say most local paint supply stores would charge anywhere from 40 to 60 dollars just for about half a gallon of the paint alone, without the clear coat and masking tape. If you can't get your hands on an air compressor then just get some touch up or have the paint supplier put your paint color in a spray can. however it will not look professional because it will be a base coat clear coat mixed together and won't blend with the rest of your paint quite as well.

Num 2. If the rust is deep
If the rust is so bad that its already eat your panels with holes than you can either get some All-metal which works just like bondo but way better, bondo has a very high chance of causing cracks and only last about 5 to 10 years at the extreme most, All-metal will still be there when your truck has rusted to the ground.. which your paint supplier should carry it. You have to put some kind of backing be hide the holes ( anything will work even cardboard but I would use sheet metal or some kind of metal plate ) and just mix a little bit of the hardener with the All-metal, the Hardener comes with the All-metal just so you know, Any way the best way to apply it is small thin coats at a time just like paint but sand it each time after it starts to harden up. Keep applying till you come out smooth with the rest of the body surface after sanding. And then just paint it to match. If you don't think you can do that, it really isn't that hard but if you cant than just replace the panels with junkyard parts or new. I would go with junkyard it would save a whole lot of money. And then just paint to match.
The All-metal cost about 30 to 50 dollars a can. then you have to get the paint materials, on the safe side I would say it will run you at least 100$ to 150$ to make your baby look like new. and depending wither or not you wanna use metal plates to put be hide the holes it will run more.. but you can really use anything as long as its flat.. use old metal plates off a mower or even rolled flashing will work which only cost like 10 bucks for 10" wide by 50 feet long.


Numb 3. Easy and cheap way to prevent rust.
If you just want a way to stop the rust then the simplest way would be to get some black Rubberized under coating in a spray can and cover at least 2 1/2 inch's from the edge of the rust.. it won't look pretty but it will stop the rust dead in its tracks and you will probably only need a few cans that might run you 20 bucks at the most. It is cheap, quick, last a very long time & saves your panels from any further rust. I recommend doing the whole under side of your truck with this even if not on the panels to prevent and major rust damage to your frame.


I assume your wanting to make it look original. if you are then you have to do either Number 1 or 2. Number 3 will work fine but it just won't look great. My dad is a body and paint man so I know all about this stuff so I can answer any further questions you might have if your going to try and make your truck look like new again. I can go into more detail for you if you are going to attempt to do it right. Good luck and is your truck XL or XLT? I'm a proud owner of a 95 XLT F-350 with a 7.3 Power Stroke Turbo Diesel engine. Smoothest + toughest truck I've ever drove or rode in.

[termiflyer]

HeLlRaZeR -

Thanks for that advice. Great stuff. My truck is an XL, F-250 with a 351. Pretty basic, but will get the job done.

As far as the degree of damage, I would call it on the "deep" side, in that the rust has gone all the way through. However, it's only about 1/2" up from the edge of the wheel wells (all four). Here's what I'm thinking based on what you said:

(1) I don't think I can finish the job "properly" (your recommendations 1 and 2) by the winter time. What I think I will do is grind down what I can, and then apply something like the Rubberized coating to get me through the winter. I'm not too worried about looks at this point, since I just want to get through to the spring without more damage. Follow-up question: (a) is the "Rubberized" coating you are talking about a 3M product like this http://www.autobarn.net/3munruunbl.html ? (b) is it feasible to buy this and apply to the undercarriage? (c) if I apply this to the undercarriage, should I just apply it to the frame?

(2) Spring time: grind away the Rubberized and follow your recommendation w/ All-Metal.

Should I go somewhere and get the truck "rust-proofed"? Or is applying something like Rubberized underneath good enough?

I'm also getting some surface rust on the back bumper. I was think of grinding it away and re-painting, but it has a diamond-plate like surface texture. I'm afraid the grinding might kill the texture of the bumper. Any suggestions for this are appreciated too.

Sorry for all the questions, but you've been a great help thusfar. The truck is actually in pretty good shape although my talk doesn't make it sound so. I just don't like imperfections!!

[HeLlRaZeR-HFH]

"Follow-up question: (a) is the "Rubberized" coating you are talking about a 3M product like this http://www.autobarn.net/3munruunbl.html ?"

Yes, that is it... however 3M is only one of many companies that make it. I've never used 3M's though I only use Mar-Hyde rubberized under coating http://www.bondo-online.com/catalog_...sp?itemNbr=484 which is the same identical stuff but only cost about 4 dollars A can compared to 12.95 for the 3M. You can get it pretty much in any hardware store like Ace Hardware or even A Wall-mart center if you have one of them where you live?

"(b) is it feasible to buy this and apply to the undercarriage?"

As long as your not flat broke I would say its pretty feasible... you shouldn't need anymore than 4 or 5 cans to do the whole underneath of your truck.

"(c) if I apply this to the undercarriage, should I just apply it to the frame?"

Good question, actually you can apply it anywhere you wanna prevent rust, except anything that gets hot like your exhaust system or your catalytic converter. So you'll want to mask them off unless you wanna have a nice burning rubber smell when your truck heats up lol...You don't really have to worry about masking the bolts to your transmission pan or any other bolts because its just rubber you can use a sharp utility knife and just cut it out if you need to take them out and then just put a little over them when they are back on. It won't hurt your wiring connections at all either to cover them with it. Best thing to do.

As far as getting your truck rust-proofed somewhere, Thats not a bad idea but to be honest they are just gonna do the same thing your about to. You will save a lot of money if you do it yourself.

And the rust on your back bumper.. you don't want to grind it unless its really bad and you said its just surface. Also you said you wanted to re-paint it.. So all you need to do is get some rust to primer converter in a spray can, I recommend Rust-Oleum http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=26&SBL=1 its the best $h!t to use when it comes to painting over rust. Make sure to apply at least 2 coats and using a very fine high-grade sandpaper sand it lightly between coats.. And you ready to paint it w/e color you want too.

I hope my input is useful and any further questions you might have or if I wasn't quite detailed enough just post them here and I'll be happy to oblige. Good luck..

[termiflyer]

Your feedback has been VERY helpful so far. Thanks!!

I want to apply the Rubberized undercoating to the undercarriage, but was wondering what the best way to address the surface rust on the frame. It sounded like you could use a "rust to primer" converter, but I was wondering if I can wire brush the rust off so I have a nice clean surface to work with?

What kind of wire brush tool would you use? I have a compressor but no tools yet and was wondering if I should get an angle grinder with some sort of wire brush attachment to do this type of thing. You can tell I haven't done this sort of thing before!!

If I did did brush it down, should I apply a coat of primer before the Rubberized?

THanks again!!