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#1
10-15-2004, 09:54 PM
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Red Lineing
HI my name is rip i have a 94 SL, and tonight i was racing a car and i redlined from a start. I was wondering if this is bad for the engine. if so what can break. AND HOW CAN I STOP ITS ADDICTIvE PLEASE HELP ME STOP I WANT TO KEEP MY CAr FOR EVER. and also would a shift kit help me stop redlineing as much. TY -rip
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#2
10-15-2004, 11:32 PM
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Hi Rip....are you by any chance related to Ripper? as in Ripper Owens, former lead singer of Judas Priest? j/k.
well no redlining wont break your car, its not a Kia so it can take it. also Redline is defined as "the highest safe point the engine car rev" se the key word there is "safe". do note two things though. 1. your car makes 222 hp at 6500 rpms stock. 2. cars get old and as they do they need more care. so you see I find it pointless to rev to 7000rpms when you make more then enough power at 6500. and if you redline your car or accept to race every single punk that wants a piece of you.....well then the car wont last very long at all. Take it from a guy who is as addicted if not more than you. and also I have blown engines so I can tell you what not to do from experience. Use good oil, if you can buy it at pepboys or autozone chances are its not the best. I recomend Motul, Royal Purple or Redline oil. all add hp and protect even under extreme abuse. Mobil 1 syntetic is also the best over the counter oil ya can get. Buy a shift light and program it to 6500, this is where your peak hp is. have you ever seen a dyno chart for your car? I have. power actually drops after 6500, so why rev higher? shift at peak hp. and dont race every single punk who tries you. dont race on hot hummid days, dont race from light to light. only race when you feel its worth it and do it cautiously. I raced a tiburon not too long ago and I can tell you unless one pulls up with a turbo or SC I wont ever race another tibi cause I already know what they can do and how much I can spank em....see? no need to race every punk who want to waste my gas and time.
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 06 GTO: SLP Longtubes, SLP Loudmouth II K&N intake, Ported Intake Manifold, Ported Throttle body, MAF screen delete. Tunned by Jeremy Formato. 381whp, 376wtq. 07 Ion Redline: Bone stock w/ factory Competition package. In response to a race my wife had while pregnant with our baby: Quote:
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#5
10-16-2004, 02:15 AM
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well actually, on the shifting, you wanna shift a little bit after peak hp, not right at peak hp, yes, your curve starts to go back down after peak hp, but when you shift, if you shift too early, you will get down too low of an rpm which is less power than just slightly above max hp. As they say, the powerband for our cars is between 5-7K rpms, so try to stay inside of that as much as possible when it comes to racing.
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black 3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black Intake & Boost Controller so far 2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods
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#6
10-16-2004, 07:48 AM
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Re: Red Lineing
Ill stick with shifting at 7800
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#7
10-16-2004, 10:51 AM
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Re: Re: Red Lineing
Quote:
now thats what i'm talking about a lot of people will do a turbo upgrade that produces a lot of extra hp at rpm levels higher than 7K on our car, so people will install high-rev springs and get the rev limiter moved up higher or removed so they can get the extra power up top. This is especially essential when you have a turbo with lots of lag.
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black 3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black Intake & Boost Controller so far 2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods
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#8
10-16-2004, 11:34 AM
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^ well yeas, if you start modding and stuff then your power chart is bound to change but as for stock its just safer to shift at reline or even a couple of hundred revs before 7000. but yeah even at red its still safe. I'd still recomend shifting at 6500 until one becomes comfortable with that kind of driving.
Slade, my lights are not foggy. I heard that there was a year when our cars had glass covers instead of lexan. does anyone know which year that was? As for the fogging up.......well I think you have to actually oven roast them to open them up and clean em from insaide. there was a great step by step explanation on how to do that somewhere around here.
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06 GTO: SLP Longtubes, SLP Loudmouth II K&N intake, Ported Intake Manifold, Ported Throttle body, MAF screen delete. Tunned by Jeremy Formato. 381whp, 376wtq. 07 Ion Redline: Bone stock w/ factory Competition package. In response to a race my wife had while pregnant with our baby: Quote:
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#12
10-18-2004, 11:14 AM
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STRAIGHT! then yes mine is a 94, no wonder after 11 years and the freaking lights have not pealed, but they are not foggy either so I guess I'm lucky huh?
__________________
06 GTO: SLP Longtubes, SLP Loudmouth II K&N intake, Ported Intake Manifold, Ported Throttle body, MAF screen delete. Tunned by Jeremy Formato. 381whp, 376wtq. 07 Ion Redline: Bone stock w/ factory Competition package. In response to a race my wife had while pregnant with our baby: Quote:
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