Metro LSI Blowing Fuse

Galleon · #1 10-12-2004, 12:46 PM

Does anyone have a clue what I should be looking for? Everytime you engage the car in drive it blows a fuse. I have checked through the wiring but cannot see what the cause is. Any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.

You can reply here or just email me at [email protected]

Thanks in advance
Galleon

Mike_Van · #2 10-13-2004, 11:13 AM

which engine?
what year?
which fuse blows?
any other electrical problems? (do all accessories work when you're in PARK?)

Galleon · #3 10-13-2004, 11:52 AM

2000
Metro LSi 4 Door Sedan
4 cylinder

Yes, all electrical works fine. but when you engade through Neutral at a normal speed it blows the fuse which is labled BRAKE. You can still drive the vehicle after that, but if you put it into park, that is is. It will not come out of park until you replace the fuse.

Thanks
Galleon

Mike_Van · #4 10-14-2004, 02:43 PM

It sounds like something to do with the shift-lock mechanism (which requires stepping on the brake to get out of park), but I'm not well-informed about auto-transmissions, especially the electronic governance thereof. Sorry.

Just to be clear, after the Brake fuse blows, do only the brake lights fail to operate, or is there some other symptom, like brakes not working as well (vaccum boost affected)?

Galleon · #5 10-15-2004, 08:37 AM

Well the brake lights don't work and if you put the car back into park at that point, you cannot get it out of park until the fuse is replaced. Besides that, everything else seems ok.

jeraldm · #6 01-03-2005, 05:28 PM

My 2000 Metro (1.3L) also started blowing a fuse recently. The 15 amp fuse controls turn signals and also will not allow the auto transmission to be moved from park. The local chevy dealer said to replace the fuse block at a cost of around $300. I think it is just a bare wire or short but don't know how best to repair it. What would you suggest..replace the fuse block, taking the car to an auto electrical specialty store, or what?

Galleon · #7 01-03-2005, 08:08 PM

I would suggest taking it to an electrician to have it done, unless you are comfortable replacing it yourself. I had several suggestions as to what the cause and the solution can be that causes this, but opted for my solution........ I traded the vehicle in on a new vehicle

aquawicket · #8 07-28-2005, 07:03 PM

I have a much similar problem with my 1996 Geo Metro... It constantly blows the (Backup light, turn signal light) fuse... When that happens the car will not come out of park until the fuse is replaced... When i replace the fuse and it blows while i'm driving, the car looses accelleration.. I can litteraly put the gas to the floor but it will accelerate very slowly, Feel's almost like a clutch that does not grab to good but this car is automatic tran..

Everything works great as long as the fuse stays good. But now it blows all the time. Any ideas...

richvero · #9 07-31-2005, 01:01 PM

I have the exact problem with my 92 Metro LSI. Shifting from park to neutral seems to be the sequence that blows the fuse. I've disconnected the backup lights, the solenoid that unlocks the gear shift knob and the turn signals, but the car still blows the fuse when shifting from Park to Neutral. I've tried from Park to Reverse and it does not blow the fuse. Unfortunately you can't go from Park to Drive without passing Neutral. The loss of power seems to be from the transmission no longer changing gears when the fuse is blown. Seems like the AutoTrans (auto shifting only) no longer functions without the fuse. If you manually shift from L to 2 to D then the power is the same. So does the Geo have something special about it's transmission that needs power for it to shift?

richvero · #10 07-31-2005, 02:44 PM

Follow-up!

I've traced the problem and I believe it is the "Back-up and Neutral Safety Switch" that is causing the fuse to blow. When this device is not powered then the fuse does not blow and the turn signals, the gear shift lock, and the backup lights work fine. I checked with Kragen and the part is about $100!! I find that if I shift rapidly from R to D while stopped and not stopping at N for any length of time the fuse does not blow. If I hesitate at all at N then the fuse blows. I am going to forgo getting this switch replaced and look into getting another car. What a piece of junk.

shecouldbme · #11 09-19-2005, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Galleon

Does anyone have a clue what I should be looking for? Everytime you engage the car in drive it blows a fuse. I have checked through the wiring but cannot see what the cause is. Any ideas or help will be greatly appreciated.

You can reply here or just email me at [email protected]

Thanks in advance
Galleon

My daughter is having a similar problem with her Geo Metro....it keeps blowing the fuse to the fuel pump? Any Ideas?? Would appreciate some help on this....she needs it running...with the gas prices

geozukigti · #12 09-20-2005, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shecouldbme

My daughter is having a similar problem with her Geo Metro....it keeps blowing the fuse to the fuel pump? Any Ideas?? Would appreciate some help on this....she needs it running...with the gas prices

Check this thread, your problem has been covered before

Fairly rare one, but it happens.

irwinx · #13 09-24-2005, 07:18 PM

I just had my park/neutral safety switch replaced at $141 for the part, and $38 for the labor, thanks for all the postings in this thread, it really helped me figure out why the "REAR" fuse kept blowing out while I had the car in "D" for 5 minutes. after withc the turn signals would not work, and you couldent shift the car out of park

handypat · #14 10-02-2005, 07:39 PM

I Just solved this fuse blowing situation on my 2000 metro. The fuse was for the turn signals. I found there were wires shorting out on top of the trans axle (automatic). The clue was being locked in park. The wiring diagram I used did not show the locking solenoid for the shifter (actuated by the brake pedal) so I had to start pulling and tracing wires. I found the shorting wires on the harness on top of the trans axle on the battery side of the engine compartment. A little spray cleaner revealed the insulation had worn through right under where the metal tangs holding the wire to the trans axle. A little tape on the three bare spots on the wires did the trick. (actually I used a lot of tape)
I hope this is helpful.

Tiggr · #15 10-05-2005, 08:16 AM

For those of you that trace the problem to the neutral safety switch, you may be able to avoid buying a new one. I took mine apart and cleaned it (degreaser and wire brush the contacts) and it solved my problem.

If you decide to try it, the switch has a spring and ball bearing inside that will fall out when you take it apart, so be careful. It's pretty easy to get back together.

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