96 Camry V6 LE: power windows dying

[kman10587]

My driver's side power window will sometimes not roll down or up, sometimes it will. It seems to have random bouts of failure that last about 15 sec., but then it will start working again. Anyone else had this problem with a 3rd gen.?

[kman10587]

No one else had this problem?

[Daniel M. Dreifus]

Try silicone spray or Tri-flow in the window guide side channels

[xpmagician]

i have this problem also but i couldn't find any way to fix it can any one help?

[gator86]

isn't there a function on the drivers side switch that rolls the window all the way down when you depress it fully?? maybe that would explain why it lasts only 15 secs?? just a thought.

[mydunbar]

My 1995 Camry had similar symptoms, it turned out to be the master switch that had failed, got replacement from salvage yard for $75. Dealer wants $350 for new one. Seems logical that drivers window would fail first because that switch would get much more use than the other switches.

[rob3]

Originally Posted by mydunbar

My 1995 Camry had similar symptoms, it turned out to be the master switch that had failed, got replacement from salvage yard for $75. Dealer wants $350 for new one. Seems logical that drivers window would fail first because that switch would get much more use than the other switches.

I have got the same problem with my 96 drivers side window. I was able to get it back up by hitting the switch many times before it finally went up. All other windows and locks work fine so I believe the switch is the problem. I assume you mean the switch right there on the door handle. How did you get it removed?

[mydunbar]

To remove the master window switch (the driver's swith panel is on the door that controls door locks and has a button for each of the four windows) you must:
First remove the door panel. On my 1995 Camry there are two screws to the right of the door handle that are covered by plastic covers. I use a tool designed to remove those plastic fastners. The tool looks like a an extremely wide flat head screw driver with the last inch and half bent at a 45% angle and the tip split into a "V". You can of course just use a flathead screwdriver. There is another screw hidden by a plactic cover on the bottomside of the arm rest. There is a screw in a recessed hole to the left of the previos screw. There are also two plastic push-pin fastners on the edge of the panel near where the door engages the srike plate. Along the bottom edge of the panel are three or four plastic fastners that can be pried away. The door handle has plastic trim around it that must be removed. You can slide it backward a little then gently pry the plastic trim from its upper and lower pivot points.
After door panel is removed disconnect the master switch electrical connecter. There is a safety notch to push to release the connector. Now you are working with just the panel. There are three philips screws that work to secure a metal clip to switch assembly. Remove the screws and the switch will come come out. Installation is the opposite of removal. I would connect the new switch then test operation before putting the door panel back on the door.
Hope this helps....

[rob3]

Thanks.