Fule Injector and Rocker Arms

[mihasya]

#1.

for some reason my malibu started to leak ani freez into the engine because the lower intake manifold was loose and the gasket was broken.

#2.

after taking apart the upper intake manifold and then lower intake manifold i had to remove the Rocker Arms to free the Old gasket and install the new ones.

Problem: i srewed the order of the rocker arms for the far side of the engine by accidently dropping them . the good news i sort of memorized the order but still not sure after all the hassle with the malibu.

Order Of Roker Arms:

Long,Short,Short,Long,Short,Long
Long, Short, Long,Short,Short,Long

can you give me the correct order if this is wrong please?

#3. i have put the egine together and tightend the lower and upper intake manifold main bolts 25 pounds.

egine stars everything works fine now nothing shaking no rattles drive car for two days and fuel injectors start to spit fuel out all off suddon. why? ok i replace the O'rings on the fuel injectors . ok . with high RPM it spits fuel out again. why? im stuck now since the original problem was not the fuel injectors spitting fuel out but the loose lower intake manifold that spit out ati freeze into engine and out side.

btw: the oil wasnt milky i cought the problem early. and nothing overheated. main main issue was the thermastat was too old created pressure all replaced but too late now issue with fuel injectors.

thanks.


97' Chevy Malibu 3.1 L LS 90,000 miles

[mihasya]

any one can help with this? i have already took the fuel injector system apart 6 times in past week lookin for problem then putting it back together and failing the test.

could the Push Rod + rocker arm order screw this up? if yes then why is the engine running without any stutters nor shakes any screw up with timing and miss firing will shut engine down or do these chevies have some wierd system where if you missplace the push rod rocker arm's all that happens is the fuel injector spray fuel out because of pressure.

and please if anyone knows the Push rod order please.

[bearcatdon]

1) I believe all the rocker arms are the same but you want to match the rocker and pushrod because they have worn into each other.

2) The exhaust pushrod is the long ones 6". Intake is 5 3/4". In the future, push the pushrods through a box the same way they came out. Make sure you ID front of engine on the box. Put all rockers in a plastic bag with the cylinder number. Label as they are removed.

3) Make sure that all injectors are fully seated and the oiled o-rings are in the block when you install the fuel rail. I even oiled the injector hole
in the block with a swab when I did mine.

Wish I could help more.

[mihasya]

Originally Posted by bearcatdon

1) I believe all the rocker arms are the same but you want to match the rocker and pushrod because they have worn into each other.

2) The exhaust pushrod is the long ones 6". Intake is 5 3/4". In the future, push the pushrods through a box the same way they came out. Make sure you ID front of engine on the box. Put all rockers in a plastic bag with the cylinder number. Label as they are removed.

3) Make sure that all injectors are fully seated and the oiled o-rings are in the block when you install the fuel rail. I even oiled the injector hole
in the block with a swab when I did mine.

Wish I could help more.

I went to Dealers and purchased the O-ring kit that worked great instead of the kragen 2 per box that didn’t hold any pressure -ridiculous. The dealer told me same thing regarding the push rods and seems that I installed them in correct order just don’t think I put each one in its original place since I dropped them without labeling. Been driving the car for three days and no gas leak detected yet. You mentioned oiling up the o-ring's, wish I read this earlier but I believe the kit was oiled up a bit wish I could of oiled them up a little bit more.


Well thanks for the info it helped settle all my questions .

[mihasya]

car is eating gas like crazy now but now leaks no stutters could this be because i misplaced the pushrods even if they are in correct order just switched them? is it possible that i put them in wrong order but engine is running?i assume when gas is release instead it opens exhaust valve it wouldnt work


could it be my car is running on 3 cylinders and smoothly with lack of power and eating gas????

[bearcatdon]

Got me beat. Everything your talking about or the consumption of extra gas should make the engine run rough at one point or another. This should give you a rich O2 sensor reading which would illuminate the engine light.
Even if you get an O2 reading it can be anything from a bad or disconnected vaccuum hose, injector wire issues, dirty air filter, the list goes on and on.

[bearcatdon]

Originally Posted by mihasya

#3. i have put the egine together and tightend the lower and upper intake manifold main bolts 25 pounds.

I just reread this from your original post. These are the torque specs. and order you're suppose to follow compliments of someone else's posting....sry I don't have the posting just the bulletin. It is crucial that the diagonals are done last.

Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 7N•m (62 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 7N•m(62 lb in).
Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 13N•m(115 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 25N•m(18 lb ft).

[mihasya]

Originally Posted by bearcatdon

I just reread this from your original post. These are the torque specs. and order you're suppose to follow compliments of someone else's posting....sry I don't have the posting just the bulletin. It is crucial that the diagonals are done last.

Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 7N•m (62 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 7N•m(62 lb in).
Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (1) to 13N•m(115 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2) to 25N•m(18 lb ft).

i have gotten the steps from chilton book for malibu regarding the 25 pounds. and you are correct its wrong i hear a hissing sound for couple seconds when i stop the engine. i will retighten the bolts.

just frustrated with gas consumption and the mystery of engine running quite having this problem, i feel loss of power, like im driving on 4 cyliders. ill have to replace the gas tank filter maybe i will see difference then.


thanks for reply

[bearcatdon]

My guess is that you’re dumping gas into your oil that would explain no O2 reading. In all honesty, I would change out the gasket again. It may now be damaged and tightening may not fix it and you'll end up doing it again. I also added serviceable locktite on the top 3-5 bolt threads above the pipe dope. Definitely, change your oil.
Personally, I'm a Haynes man. I haven't bought another Chilton since my first Haynes purchase. The specs in my book are 115 lower intake 18 upper intake. GM revised them to stop the intake from lifting off the gasket. I torqued the diagonal at 200 instead of 216....I didn't have the cohunes to go any higher.

[mihasya]

Originally Posted by bearcatdon

My guess is that you’re dumping gas into your oil that would explain no O2 reading. In all honesty, I would change out the gasket again. It may now be damaged and tightening may not fix it and you'll end up doing it again. I also added serviceable locktite on the top 3-5 bolt threads above the pipe dope. Definitely, change your oil.
Personally, I'm a Haynes man. I haven't bought another Chilton since my first Haynes purchase. The specs in my book are 115 lower intake 18 upper intake. GM revised them to stop the intake from lifting off the gasket. I torqued the diagonal at 200 instead of 216....I didn't have the cohunes to go any higher.

it should be a heck of a leak with the amount of gas is used up i will test out and check to see if i detect any gas in the engine. my push rod installation was correct based on diagram.

Exhaust pushrod is the long ones 6". Intake is 5 3/4".
E=exhaust
I=Intake

E-I-E-I-I-E
E-I-I-E-I-E


thanks for info