89 Camry - Revving, Bucking and Stalling

[DazedAndConfused]

Hey everyone. New to the forums, but this place looks like a great resource. I've already read through a few threads that sound like they're kind of similar to the problem I'm experiencing. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to mechanical issues, so I apologize in advance if I'm asking stupid questions, but any help/advice you can provide would be much appreciated.

So here goes. About 3 months ago, a friend of a friend sold me an 89 Camry, 5spd, with about 150k miles on it. It had a recently rebuilt and slightly rough transmission, the AC didn't work and it went through oil a bit quickly, but other than that, it ran well enough. Fairly soon after I got it, though, I noticed that the throttle seemed to stick open or something. Often, when I would slow down or come to a stop, the engine would continue to rev as though I had my foot on the gas. If I didn't have the clutch in, it would actually hold it's speed, almost as if the cruise control was on. The only way to get it to stop was to push in the clutch and tap the gas. In addition, every now and then it would buck when I tried to accelerate, like it didn't want to take the gas. The way to stop that is to push the clutch in and rev it up for a second, then let the clutch out while still revving. This would most often happen at speed, but occasionally when first starting the car as well, in which case even the clutch trick wouldn't work and it would often stall. It's worth noting that the problem seems to get worse when the fuel tank drops below half.

I've taken it to three different mechanics, but no one can tell me what the problem is. The first guy said the throttle body was gunked up, so he cleaned that and it seemed to help for about two weeks, but never fully corrected the problem. The next guy said he couldn't figure it out, but he lowered the timing to make the revving at least seem less severe. The third guy just shook his head and did nothing.

So, any ideas? I'm kind of running out of options, and it seems to be getting worse.

[Brian R.]

I'm not sure from your description, but if you don't have your "Check Engine" light on, it might be your throttle cable is sticking. Try putting some teflon spray in the end of the throttle cable and working it in by moving the gas pedal.

Also, check to see if the throttle operates smoothly. It should. If it doesn't, do a better cleaning on the throttle body.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...throttle_body/

If your "Check Engine" light is on, get the codes from the computer. They will help you make a diagnosis of the source of the problem.

[Daniel M. Dreifus]

get a different car. early camrys are inexpensive.
1) don't buy a car from a friend
2) don't buy a car with "rebuilt components" like engine or transmission (if they're well cared for, the originals last a long, long time.
Sorry to say this, but sounds like someone unloaded their problems on you.
What you want to find, is a car that has original components and has received tender loving care, not neglected and poor condition
3) using oil is not a good sign, unless the usage is small
Why spend more money on a car that already runs rough and three mechanics can't solve. Find one that has been well cared for by the owner.

[Brian R.]

The repairs and diagnosis I recommended cost nothing. Try them.

[Mike Gerber]

Do what Brian suggested. Especially read the link on throttle body cleaning and then do this yourself. I too believe this is your problem. These are things you can do yourself for free. I do the throttle body cleaning once a year on all 3 of my cars.

Mike

[DazedAndConfused]

Thanks guys. I have a feeling it may come down to just cleaning that throttle body every few weeks, which doesn't seem normal, but if it solves the problem, what the heck, right? I just wanted to check here to see if there might be some systemic problem that could be behind the symptoms. To answer your question, Brian, no, the check engine light doesn't come on, and when the mechanic hooked it up to the diagnostic computer, it came back clean. There's just the physical symptoms.

Oh, and Daniel, I definitely agree. I never would have bought the car under ordinary circumstances, but my friend basically gave it to me for free. $200 is all he asked me for it, even though he could have gotten a fair bit more elsewhere, since he knew I needed a car and was kind of broke. I figured even if I had to put another $500 into it, it would be worth it.

As for cleaning the throttle body, I'm a bit of a mechanical dope, as I mentioned, but that website you linked looked pretty clear, so I'll give it a shot myself. Two questions though:

1) When you say "check to see if the throttle operates smoothly", how do I do that? Do I just put the emergency break on, put it in neutral, and have someone press the gas up and down while I watch the cable move in and out?

2) Also, I forgot to mention that when I first start the car, it idles really high for about 2 minutes, then gradually comes to a normal level. If I give it that 2 minutes, the symptoms I described earlier aren't quite as bad. Anything I should look for when I'm under the hood to see that happening? Like, will the throttle be stuck slightly open at first or something?

Anyway, thanks again guys. Here's hoping it works!

- Matt

[Brian R.]

Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused

Thanks guys. I have a feeling it may come down to just cleaning that throttle body every few weeks, which doesn't seem normal, but if it solves the problem, what the heck, right?

Do it once right and you may never have to do it again.

Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused

1) When you say "check to see if the throttle operates smoothly", how do I do that? Do I just put the emergency break on, put it in neutral, and have someone press the gas up and down while I watch the cable move in and out?

With the engine off, just rotate the throttle butterfly with your hand. Should be smooth. If it binds or is rough, it is either the cable or the throttle body. Most likely the cable.

Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused

2) Also, I forgot to mention that when I first start the car, it idles really high for about 2 minutes, then gradually comes to a normal level. If I give it that 2 minutes, the symptoms I described earlier aren't quite as bad. Anything I should look for when I'm under the hood to see that happening? Like, will the throttle be stuck slightly open at first or something?

What is really high 4000 rpm? 2000 rpm? 1500 rpm?

[DazedAndConfused]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

What is really high 4000 rpm? 2000 rpm? 1500 rpm?

Hmm, I don't know actually. There's no tachometer on the car. It just sounds louder than normal, as though I have my foot slightly on the gas or something. It's not "wake up the neighbors" loud, just louder than other cars I've driven. Any way for me to find out the actual RPM without a dashboard tachometer?

[Brian R.]

Louder than normal is ok. Ignore it. Next time you bring it to a mechanic, ask him to check your fast idle.

[Bossman]

Just as a basic preventative maintenance thing, change your fuel filter. Then, after that, by all means proceed as outlined by Brian R. and others. Hope you get it running right.