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#1 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2001
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Snow
so it finally snowed here in TO. this was my first time driving in the snow with my teg as well. shouldn't take long to get used to.
for those of you who have to drive their good cars (ie. your suped up H's and A's) during the winter, what preventative measures do you take to keep the salt and dirt from messing up the underbody? my car is undercoated and rust-proofed, and i have winter wheels as well. can anybody offer anything else? thanks for any help. |
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#2 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2001
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my car is pretty stock but if you hav adjustable suspension you could raise up higher so you won't act like a snow plow, hit anyhting, or get high centered. just a thought though.....
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92 Acura Integra RS B18A is the bizzam PH refugee AF Nordic Crew #004 Warning: The Surgeon General says it's OK to smoke V-8's. |
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#3 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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yah, that's a problem
is it okay to use the sports, stiffer suspension during summer etc., while in winter put the stock suspension back on? or would it wear out the coils? |
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#4 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2001
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Only thing you can do is to park your car in a heated garage, if you have one, so this way calcium don't have much time to attack your underbody...
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#5 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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#6 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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and three days later, the snow is all gone
makeup your mind already ... |
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#7 | ||
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AF Regular
Join Date: May 2001
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Quote:
If you're talking about putting the car in a heated garage, leaving it there and not driving it for the winter, I apologize. Salt needs two things to oxidize metal. It needs heat, and it needs moisture. Therefore, as long as the temperature remains below freezing, you don't need to wash your car, it won't be rusting. Go to Krown or some other place the does oilspraying, and get your car rustproofed once a year. Oil displaces moisture. No moisture, no rust. So, park outside, or don't drive it. Oil it. If you have to drive it, wash it whenever it gets warm. My oilsprayed 1992 NX2000 is occasionally driven in the winter, oilsprayed religiously, washed once a week, and has no rust |
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#8 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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damn.,..yesterday i saw a car so lowered that it took a minute for it to go over a speed bump...stupid ricers
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#9 | ||
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#10 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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i've never seen that before |
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#11 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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i see that all the time. usually, i get stuck behind these door knobs. ![]() |
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#12 | |
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AF Newbie
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To wash or not to wash, to garage or not to garage, those are the questions.
There is a school of thought that says if it is cold enough, do not wash or garage your car, as the freezing temps will keep the water frozen, and thus rust will not be able to generate. I personally disagree with this theory, the main reason being that the engine bay, exhaust system, and cabin of your car gets warm or even hot when you drive, regardless of how cold it is outside, so rust will at least be able to form in those regions bordering the aforementioned areas. My personal regimen for preventing rust is to wax at least four times a year (esp. just before and just after winter), get rustproofed yearly, and wash your car every chance you get. I am lucky in that I have a really cool indoor do it yoursef car wash near me, which is basically a big building with roll-up doors on either end, and nice, warm, indoor wash bays inside. Mmmmm. I go there at least once a week during the winter, and bring my own soap, bucket, mitts and chamois. I only use their sprayer - I don't trust their soap or their scrub brushes. Make sure you spray EVERYWHERE to wash away that salt. In the summer I hand wash once to twice a week in my driveway... Lots of work, but your car will thank you for it. My $0.02, CDN... ![]() Oh yea, I also run Nokian Hakkapaletta NRW snow tires on the stock alloys in the winter. Steels would be better (less chance of slow leaks from corrosion at the bead, cheaper to replace if bent sliding into a curb), but I had the alloys to use, so I did, plus they look much better than steels...
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CDN '99 Civic SiR AF Nordic Crew #15 |
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