1999 escort no start then start

[chevyn0va1]

My car has been problematic. Seems after a high speed run on the highway for extented time (well longer then my normal in town driving) and along with damp/raining days my car will just crank with no spark nor will it fire up. When this no start condition happens I have tried to spray carb cleaner down the throttle body to no avail and also I have put a spark plug in a random plug wire boot no spark. However if I let it sit for 1/2 hour it starts fine and I can drive for days. until it happens again.

I have taken it to a dealer the morning after a no start day and they "put it on the computer" for 89.00 to tell me nothing was wrong. This problem has happend 4 times after they told me nothing was wrong. (plugs and wires were overdue and should be replaced which I have done) I understand the fact they cant find the problem if the car is running but isnt there some other way to check the car out? no codes are coming back to the computer.

btw this is on a 1999 ford escort se 2.0 ltr 5 speed. with 80,000 miles.
currently i have replaced the battery, tune up, fuel filter, coil pack, control module computer.

**update** I just replaced the crank sensor to see if that helps.

[b18lsvtec]

Only thing I can think of in this matter is to change your spark plug wires and spark plugs. You could have a faulty battery too. Make sure you have good gas and oil in the car. I know this stuff gets to be a pain in the Arse. Good luck man.

[chevyn0va1]

yes thanks I did that first and it didnt help. so far after changing the crank sensor seems to help been almost a week now

[ZX2000]

Originally Posted by b18lsvtec

Only thing I can think of in this matter is to change your spark plug wires and spark plugs. You could have a faulty battery too. Make sure you have good gas and oil in the car. I know this stuff gets to be a pain in the Arse. Good luck man.

do you read posts or do you just ramble on..... go drive your honda.

have you checked the alternator or did ford do that when you took it to the dealership? also, check the battery connections for corrosion and cables for bare wire or just replace the cables altogether. ford does not look at that stuff they just do diagnostics.... if that doesn't work i may be able to think of a few other things....

[chevyn0va1]

zx2 thanks for the tips I have checked the battery (replaced it only because it was a factory battery over 5 yrs) and cleaned the cable ends really well even the ground points. Tightend nicely. What is the best way to test the alternator at home I have used the voltmeter and that indicates it is increasing the voltage higher then the battery (in fact voltage was higher after the new battery install) You know even after I did all this I just mentioned the car still had issues.

[b18lsvtec]

Forgive me for rambling, and forgive me for coming into the escort scene. Just figured I would help out owners in need of help. Since you inadvertently are trying to bash me, I guess ill word in a bit. First off, I dont drive a honda. I drive a 1993 Non turbo targa
mark4 supra. My knowledge is in straight 6 2jz-Ge motor, im terribly sorry my intelligence is too great for some of you.

[chevyn0va1]

Originally Posted by chevyn0va1

My car has been problematic. Seems after a high speed run on the highway for extented time (well longer then my normal in town driving) and along with damp/raining days my car will just crank with no spark nor will it fire up. When this no start condition happens I have tried to spray carb cleaner down the throttle body to no avail and also I have put a spark plug in a random plug wire boot no spark. However if I let it sit for 1/2 hour it starts fine and I can drive for days. until it happens again.

I have taken it to a dealer the morning after a no start day and they "put it on the computer" for 89.00 to tell me nothing was wrong. This problem has happend 4 times after they told me nothing was wrong. (plugs and wires were overdue and should be replaced which I have done) I understand the fact they cant find the problem if the car is running but isnt there some other way to check the car out? no codes are coming back to the computer.

btw this is on a 1999 ford escort se 2.0 ltr 5 speed. with 80,000 miles.
currently i have replaced the battery, tune up, fuel filter, coil pack, control module computer.

**update** I just replaced the crank sensor to see if that helps.

Update #2 crank sensor didnt help This am I went to start the car got no spark just cranking away. I checked voltage at injectors and the voltage is there. I check for spark out of the coil no spark. I check the voltage to the coil with the three prong wire clip the wire in the middle had voltage but the coil wasnt spitting it out. I went and tried another coil and still no start. (or spark for that matter) I just made an appointment to bring it to an car electronic service station hopefully that will be the end of this drama this is supposed to be the best guy in RI thats why I have to wait till next wednsday.

[Jet-Lee]

Tried cam sensor? I know when I left mine unplugged...hehe...It was hard starting and fun running. Just a thought.

[chevyn0va1]

Originally Posted by Jet-Lee

Tried cam sensor? I know when I left mine unplugged...hehe...It was hard starting and fun running. Just a thought.

Any idea where it would be on my 99 2.0 5 spped sohc motor?

[Jet-Lee]

lol...yeah, I got the same thing, 'cept LX model instead of SE....If you follow your fuel rail to the end opposite your crank sensor (towards your air filter) it will go right into your head at the end...kinda hard to see. You have to take off your intake manifold to change it, but to connect/disconnect it, you don't. Let me know how it goes.

[chevyn0va1]

Are you sure about the manifold I looked at my haynes book and just says something about a bolt and an o ring. I think I found it and I unplugged and replugged it but its still not starting. Would a cam sensor make a no fire/start condidtion?

[Jet-Lee]

yeah, pretty sure. I haven't done it myself, but it is kinda long (the sensor itself), Haynes tends to leave "minor" details out, I've noticed. Like, for changing your intake manifold gasket, it doesn't mention that you have to remove EVERYTHING from the firewall directly behind the manifold (all that EGR stuff). Sorry it didn't work, only other thing I could think of is your PCM (it controls your ignition timing).

[chevyn0va1]

I havent replaced it yet seems to be only $13.00 at napa so i may just try it anyhow. Ever hear of a full function module? cost me 191.00 that was replaced a while ago. it controls fuel and spark and the fan too. pcm just sounds expenceive-lol Normally in a no start mode the car only needs an hour and its all set been that long already and still hasnt started up this morning.

[Jet-Lee]

I don't know exactly what the PCM is (read it in the Haynes manual, that spark timing is determined by it {PCM, I imagine it stands for Primary Control Module}). That very well could have been what you replaced. Lets see.....all fuses ok? I assume since you took it to a dealer, all your sensors are fine, otherwise they would have noticed. hmmm...crap dude, I don't what to tell ya. I'll see what some friend mechanics say.

[chevyn0va1]

the dealer said nothing wrong the very next morning i had the same problem. the dealer wanted to re charge me the 89.00 to look at it again. I told them to go **** themselves. BTW just now about 3:15 pm the car started on its own. But I did buy the cam sensor although I didnt put it in yet.