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| Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music. |
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#1
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Advice on system
I just bought a 2004 chevy cavalier 2 dr coupe and was wondering what the best system I could get is for my budget. Im wondering if I should replace the stock speakers first or if I can go right to a better headunit, amp, and a sub without replacing the stock speakers. I will eventually replace the stock speakers. Im looking to spend about $550-600(or maybe a little more) on a headunit, amp, and a sub. I dont know if that would be enough for a good system or not but I want something thats loud and has good quality to it.
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#2
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Re: Advice on system
I am assuming that none of the speakers are blown. If so replace the radio,then add an amp, or an amp and sub. Then replace the speakers. The factory speakers can handle more power than the factory radio provides. If you set the gains properly and the xover you can get some life out of those speakers till you can afford to get something better.
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1999 Corvette coupe 600rwhp and way too much stuff to list everything here. Audio Pioneer AVH P7500 DVD w/xm 2 PG Ti 600.2 1 PG TiDEQ Stinger battery,alternator,wire,cap,fuse blocks 1 JL 12w6v2 1 7" monitor in rear MB Quart 8" 4" and tweet in each door Custom fiberglass,plexiglas, and aluminum amp rack carbon fiber sub enclosure |
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#3
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why would you amp the stock speakers? the stock speakers on my accord were 15rms.. they would start distorting at around 65% volume.. and you want to amp them.. not a BAD idea.. i just dont see the point.. because if you buy a LOC what kind of input voltage would you be getting to the amp? 4v? 3v? and if you did that.. and you amp wha tlike 60rms x 4 then after setting the gain to accommodate a 4v input they would be giving out 60 whole rms im sure that the stock speakers can not take 60rms..
i say u start with a head unit.. sooner or later your stock speakers will go.. this has happen to me and a few friends.. then get new speakers.. i really dont know what kind of speakers you can put in.. because i've never delt with a cavilier but most people on this forum would say go for a component set of speakers.. if your willling to cut a hole for the tweeter.. or have a place where you can mount the tweeter separately.. from my own experience i will say dont get coaxial.. the component version of the same speakers sound alot better.. but if you want to just replace the speakers.. and u dont really need that much.. then just buy some coaxials.. then get some "rear fill" or just anything decent to replace your back speakers (preferebly something with a high RMS, so you dont need to worry about distorting/bass fluttering) then you can go one out of two ways (or both if u have enough $) you can get the sub amp, and the sub... i think for this you will need atleast $300 to get anything that REALLY POUNDs.. i've seen people say $200-$250 is not enough.. and its not.. seriously or you can get a 4 speaker amp for the speakers either way will work well but im going thru hell right now.. my car has no bass and i have no $ to buy an amp for my sub lol .. anyways good luck |
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#4
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Re: Advice on system
Quote:
That's normal for a stock head unit to clip after the halfway point (12 o'clock postion), and sound pretty bad by 3/4 volume. |
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#5
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Re: Advice on system
The point being is he can always add the speakers later when his budget permits. It is better to have headroom with the lower level speakers then to clip a better speaker with source unit power. I can not tell you how many times i have amplified stock speakers and have them play for a long time till there are problems. Some customers go two years with the stock on an amp. It comes down to how they are used/abused and the amp settings. Either way he can get the expensive equipment now on that budget and add the speakers later.
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1999 Corvette coupe 600rwhp and way too much stuff to list everything here. Audio Pioneer AVH P7500 DVD w/xm 2 PG Ti 600.2 1 PG TiDEQ Stinger battery,alternator,wire,cap,fuse blocks 1 JL 12w6v2 1 7" monitor in rear MB Quart 8" 4" and tweet in each door Custom fiberglass,plexiglas, and aluminum amp rack carbon fiber sub enclosure |
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#6
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Well I may just get a good head unit to start so I can spend a little more on it. I can spend about 200-250 at most on a head unit then later on Ill get the amp and sub and replace the stock speakers.
Heres what Ive been thinking of getting so far: Head unit - Kenwood Excelon KDC-X579 for $229.99 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ygWQgZa...&avf=Y&search= Amp - Rockford Fosgate Punch P3002 for $249.99 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ygWQgZa...&avf=Y&search= Sub - Would be fosgate not sure if I should go for 2 12", 2 10", or 1 12". Ill atleast get a head unit for now then add the sub and amp a little later on just would like some opinions on those selections. Thanks |
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#7
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a little heavy on the fosbreak stuff ........ and crutchfield doesn't usually have good prices
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#8
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replace head unit, then amp for speakers, then speakers, then sub and sub amp, at my other forum this guy got 1st place in sound quality with a tru amp running stock speakers in a volkswagon, he would have one the entire competition if he had a sub
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the aquabats are seriously the best band in the world |
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#9
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good lord .... there must have been some pretty pathetic competition - OEM speakers are normally very poorly placed for a true sound stage.
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#10
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So whats a good amp and sub that isnt too expensive but also has good quality/loudness. Im new to all this.
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#11
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Re: Advice on system
Quote:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...c;f=2;t=038465 http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...c;f=2;t=038466 |
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#12
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Rockford used to be one of the premier amp companies, then they went astray. Their biggest problem was that they overheated - all rockfords would run hot - causing problems with reliability. The other problem was that they did NOT like low impedance loads .... 2 ohm stereo (4 ohm mono) was all you could hope for. I really hope they do go back to their old ways, there's always room for another top notch amp company in my book.
As for the ratings, it's not uncommon for an amp with a very loosely regulated power supply to put out twice the power at 14.4V than at 12V. Ohhh, and 14.2-14.4 Volts IS a real world voltage when the car is started. I don't venture over to the sound domain board too often, too many people on there that are high on opinions and short on facts. |
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#13
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I've been doing this for a minute and I usually go
head speakers speaker amps subs sub amps caps and blocks monitors and then games
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