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| Forced Induction Discuss topics relating to turbochargers, superchargers, and nitrous oxide systems. |
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#16
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Re: auto and turbo?
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That's called wheel hop son, be prepared for even more of it when you put your way too big 18's with rubber band tires on, and probably some broken axles.Autos and turbos work well when it is a good auto. Honda autos suck. They're weak, don't hold much power before they start to slip, and all around suck for power production. Besides, you can use a 2-step and leave with boost with a 5-speed anyways. |
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#17
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that's interesting about how turbo's click with automatic's better then standards. i always thought auto's suck, but when i read small threads like this, and i learn that they can put up just the same fight with things such as this.
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#18
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Re: auto and turbo?
Autos are better for drag racing, at least for us rear-wheeled guys... We usually use GM Powerglides or Ford C4 trans, you lose around 18hp through a powerglide and like 25-30hp through a c4.. The ammount of time you gain from a much better and much more consistent launch and quicker more controlled shifts easily offsets any HP losses. The big dollar top fuel dragsters run clutchless manuals, best of both worlds. But I can see how an auto would suck on a Honda, 30hp is a rather large % of your total power.. the difference between 570 and 600hp isnt really that much for me. I'd rather have the better launches.
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#19
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30hp difference is alot when your racing someone with the same amount of hp as you. most serious racers at drag strips might have that much hp, but it wouldn't matter if your racing someone who doesn't have half as much hp as you.
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#20
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Re: auto and turbo?
Like I said, even if you are down 30hp because of the auto, you will launch and shift much better, and will most likely make up for any loss. Plus, if you're a serious drag racer, you can have a P-glide, ford c4/c6, and most any other v8 trans rollerized and lightened, which will drop those HP loss #s... those #s are for stock trans, you can probably get a c4 down to 15-20hp and a glide down to around 10-15.
Especially if you're running a turbo, you'll launch cleanly under full boost and not lose it through the entire race... That gain alone will put your far ahead of an equivalent manaul trans car. |
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#21
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so if the blow off valve lets out all the pressure after the tb closes wtf is it there wouldnt it be better to keep that all built up till you get the gas on again couldnt they make it so it only blows off when your turbotimer goes off when you shut the car off.
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#22
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Re: auto and turbo?
No.. with a manual, when the throttle snaps shut when you let off the gas during a shift, the pressurized air has no where to go, and the turbos arent making any more boost, so the air goes backwards thru the pipe and forces its way out through the turbo, which makes the turbo's compressor wheel 'stall', since air is trying to go backwards through it. So now you have a completely stopped turbo, that has to spool up from a standstill. With a BOV, it releases that air before it can force its way around the turbo, so the turbo can continue to sort of free spin, just keep spinning b/c of its inertia, so you'll spool faster with a BOV after a shift.
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#23
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Re: Re: auto and turbo?
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#24
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Re: auto and turbo?
ermm.. good discussion... but did anyone check the dates on the thread? it's a 2002
__________________
ZedEx Crew Member #61988 300zx turbo 5spd. 3" mandrel exhaust, filter, afco rad, e-fan, poly engine mounts, mbc at 8.5 psi, turboxs rfl-h bov, gutted plenum, etc. blown turbo, under construction.. gt35 coming. |
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