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#1
05-16-2004, 05:49 PM
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Removing ignition cylinder
I replaced my column yesterday ('95 9C1) because the wheel was loose and it failed MD inspection. Just bought the car last week...I need to remove the original key cylinder from the old column but havent figured out how....Anyone know?
Also, has anyone blocked off the big airbox on top the intake or the one between the filter and throttle body? I was thinkin about cutting or blocking them off or just making a straight-thru intake.... 
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#2
05-17-2004, 01:50 AM
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once you remove the wheel and lockplate, remove the turn signal switch and horn button,then a small screw under the cylinder holds it in place. undo that and if the keys are in and the switch is 'off/lock' it will slide right out.
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#3
05-17-2004, 07:37 PM
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Well I got the turn signal switch and everytig else out of the way, but I dont see this screw?? There was a small contact under the tumbler that pulled out and three torx bolts that hold the cover on, but I dont see any screw or anything else that holds the switch in...I'm stumped.
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#4
05-17-2004, 07:46 PM
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the contact should be for the horn - u dont see a 'slice' in the bottom of the cylinder whrere a screw goes thru and retains it?
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#5
05-18-2004, 08:08 PM
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Nope...it aint there. The reason Im pulling it out is that the steering wheel is loose and wont pass inspection (moves up and down slightly). So I need to get the cover off to get to the tilt mechanism and tighten it up...Hopefully thats the prob anyway. Otherwise I gotta shell out 250 bones for a junkyard column....
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#6
05-18-2004, 08:58 PM
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they dont get 'loose', the gimbal bearing cracks.
but 250 for a collumn - thats rape. they are $25 here lookup Ricks auto salvage in Kersey PA - the column SHIPPED will be well over $150 cheaper.
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#7
05-18-2004, 10:15 PM
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Man, if it aint one bit of bad news after another.....Im just tryin to get the fker on the road. I bought it a week ago and only drove it three or four times since...I guess I can wait til the weekend and go to a pick-your-part yard. Thanks for the help tho, quad. Ill mess with it some more tomorrow, this crap is stressng me out....
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#8
05-19-2004, 03:43 AM
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Re: Removing ignition cylinder
The tilt mechanism does get loose! if you are down to the ring with the tower for the horn . . . is there a gear that it comes up through? Take the battery cable loose first. You will need to remove the lock down inside to remove it then the geat like thing and the horn ring part can be lifted up. There she be a special piece that has a screw in it that moves the turn signal switch as you move the turn signal handle, remove that screw and the three that hold the turnsignal switch down. Remove the small dash plate under the collumn and you will see a clip attached to the collar under the shift collar - this is what shows on the dash what gear your in. Remove it - you can put it back and readjust the pointer later. there is a plate the has four bolts in the column and two nuts that are on studs that hold it to the dash. Remove the plate. there are two sleeves under it (a white one that has the cruise control wire if you have one) and the black one that has the wires for the turn signal switch in it. Unplug the wires so you can lift out the switch from the assembly. Unscrew the tilt lever and pull straight out on the turn signal lever to remove. After you lift the turn signal switch out there are four screws - one holds the tumbler and three hold the assembly together, Take the screw out that holds the tumbler (the key should be in the tumbler and in the lock position) pull out tumbler. The assembly housing will lift up - there is a cup under the the opening where the turn signal switch lever went - you will have a funny shaped plastic piece inside - this operates your dimmer switch and there will be a pot metal rack there too . . . remember how it goes because when you go back it goes together like a jigsaw puzzle and all at once . . .
With that housing removed you should see the ball down inside that is in the steering shaft. ther are two pins that are driven in the assembly. Get either a puller or I've found some screws that go in those pins. Screw them in, but not to the bottom there is a risk of breaking the screw - use a screw driver for a pivot and use a pair of dikes to pull those pins. You can lift the assembly and let it dangle on the turnsignal wires . . . You should be able to see four screws that have a torx head - use a regular six point (quarter inch drive) one quarter socket on them. Take them out ONE AT A TIME and just add a SMALL drop of locktite to it then put back in and tighten down. Reverse to install. Simple? Not vary but I've rebuilt many a one . . . You can get another one and then experiment on this one unless you have to turn it in for a core. . .
__________________
Cheryl . . . Mom, mechanic, and gopher  1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 What do you mean I can't use that on a FORD?
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#9
05-20-2004, 08:38 PM
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Thank you ladymech. I found that out the hard way, but your description was perfect. I ended up replacing the whole tilt mechanism just in case but I did tighten up the four reverse torx bolts behind it...As far as the two pins that hold it together I used some 4mm bolts that threaded in and a claw hammer to pry em out. Havent quite got it together, Im having trouble lining up the gear that moves the ignition switch...Got frustrated and had to walk away. The wierd thing though was that my ignition tumbler didnt have a screw to hold it in, it just had a little plastic button that you push in to release it, no matter what position it's in. You dont even need the key to take it out.. Anyway, I just gotta get that gear lined up and everythings a go, Im still half tempted to go get a pick-your-part column cheap and just replace the whole damn thing. But now I know every dam piece of that column by heart....
Oh yeah, the gear position switch is electronic and located closer to the firewall, so theres no need to adjust the pointer like you described... Thanks for the info tho, even though I already found it out the hard way....
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#10
05-20-2004, 11:36 PM
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Re: Removing ignition cylinder
It wouldn't hurt to have an extra steering collumn in the garage - you can take your time redoing the one you take out . . . who knows a buddy might need one and buy yours . . .
I've had to do as many as five in one week - Dad's shop was with a body shop and those that were stolen and wrecked we did the interior stuff dash, console, steering collumn . . . you could always tell which ones were stolen by a pro and those that were (or almost were) stolen by idiot-idiots (or kids) . . . or the non-tilt ones that the rod was on top of the collumn and they only busted the side completely up trying to find it!  Had one car that was stolen and tore up the frame; also taking the mags, tires, and radio. Had to put a console (floor shift and melds to dash with the radio in it), radio, and rebuilt the collumn. He got it back and it was stolen again a week later! They really did a tear up job on it that time! 
__________________
Cheryl . . . Mom, mechanic, and gopher 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 What do you mean I can't use that on a FORD?
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#11
06-10-2004, 08:07 PM
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Re: Removing ignition cylinder
Quote:
Sorry, but they do get loose. The bolts holding the column where the tilt and all that meet in place and tight do work themselves out over the years (or sooner under heavy wear and tear), and eventually come out altogether (IE: No steering). I've had this happen to my 86 Caprice classic.
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