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#1
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my BP1200.1 fried, what to do? what are these black things?
ok, I had a JBL BP1200.1 pushing a 12 in my car, no problems with the amp at all, then I wrecked my car. today I sold it to a friend of mine and helped him put it in along with my cap he bought off me. so I get it all in and I know it is wired right because I have wired systems alot and this is exactly what I just wired up in my car, plus we just took the REM,GND, and PWR from the JBL back to his amp he had ben using and it works fine. I know no wires were shorting against another wire or anything like that, but I forgot to see what size fuse he had in his D block already, which ended up being a 50. the amp turned on at first and just the green light was lit. all gains were down as well as any bass boosts. he turned on his deck then I started to turn up the gain, well, as soon as it got high enough where a bit of bass could be heard, the red protection LED lit momentarily then they both shut of, turns out the 50 amp fuse had blown, not really blown thogh, it melted, I figured it was because the amp needs way more than 50 amps to push 1200+ watts in a 12v system even when getting 14 volts. so I then put in my fused D block with a 100 amp ANL style fuse. now when the fuse touched the contacts I heard a sort of hissing sound so I pulled it off quickl and look at the amp and it is smoking pretty bad. I opened it all up inside and it is some plastic black things that melted. on eihter side of the circuit board, going the length of the amp theres a lot of little black squares with 3 prongs, coming out of them going towards the inside of the amp then bending down through the boatrd gettign soldered on. then a bunch of bars with screws through them to the board holding these black things to the amp chassis. the first 5 in one row are all messed up/melted and the board is a bit blackened near them. could being in a wreck getting jolted hard cause an amp to short out next time its powered up?
anyone ever had things repaired by JBL, is it reasonably priced? I did buy it from a seller on ebay who sold them as factory refurbished so I am assuming I have the warrantt still, I am waiting to see what he says but Im expecting Im gonna just have to pay to get it repaired.
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current -84 datsun 720 4x4(2nd time)-93 accord-90 camry V6-90 warrior-94 300ex history: -01 R1-04 daytona 600-94 teg RS-95 teg LS -91 teg RS-92 teg GSR-94 civic CX hatch (3 times) -94 civic DX-96 civic HX-97 Accord LX-72 superbeetle -74 beetle-84 silverado-66 c10-74 maverick-78 280z -84 200sx-86 tercel wagon-95 mustang V6 |
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#2
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These little black things are Transistors if the legs are burnt off then there was prolly a problem with the sub or the speaker leads were shorted. I cannot see the install to give a better explanation but when the transistors burn out is usually due to a dead short of some sort. If the voicecoil on the sub was damaged it may have seperated when the sub started to react to the bass which fried the amp. I'm not saying this was the cause it may have been though. 50amps of current should have been a sufficient amount usually fuses on dblocks and underhood are there to protect the wire not the amp. The amp has it's own fuses to do this. But back on the idea of the fried transistors. You have to have the amp serviced or buy a new one.
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"Working in car audio has it's advantages, but it also shows you how much money ppl have to waste." |
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#3
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well, I know no power wires or any thing like that were shorted cuz after mine fried the power wires just went right to his amp he had been using and it worked, but since his amp was mounted on the rack above the box already and had speaker wires routed, we did go back ot his current ones of those. and I did one sub he did the other, and we never actualy changed the wires from the terminal to sub in the box so I know thise are fine. and the side I did I know I made it so no bare wire couched each other or the othewr terminal at all. and I didnt inspect his side closely but it didnt look as if they were shjorting out. and I can have a pic of the insides of the amp to give you more detail if you want but sounds like you already know what happened. so no need to...
and the legs arent burnt off, just a small circle in the middle of them melted.
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current -84 datsun 720 4x4(2nd time)-93 accord-90 camry V6-90 warrior-94 300ex history: -01 R1-04 daytona 600-94 teg RS-95 teg LS -91 teg RS-92 teg GSR-94 civic CX hatch (3 times) -94 civic DX-96 civic HX-97 Accord LX-72 superbeetle -74 beetle-84 silverado-66 c10-74 maverick-78 280z -84 200sx-86 tercel wagon-95 mustang V6 |
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#4
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Re: my BP1200.1 fried, what to do? what are these black things?
Transistors are blown obviously. Its one of the most common thing to go when you blow an amp. Looks can be deceiving. There could be many other transistors (or there could be some MOSFETs) that may look fine, but is internally crapped out. heh.
Same with my new Dei 1100d (i like my old one better). It's dead and the internal looks fine.
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