Stock Valve Springs?

RBBH · #1 10-25-2003, 04:18 PM

Hey Guys-

First off I'm brand new to this forum. I just got a set of custom comp cams. I don't know how strong the stock valve springs are. Should they be ok with a 285 duration and 250 lift? As most of you should know you don't want to over do it on the spring strength because cause it sacrifices power/wear.

This is for a 95 LS non V-Tec.

Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks

crxlvr · #2 10-25-2003, 08:04 PM

i mean they should hold up, but while your in there tearing the head apart, you might as well upgrade to dual valve springs and titanium retainers.

whtteg · #3 10-25-2003, 10:55 PM

crxlvr I don't want to come off like an ass or anything but the stock valve springs will not hold up to that kind of lift man stock is 220 duration and 185 lift and the rpm range he wil have they will bind, I dould recomend not installing these unless you have the springs to accomadate them.

BullShifter · #4 10-26-2003, 01:11 AM

I would also suggest using performance type springs & retainers. Since your working with the head, you should also have it ported/polished w/ 3 angle valve job, IMO. Then you have to P/P the throttle body & intake manifold Then bigger injectors, fuel rail, etc, etc the list goes on & on.

PreludeMOFO · #5 10-26-2003, 01:38 AM

people always say port and polish, whats this mean exactly?

BullShifter · #6 10-26-2003, 01:44 AM

Porting & polishing is basically making the ports larger & smoother for better effciency.

For further information ----->http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm -- I highy suggest you DO NOT try for the 1st time on your own daily driver - get a junk yard head to practice. Nothing beats a machine shop, IMO.

Sulsa · #7 10-27-2003, 09:23 PM

Port and polish is one of the last things I'd do to my engine. Reason being that it is quite expensive compared to the gains acheived from it. I'm just not impressed with the cash/HP ratio.

However, putting in a pair of huge cams like that has got to be one of the better reasons to get a port and polish, as it will help you take advantage of your new valve timing. Since you will need new valve springs to accommodate those cams, you'll have to take the head off anyhow. This is a good time to get a port and polish if you ever plan on having it done.

I've read several horror stories of machine shops screwing ppl's heads up trying to perform a P&P. I'd make sure you take it to someone that know's what they are doing, and won't screw ya.

Question:

Why are you going with such a radical cam profile? I checked crower's site, and your cam profiles are almost the same as their stage 3 race only cams. They recommend an all new valvetrain including titanium valves, and cylinder head work done to support them. You can check it out here:

http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/camshafts.shtml

whtteg · #8 10-27-2003, 10:49 PM

I agree about the cam profile you will run into valve mushruming after awhile
And you don't have to remove the hed to install new valve springs

RBBH · #9 10-28-2003, 11:04 AM

Even though these are very large cams the differ hugely from the comp stage 3. The Comp stage 3 have a very aggresive ramp angle. The ones I am using don't have even close to the angle as those. Mine were a special on off grind done by the R&D department for their stage 2 cams. The were made to fit in the head without modifications and hve since found out they have springs/retainers perfectly matched for the cams.

By the way, don't waste your time taking the head off for a vavle spring job, here's how to do it easily.

Get a compresion gauge that screws into the spark plug threads. Make sure you can unscrew the gauge itself leaving the air hose that is screwed in.

Conect this hose to an air compresure. After you have removed the rocker arm ass. pressurize the cylinder. This will hold the valves closed even after you remove the springs/retainers.

whtteg · #10 10-28-2003, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBBH

Even though these are very large cams the differ hugely from the comp stage 3. The Comp stage 3 have a very aggresive ramp angle. The ones I am using don't have even close to the angle as those. Mine were a special on off grind done by the R&D department for their stage 2 cams. The were made to fit in the head without modifications and hve since found out they have springs/retainers perfectly matched for the cams.

By the way, don't waste your time taking the head off for a vavle spring job, here's how to do it easily.

Get a compresion gauge that screws into the spark plug threads. Make sure you can unscrew the gauge itself leaving the air hose that is screwed in.

Conect this hose to an air compresure. After you have removed the rocker arm ass. pressurize the cylinder. This will hold the valves closed even after you remove the springs/retainers.

Remomber to do one cylinder at a time

Sulsa · #11 10-28-2003, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBBH

Even though these are very large cams the differ hugely from the comp stage 3. The Comp stage 3 have a very aggresive ramp angle. The ones I am using don't have even close to the angle as those. Mine were a special on off grind done by the R&D department for their stage 2 cams. The were made to fit in the head without modifications and hve since found out they have springs/retainers perfectly matched for the cams.

By the way, don't waste your time taking the head off for a vavle spring job, here's how to do it easily.

Get a compresion gauge that screws into the spark plug threads. Make sure you can unscrew the gauge itself leaving the air hose that is screwed in.

Conect this hose to an air compresure. After you have removed the rocker arm ass. pressurize the cylinder. This will hold the valves closed even after you remove the springs/retainers.

Wow, I didn't know that. I don't have a spring compressor, so I didn't want to mess with it on my engine. I figured the machine shop had to grind the valve seats anyhow, let them take the valve assembly apart.

BTW, I said your cams were almost the same as CROWER's stage 3 race only cams. I haven't even been to Comp Cams site yet, although I probably should have check there for a better comparison.

RBBH · #12 10-29-2003, 11:08 AM

Yah, If you have the shop do other work you already have to head off so no big deal. This process is great if you need to replace the valve stem seals or something quick on the top side of the head. Its also important that you rent or buy the right compressor. There are two types. On that looks like a big c-clamp. These are an older style and won't work with the head on. There is another type that hooks around the coils of the spring and then screws down and compresses the retainer and spring. You can then just remove the two little keepers and pull the spring off. Be carefull as the keepers are small, smooth and coated in oil. They are very easy to drop into the abyss of splash guards and crossmembers under the car, or even worse, down into the cylinder.

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