2000 S-10, ABS and Brake light issue - have codes, need advice!!!

[wshuart]

Hey Folks!

I have a 2000 S-10, 4.3l, V6, 2WD that I have had the ABS and Brake light come on. I took it to the shop and got the codes read. Here they are:

C0265, C0241, C0242, C0245, C0246, C0251, C0252.

All these are pointing to a bad EBCM.

I have some suspicions though. When I first start the truck, the lights may or may not come on. Sometimes when I pump the brakes, the lights come on, and other times, it stays off. When I drive the truck for about 10+ minutes, generally, they come on.

1. Does anyone have any experience with an replacing/diagnosing an EBCM? I heard it isnt really something you can do yourself (needs to be programmed).

2. Anyone out there get a used one and have it work? I know getting a 'used computer' isn't a great idea, but the cost of a new one is ~$800.

Thanks for the help! Here in VA, the ABS and Brake lights can not be on to pass inspection. So, here is my delema!

Will

[MT-2500]

To start with you have to many codes.
Some of them are not even good codes for a 00 model.
Clear codes and see which one comes back first.
Post back what comes back first.

What kind of scanner are you usung to pull codes.

[wshuart]

ummm... I had it scanned at the dealership for $85.00 So I wont be doing that again. The code that was on it at the time was C0265, but all the others were in memory.


I know most of those refer to a bad EBCM from the Chilton's manual I have. But what is freaky is the lack of consistent 'on' of the lights. I thought maybe cleaning the connections into the EBCM and on the ABS sensors.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by wshuart

ummm... I had it scanned at the dealership for $85.00 So I wont be doing that again. The code that was on it at the time was C0265, but all the others were in memory.


I know most of those refer to a bad EBCM from the Chilton's manual I have. But what is freaky is the lack of consistent 'on' of the lights. I thought maybe cleaning the connections into the EBCM and on the ABS sensors.

You got took on the diagnostic fee.
Just like some dealers and repair shops do a 10 minute code read and charge a hr. labor for read out and not even test it out for the codes it had.
For 85 dollars they should have gave you the time and labor you paid for on testing it out.

Codes should have been cleared and checked for what came back first.
And the repair flow chart run for that code.
If only codes 265 comes back.

Code 262 is EBCM Relay circuit.

Could be just a wiring problem
All of the wiring on that circuit needs checked for bad connections and corrosion.

Get a factory repair manual or A all data online sub.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
And go threw the repair flow chart for that code.

Let us know how it goes.

[tolaschkm]

I know what exatly what i wrong with your ABS.... you need a new abs Moduale and valve assembaley... new ist about 1200 dollors but one out of the junk yard will work for about 300

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by wshuart

ummm... I had it scanned at the dealership for $85.00 So I wont be doing that again. The code that was on it at the time was C0265, but all the others were in memory.


I know most of those refer to a bad EBCM from the Chilton's manual I have. But what is freaky is the lack of consistent 'on' of the lights. I thought maybe cleaning the connections into the EBCM and on the ABS sensors.

since this is intermittent,some have found bad grounds ....since the dealership pulled weird DTC'S this could be an explaination for this...

disconnect the neg battery lead,then remove grounds clean and reinstall....

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by tolaskm

I know what exactly what i wrong with your ABS.... you need a new abs Module and valve assembly... new it about 1200 dollars but one out of the junk yard will work for about 300

Good Grief. tolaskm
There is no way you can know exactly what is wrong with it over the bob monitor unless you have extra sensory prescription and X ray vision.

Only proper testing will tell what the problem is.

[Cam1959]

Originally Posted by j cAT

since this is intermittent,some have found bad grounds ....since the dealership pulled weird DTC'S this could be an explaination for this...

disconnect the neg battery lead,then remove grounds clean and reinstall....

I have found bac grounds can be quickly easily realixed, altleas if they have gotn oil on them, like starter/battery block ground ...

Spray it liberally with an alcoloh like spary such as distrituber dryers sprays ... removes grease andoil and gunk ... put wrench to it and loosen and retighten.

My problem went away.

This could apply to any connections so be sure all are clean, loosen, retighten, and see.

[tolaschkm]

Well yeah it is good greif..

I am a ASE Master Tech are you..

We see this all the time in the shop. ussaly after someone has been off roading or going through a lot of snow...

what happens is when you hit the brakes and the abs atartes pulsing and the driver starts pumping the brakes.. the Abs Valve and Moduale can not keep uo and overload the valve. so the abs and brake lite will come on at the same time.. sometimes it come on right away and other times not all depends on braking.. you do not need a new computer. you are wasting your time..
take it to the dealer and you will see

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by tolaschkm

Well yeah it is good greif..

I am a ASE Master Tech are you..

We see this all the time in the shop. ussaly after someone has been off roading or going through a lot of snow...

what happens is when you hit the brakes and the abs atartes pulsing and the driver starts pumping the brakes.. the Abs Valve and Moduale can not keep uo and overload the valve. so the abs and brake lite will come on at the same time.. sometimes it come on right away and other times not all depends on braking.. you do not need a new computer. you are wasting your time..
take it to the dealer and you will see

since you have see this alot [ABS VALVE/MODULE] failures, what would be the solution?

I have read that if the ABS is frequently being activated,the brake fluid gets damaged...air is somehow injected into the fluid and this is because of the rapid pulsations and pumping pressure...

I having alot of experience in larger brake systems . I have found when replacing componets, that require several quarts of fluid,, I set the fill pump to fill the brake res. very slowly or air gets into the fluid causing a very poor brake performance..

with these larger systems filling can also be done from the caliper,and with pump pressure back fill the system...this then results in a very short bleed time...

on this type of system with the dot3 fluid,what do you recommend as a proper replacement time interval?

[tolaschkm]

If your system is full there should be no air getting into the system..also you should never have to chage the dot 3 fluid..

the recomended thing to do is to take it do the dealer and have a full dignostic done.. should not cost more than 35-60 dollors. the abs modual and vavle assembley is all one unit. if you look under the hood it will be right after the brake buster. it will have a silver top on it and have wires comming out of it. that is the moduale. and the valve is under it. you can replace it your self but you will have to take it to a dealer to program it..

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by tolaschkm

I know what exatly what i wrong with your ABS.... you need a new abs Moduale and valve assembaley... new ist about 1200 dollors but one out of the junk yard will work for about 300

No way anyone can know what is wrong until proper testing is done.

Originally Posted by tolaschkm

Well yeah it is good greif..

I am a ASE Master Tech are you..

We see this all the time in the shop. ussaly after someone has been off roading or going through a lot of snow...

what happens is when you hit the brakes and the abs atartes pulsing and the driver starts pumping the brakes.. the Abs Valve and Moduale can not keep uo and overload the valve. so the abs and brake lite will come on at the same time.. sometimes it come on right away and other times not all depends on braking.. you do not need a new computer. you are wasting your time..
take it to the dealer and you will see

Read the poster post.
The poster has already been to the dealer and just got robbed.

Originally Posted by tolaschkm

Well yeah it is good greif..

I am a ASE Master Tech are you..

We see this all the time in the shop. ussaly after someone has been off roading or going through a lot of snow...

what happens is when you hit the brakes and the abs atartes pulsing and the driver starts pumping the brakes.. the Abs Valve and Moduale can not keep uo and overload the valve. so the abs and brake lite will come on at the same time.. sometimes it come on right away and other times not all depends on braking.. you do not need a new computer. you are wasting your time..
take it to the dealer and you will see

We are not here to get into a pissing match over who has the biggest ASE patch.

Originally Posted by tolaschkm

If your system is full there should be no air getting into the system..also you should never have to chage the dot 3 fluid..

the recomended thing to do is to take it do the dealer and have a full dignostic done.. should not cost more than 35-60 dollors. the abs modual and vavle assembley is all one unit. if you look under the hood it will be right after the brake buster. it will have a silver top on it and have wires comming out of it. that is the moduale. and the valve is under it. you can replace it your self but you will have to take it to a dealer to program it..

Reread the posters post.
He has already been to the dealer and got robbed out of 85 dollars.
With out any help on his problem.

When did they start reprogramming ABS modules?

[who fan]

http://www.absfixer.com/catalog/inde...h85rihipnq2eq7

http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php

This should help you get a new module cheap if need be.