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#16
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Re: Cap and Rotor
As far as I know, the brand has nothing to do with the temperature range of the plug, it all depends on the part number ordered.
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| Teal95Jimmy |
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#17
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Re: Cap and Rotor
That is incorrect. No other plug has the heat range of the Delco ones.
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#18
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Re: Cap and Rotor
delco plats are one of if not the hottest burning plugs made
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| dmbrisket 51 |
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#19
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Re: Cap and Rotor
I am just wondering what do you mean by heat range and hottest burning plugs? I thought that plugs were rated by the length of their tips and how far that they extended into the combustion chamber. The more a plug extends into the chamber the more heat is transfered to it and to the insulator(hot). The less the plug extends into the chamber the less heat is transfered to the insulator (cold). It is bad for a plug to hold too much heat it will act just like a glow plug and detonate the incoming mixture before the piston chamber fills (knock & Ping) eventually destroying your engine.
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#20
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Re: Cap and Rotor
Can anyone provide some internet links for the comparison of the "heat range"? I would but I am not sure what I am looking for. This would provide an end to the war here...
__________________
1999 Blazer 4x4 LS "Blackie" Monroe Reflex Shocks Moog U/L Ball Joints K&N FIPK Gen 2 Cold Air Intake Flo-pro Soundpro exhaust Optima Redtop 132k miles and still rolling.... |
| Cloud Strife |
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#21
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Re: Cap and Rotor
Here is one explanation:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/64378/ |
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#22
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Re: Cap and Rotor
there is no war, by hot i mean hot, temperature, a wood fire is hot, but an oxy accedelien torch is hotter, they are both flames but the tempertaure of opperation is much 'hotter' on the second one, gm requires .060 gap and a strong hot spark in that gap, gm's theory of opperation is the bigger the gap the more molicules of air and atomized gas that can fit into that space, and they need a hot (blue not ornge) spark to proporly ignite and burn all the fuel in the cylender, a cool plug will let some raw gas by because it will be unburned, eventually this can burn the vehical down in worst case or junk the cat which is needed on all vehicals 96 and newer due to a post catalitic converter oxyegen sencer...
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| dmbrisket 51 |
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#23
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Re: Cap and Rotor
Quote:
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#24
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Re: Cap and Rotor
Quote:
__________________
2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2 Performance Mods: Numerous Suspension Mods: Some, but not enough Exterior Mods: Just Right 1987 Buick Turbo T Dark Red Low 11 sec sleeper ![]() .030 4.1 block, PT6262E, & other odds and ends.... My Cardomain |
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#25
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Re: Cap and Rotor
Plats are platinum, rapid fire are copper. If your vehicle is 1996+, you need plats
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#26
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Re: Cap and Rotor
back to the "title" of the thread...if you have crank and air/fuel and at least some spark, but it still won't start, it's likely the cap/rotor. i realize this isn't in response to the op's question, but is just an FYI that is related to the title (i replaced mine 2 weeks ago and it fixed my "mystery" problem.)
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| hatemyblazer |
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#27
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Re: Cap and Rotor
I usually have no issue buying Aftermarket parts and Bosch parts are typically pretty good....however I will testify that only Delco plugs work properly in a Vortec V6. I ran Bosch for a week and had misfires on all cylinders.
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#28
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Re: Cap and Rotor
i use some aftermarket parts at work, not all are bad, but some systems on the newer vehicals are just pickie as to what they get tossed at them
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| dmbrisket 51 |
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#29
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Re: Cap and Rotor
My 99' 4x4 is doing good with my Autolite's that I installed in it. But I have only put on about 11k miles on the plugs.
__________________
1999 Blazer 4x4 LS "Blackie" Monroe Reflex Shocks Moog U/L Ball Joints K&N FIPK Gen 2 Cold Air Intake Flo-pro Soundpro exhaust Optima Redtop 132k miles and still rolling.... |
| Cloud Strife |
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#30
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Re: Cap and Rotor
autolite is a ford plug
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| dmbrisket 51 |
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