1996 Aurora Strange Problem

[JFGiles]

Ok, where so I start? I have a 1998 Aurora Autobahn and love it more than anything, I have had the car since late 1999 and it has been great, justhit 100k on Thursday. It appears that I have obtained that notorius headlamp problem. I followed the directions on cleaning the switch found in previous posts and after doping the repairs I thought I had it solved but a few hours later it started back up again. Does any body have any further advice on this problem? I found a post on another site and the reccomendation was to pull the gray #2 wire out of the LCM unit and leave it alone. Does this actually work? I have found the switch online from gmpartsdirect.com for $195.00 And I think that is probably the best way to go. Is this something I cando myself or is there something that I should stay away from. I have no problems with electrical work and have working knowledge of the steering column systems. I know that some of you out there are in the same boat or have been in the same boat before, so any information would be appreciated.

I also have access to the exploded views of all just about any vehicle and any parts subsection with part numbers and prices if anybody needs any help in the future with any of that type of information as I own an independent insurance auto appraisal firm.

[thumpin455]

I'm the one who posted the step by step cleaning procedure under this same thread on 4-20-04. I would like too clarify a few things. The semi-circular hole pattern is about the diameter of a nickle. There will be five tiny holes at the 12:00, 2:00, 4:00, 5:00, and 6:00 o'clock positions. Use the Radio Shack #64-4315 Contact/Control Cleaner Lubricant and the Radio Shack #64-4351 Velocity Dust Remover Spray as your compressed air follow up. Both of these have the little red straw nozzle allowing you to spray directly into the 5 tiny holes on the switch at point blank range. Use towels and be very liberal with both. Spray cleaner into each hole several times while working the switch. Spray the compressed air into each hole while working the switch. Repeat 10 or 12 times and that should do it.

If your headlights continue to stick on after cleaning the switch then you will want to look at the only mechanicals inside the Lamp Control Module. The LCM box easily snaps appart by removing 4 phillips head screws. You will see 3 tiny coil relays on the circuit board. You will need a magnifying glass to inspect the contacts on each. What you may find is that one or more of these contacts have developed a build-up that has essentially closed off the gap. This build-up is similar to what happens on a set of ignition points in an old car except on a smaller scale. Like I say these contacts are tiny but you can use the tip of sharp xacto knife to knock off any high spots. They don't have to be perfectly smooth and flat, just move the contacts to make sure you've got a good click click action going on.

Sorry to get so long winded again.

[dsatt12]

I think we'll all put up with a certain amount of verbosity if you're saving up from buying a $450 switch assy from the dealer...

[RickyZ]

Originally Posted by thumpin455

I'm the one who posted the step by step cleaning procedure under this same thread on 4-20-04. I would like too clarify a few things. The semi-circular hole pattern is about the diameter of a nickle. There will be five tiny holes at the 12:00, 2:00, 4:00, 5:00, and 6:00 o'clock positions. Use the Radio Shack #64-4315 Contact/Control Cleaner Lubricant and the Radio Shack #64-4351 Velocity Dust Remover Spray as your compressed air follow up. Both of these have the little red straw nozzle allowing you to spray directly into the 5 tiny holes on the switch at point blank range. Use towels and be very liberal with both. Spray cleaner into each hole several times while working the switch. Spray the compressed air into each hole while working the switch. Repeat 10 or 12 times and that should do it.

If your headlights continue to stick on after cleaning the switch then you will want to look at the only mechanicals inside the Lamp Control Module. The LCM box easily snaps appart by removing 4 phillips head screws. You will see 3 tiny coil relays on the circuit board. You will need a magnifying glass to inspect the contacts on each. What you may find is that one or more of these contacts have developed a build-up that has essentially closed off the gap. This build-up is similar to what happens on a set of ignition points in an old car except on a smaller scale. Like I say these contacts are tiny but you can use the tip of sharp xacto knife to knock off any high spots. They don't have to be perfectly smooth and flat, just move the contacts to make sure you've got a good click click action going on.

Sorry to get so long winded again.

Paul,
I performed and the problem went away. I only sprayed 3 times since your original procedure did not specify the exact amount of times. After reading the previous reply about the fellow having the problem go away then come back after a few hours, I hope that doesn't happen to me. I performed the procedure Sat morning and here it is Monday morning and still everything is good. Like I said too in my email to you, My access was very limited so my spraying was probably over more of an area than just isolated to the 5 contacts. Dunno what long term effects that may have???

[robert m rottman]

A huge thank you to thumpin455 for your detailed instructions to fix this "96 Aurora strange problem" I had no problems following your detailed procedure this past Wednesday 7-7-04 and now my Aurora is OK. Running lights are not blinking on and off anymore, no more clicking of the relays in the black box under the dash. Many many thanks and may God bless you for sharing your knowledge with us all. One note to others is that this problem was intermittent for approximately one year before it became constant just last month. I had disconnected the black box (lamp module) under the dash a few times and the problem went away before they constantly did it and I found this fix on this forum. Thanks again......

[Borealis]

OK...Help me out. It looks as though July '04 is the time for most all '98 Aurora's headlight systems to crash. j/k Thumpin455, I tried your suggestions...by the way, kudos on the instructions. Drove the car to work this a.m., only to find the battery DOA when I was ready to come home. No biggie, got a jump, and pulled the LCM to get home. I'm probably going to try cleaning the switch again as you instructed, and hopefully that will work. I noticed in one posting that someone talked about pulling a gray wire out of one of the LCM harness connections? Anybody know anything about this? Better yet...is there a way to do away w/ the LCM, as this module is only for the sentinel light function isn't it? Is it possible to pull the module and splice a couple of wires, and use the headlight switch in a manual function? I hate to mess too much, as I don't need a fried Aurora. Any instruction on removing the turn signal/headlight switch? Maybe I could do a more thorough job cleaning it w/ it removed. Any feedback would be greatly valued!
sd

Originally Posted by thumpin455

Yes I too can confirm that the multifunction headlight switch is what makes the headlights randomly flash back on and off after the car is turned off. The relays inside the Lamp Control Module box located under the left side of the dash will also make a random click noise that coincides with the random flashing of the lights. In my case and most others, you will find that the Lamp Control Module is not the problem and niether is the twilight sentinel adjustment control. Again, the multifunction switch seems to be the common culprit. I did a search here and on a couple of the other Aurora forums and everyone seemed to cure their flashing lights/stuck on syndrome by replacing the multifunction switch which cost over $500 for a dealer to do it. I also found a few posts by Hammen and others that made reference to too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. I found another post about using contact cleaner with good results and this is what I did to cure my problem today.

Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $

[oldsmobuick]

YOU ROCK!!

Ok, I just finished the repair on my 99 Aurora with the clicking/flashing problem per your instructions. The hardest part was locating a 5mm nut driver, but once I did, WOW! I almost can't believe it worked! Thanks so much!!

[Travisbrowning]

Thanks for the help, I have a 98 Olds Aurora. Problem just started today. It does look posessed! I read posts that sometimes the problem was the lamp control module, and others the multi-switch. To troubleshoot, locate the control module (LCM) located on the left side of the instrument panel. It has a 2 connectors 6 pin and 16 pin. Measure voltage on White wire (B1) in reference to ground. This is the control wire from the multi-switch. It should read battery voltage when manual switch is off, and ground when lights turned on manually. ( When connected to LCM, a trouble light to ground on this pin will turn on the headlights, and won't detect problem) If problem is in switch, the voltage should fluctuate as the light flashing problem occurs. If it does not fluctuate, then the problem is most likely the LCM. If it does fluctuate, disconect the 16 pin connector from the LCM, and connect an ohmmeter between the white lead of the wire harness and ground, or a test light between battery and the white lead. To verify proper connection, turn on headlight switch, and the ohmmeter will show a short to ground, or the test light will light. Then turn off headlamp switch, and wait. If it is the switch, you will see the ohmmeter fluctuate, or the test lamp; flash intermittently, as the headlights were doing. My problem was in the switch. I did not have time tonight to clean the switch, as someone had mentioned, but intend to this weekend. For an interim solution, I removed the white wire from pin B1 of the connector, and tapped it back to harness. This pin on it has ground potential when active so it is relatively safe. I never use my manual light switch anyway, I let the light sentinel turn my lights on/off automatically, so I won't miss it. Be cautious, as you will no longer have option to manually turn on your lights if somehow the automatic feature failed, but that would be unlikely. Note, this method still allows the parking lights, and the fog lights to be used normally with manual switches. Note, to remove pin, there are four rows of holes on the LCM side of the connector, I inserted a mini-screwdriver in the hole adjacent to the one with the white wire, and got pin to pop out undamaged.

[Sk33t]

Man it really works Well I haven't actually did it but i took off the steering cover and found the 5 holes. One of the holes was filled with grease so I got a small knife with a sharpe tip and clean the grease and the lights stop flashing. I'm on my way right now to radio shack right now to get the contact cleaner and compressed air so I can do the job right. Thanks in advance

[treeboy38]

Thank you thumpin455 for your post. My lights were flashing whish in turn killed my battery. I fixed the switch today and so far *knock on wood* the lights aren't flashing.

Thank you very much!

[sequret]

Thank you so much to thumpkin455, you are an Aurora God in my book. Your easy to read instructions fixed my blinking chiming problem also. Only takes 30 min. or so. Longer to wait for the cleaner to dry! You saved me hundreds!!!!!

[boattaillou]

Originally Posted by RobertHammen

I had the same issue. The problem is too much grease on the multi-function switch. You can try taking it apart and cleaning it, or you can just get a new/used switch (it's not cheap). Other symptoms include a relay going "click-click-click-click" all of the time (this killed my battery on my '98 when this happened)...

--Robert

Hello, Would this problem also be the reason the parking lights would flash on/off after the car is off? My friend has a '97 and the parking lights flash on/off after the car is off. Also, can hear the clicking under the driver's side. The headlights work find and do not come on after the car is off. It is just the parking lights flashing. Thanks for any information you can lend on this subject. Lou

[boattaillou]

Originally Posted by thumpin455

Yes I too can confirm that the multifunction headlight switch is what makes the headlights randomly flash back on and off after the car is turned off. The relays inside the Lamp Control Module box located under the left side of the dash will also make a random click noise that coincides with the random flashing of the lights. In my case and most others, you will find that the Lamp Control Module is not the problem and niether is the twilight sentinel adjustment control. Again, the multifunction switch seems to be the common culprit. I did a search here and on a couple of the other Aurora forums and everyone seemed to cure their flashing lights/stuck on syndrome by replacing the multifunction switch which cost over $500 for a dealer to do it. I also found a few posts by Hammen and others that made reference to too much grease in the rotating part of the switch where the contacts are housed. I found another post about using contact cleaner with good results and this is what I did to cure my problem today.

Pardon me for being longwinded but here is how I saved over $500 and you can do it too. You will need to gain access to the rotating contact part of the switch that is hidden under the steering wheel covers but you will not have to remove the switch in order to clean it. You will need to buy a can of electrical contact cleaner and a can of compressed air like you use for keyboards. Both can be had at Radio Shack and both come with the red extension tube that fits the spray nozzle. First move the seat all the way back, then disconnect the battery, remove the sound deadeners, remove the two 10mm bolts at bottom of knee bolster, use your fingertips to pry the sentinel/dimmer assembly and trunk/fuel door release assembly from dash (leave harnesses connected and let dangle) to expose the remaining two 10mm bolts securing knee bolster, remove knee bolster, remove 10 amp fuse for Air Bag, disconnect SIR (air bag) yellow connector at lower left corner behind ins panel, tilt wheel up, use 3/16 or 5mm nutdriver to remove 3 screws securing steering wheel top cover (note that 1 screw is accessed thru the opening for the tilt lever while the other 2 are located on either side of the column closest to the lense/guages), remove 3 more of the same small tapping screws securing the lower steering wheel cover to column, remove black ring of text around ignition lock by pulling straight out, upper and lower covers can now be unsnapped and removed. With your left ear against the mirror control looking just forward of where the stalk goes to the column, you will see 5 tiny holes in a semi-circular pattern. When turning the headlamp switch you can see the contacts moving from hole to hole. Spray contact cleaner in the holes and immediately follow up with the compressed air can to flush out the contact cleaner. Move the headlamp switch rapidly thru all the detents and repeat several times with the contact cleaner followed by several bursts of compressed air to flush out the excess cleaner and dry. When finished, wait 30 minutes to make sure contacts are thoroughly dry then reconnect battery and test. Hopefully all is well and like me you just saved some major $

Hello, Would this problem cause the parking lights to flash on/off after the car is turned off? Also, have the clicking noise under the driver's side dash. The headlights are working fine it is just the parking lights not shutting off. Thanks for any help on this matter. Lou

[brihoo2k]

Great post thumpin unfortunately it didnt cure my problem. It probably would have in days gone by but my multi-function light switch wouldnt even pass a continuity test. After calling the dealer and finding out that it cost over $400 dollars for just the switch I decided to take matters in my own hands and got out the factory service manual. I studied the wiring diagrams throughly and came to the conclusion that I would cut the wires that supplied power to the headlights and parking lights. In the book it shows it to be a white wire for the head lights and a grey wire with a black stripe for the parking. Well on my 97 it was a yellow in place of the white I cut and taped those two wires and my problems were over. Of course the multi-function switch doesnt work anymore but it wasnt working before I started and I never used them anyway. I would not suggest this to anyone except in extreme cases

[steve009]

Originally Posted by radvra

My 97 had the same problem...headlights stay on forever until you disconnect the battery. I took it to an Olds mechanic who replaced the left side switch assembly...wish I had known about this cleaning procedure...maybe next time! Part was $300+

Hi i did what you guys said but i didn't remove anytihng but the rubber around the multi switch and sprayed away and it solved my problem.
I had spent $100.00 in Light Control Modules Thats where the clicking is coming from and hours tring to find a 1997 aurora that is compatable.
So thats again!