mutiple questions involving changing an engine

[HeWhoKillz]

Questions
and a video to go with it


1.Where the is the power steering pump? I was told on the fron of the engine but I fail to see any sort of pump.

2. You will have to watch the video, it may not even have to come off of the engine but I point it out in the video.

3. Why must you only take one wheel off, taking out the right axle? Don't you have to take both sides out? Because the transmission has to come out with the engine right? Even if it didn't, I would think it would be hard to put back in since you have to line everything up since its a 5 speed right?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27ChnyacyBM

[shorod]

Hewhokillz, please only read on if you promise not to turn this Sentra into a cheesy ricer like what you show at the end of the video.

If you still have a belt routing diagram under the hood, it should show the location of the pump. Since you have a power steering reservoir, your car apparently has power steering. Have you tried following the hoses from the power steering reservoir to the pump? It probably is the large pulley near the firewall that briefly appears in the video.

For the shift linkage, have you looked underneath to see how the assembly is retained? It might use a cotter key or similar.

I agree that you probably also have to remove the left half shaft as well, but this leads to my next paragraph....

What year Sentra is that? Providing specific information may help get better answers, as well as if you were to move the thread to the vehicle specific forum.

-Rod

[HeWhoKillz]

Originally Posted by shorod

Hewhokillz, please only read on if you promise not to turn this Sentra into a cheesy ricer like what you show at the end of the video.

If you still have a belt routing diagram under the hood, it should show the location of the pump. Since you have a power steering reservoir, your car apparently has power steering. Have you tried following the hoses from the power steering reservoir to the pump? It probably is the large pulley near the firewall that briefly appears in the video.

For the shift linkage, have you looked underneath to see how the assembly is retained? It might use a cotter key or similar.

I agree that you probably also have to remove the left half shaft as well, but this leads to my next paragraph....

What year Sentra is that? Providing specific information may help get better answers, as well as if you were to move the thread to the vehicle specific forum.

-Rod

no im not turning this sentra into a ricer. even if i was you mean i should not read on all because i have my own intrests? the ricer is a corolla and i plan to put an ae111 engine with a 6 speed transmission in it and it just so happens the my sentra threw a rod so now i have the chance to practice taking an engine out and putting one in before i move on to that. the sentra is a 93. ive posted numerous videos and questions up about it cause i threw a rod apparently and im taking the engine out. this is probably about the 5th video/question thread thing i have posted so alot of others already know whats going on so i haven't posted the year of the car lately. the only problem with posting in the sentra forum area thing is cause when i do i don't get as many answers. i don't need a specific answer just a general idea of what im supposed to do. I shall check the power steering pulley cause that does make sense. I was told it was on the front of the engine so it was getting frustrating.

[Moppie]

1, That corolla needs to be burned.

2, What Shorod said about the power steering pump, just follow the lines from the resoviour.

3, Your in so far over your head this is going to be a huge learning experiance

4, Generally if your only removing the g/box you can get away with only removing on drive shaft, as the other comes as the box comes off.
From experiance this is easier said that done on some cars than it is on others.
In your situation I would remove to, simply because you need to pull the gear box and engine out as a complete unit.

4, The g/shift linage is the bit your pointing too and not sure about.
It looks like they use cable linkage.
That linkage operates the black level on the gear box which swaps the cogs, there should be two linkages I believe?

The small pin you twiddled with your finger should have a split bin holding it in.
Pull that out, pull the pin out and the linkage will come off.

[curtis73]

Easy gents... he'll do fine. He's asking intelligent questions, providing video, and not diving in without proceeding cautiously. And besides, the rice-tastic toyota is balanced out by the 69 camaro.

The bracket and cable on the transmission is your clutch linkage, not shifter. There is nothing sophisticated about it. I think you are supposed to drill out or grind off that rivet holding it on the arm, then replace the rivet when you are reinstalling.

The power steering pump is clear at the back and uses the inner belt. Outer belt does alternator and A/C. Inner belt does water pump and PS pump. PS pump will be the furthest back pulley.

Both axles need to come out. Not sure why the book says only one side wheel. The axles are held in the hubs by bolts, and retained in the transmission by a little metal ring clip on the splined insert. The ring clip just passively rests in a groove inside. I little pry on the axle from a long screwdriver or crow bar will get it started out. What I do is just unbolt the hub assembly from the strut and let it hang out. Then you can pry the axle out of the transmission, and usually have enough room to get it out without taking the axle out of the hub. Auto Zone has axles for cheap, so it might be a good time to go ahead and swap them out if they haven't been done recently. Reinstalling the axle is the reverse. I get it started in the splines of the transmission, then rock the hub assembly up to "hammer" it back in. Take care not to pull the bearings out of the CV knuckle. Some are easy to just slide back in, others are royal pain, so try not to pull on the axle.

The transmission doesn't have to come out with the engine, but boy is it a lot easier. If your transmission has a drain plug, do that first, otherwise you'll have unpredictable oil dumping out when you remove the axles.

[HeWhoKillz]

Originally Posted by curtis73

Easy gents... he'll do fine. He's asking intelligent questions, providing video, and not diving in without proceeding cautiously. And besides, the rice-tastic toyota is balanced out by the 69 camaro.

The bracket and cable on the transmission is your clutch linkage, not shifter. There is nothing sophisticated about it. I think you are supposed to drill out or grind off that rivet holding it on the arm, then replace the rivet when you are reinstalling.

The power steering pump is clear at the back and uses the inner belt. Outer belt does alternator and A/C. Inner belt does water pump and PS pump. PS pump will be the furthest back pulley.

Both axles need to come out. Not sure why the book says only one side wheel. The axles are held in the hubs by bolts, and retained in the transmission by a little metal ring clip on the splined insert. The ring clip just passively rests in a groove inside. I little pry on the axle from a long screwdriver or crow bar will get it started out. What I do is just unbolt the hub assembly from the strut and let it hang out. Then you can pry the axle out of the transmission, and usually have enough room to get it out without taking the axle out of the hub. Auto Zone has axles for cheap, so it might be a good time to go ahead and swap them out if they haven't been done recently. Reinstalling the axle is the reverse. I get it started in the splines of the transmission, then rock the hub assembly up to "hammer" it back in. Take care not to pull the bearings out of the CV knuckle. Some are easy to just slide back in, others are royal pain, so try not to pull on the axle.

The transmission doesn't have to come out with the engine, but boy is it a lot easier. If your transmission has a drain plug, do that first, otherwise you'll have unpredictable oil dumping out when you remove the axles.

Now I have no idea. Two said it was the shift linkage and another says clutch linkage. However, I shall have to look in the book and see what it says on how to take about both items. The book fails to show good pictures is the problem. I have only had the car for about 2 years so I doubt the axles have ever been changed. Everything I have taken apart comes off like its never been removed. Id kind of like to change the clutch too when I get the engine and transmission out.

[shorod]

You'll rarely find Curtis wrong on something....but then again the same could be said for Moppie. It sounds like Curtis is typing from experience with this particular car, I was typing based on general knowledge. I rewatched the beginning of the video and don't see a clutch master cylinder, so it would appear you have a manual clutch and the linkage may be for the clutch rather than shift linkage. I assumed an automatic transaxle.

-Rod

[vgames33]

I'm pretty sure the B13 Sentra has a cable clutch.

[Moppie]

Yip, Curtis is right.


Getting the hubs off the axles is usally one of the hardest bits if you have never done it before.


Post more videos as you go

[HeWhoKillz]

Originally Posted by Moppie

Yip, Curtis is right.


Getting the hubs off the axles is usally one of the hardest bits if you have never done it before.


Post more videos as you go

I haven't gotten to the hubs or whatever. I'm sure the book will explain to take it off when I get there but how would you suggest getting it off?

[curtis73]

Originally Posted by shorod

You'll rarely find Curtis wrong on something -Rod

Thanks... do you mind if I forward this to my wife?

[Moppie]

Originally Posted by HeWhoKillz

I haven't gotten to the hubs or whatever. I'm sure the book will explain to take it off when I get there but how would you suggest getting it off?

They look simple.
Once you get the wheel off, you will see a huge nut with a split pin through it in the middle of the hub.
You need a nice socket that will fit, and either a big airgun, or a big prybar, and be glad its not a Honda

Then you need to seperate the lower control arm from the hub, which I believe will require a ball joint splitter.
After that you can pull the complete hub, brake and strut assembly away from the car, and off the end of the axle.

Originally Posted by curtis73

Thanks... do you mind if I forward this to my wife?

She would simply assume that Shorod is wrong

[HeWhoKillz]

Originally Posted by Moppie

They look simple.
Once you get the wheel off, you will see a huge nut with a split pin through it in the middle of the hub.
You need a nice socket that will fit, and either a big airgun, or a big prybar, and be glad its not a Honda

Then you need to seperate the lower control arm from the hub, which I believe will require a ball joint splitter.
After that you can pull the complete hub, brake and strut assembly away from the car, and off the end of the axle.

Why a pry bar? How hard is it to get off with just a socket? How would you use a pry bar? I have done numerous brake jobs so I know about the disk brakes and components around there including the tie rods and control arm so I'm in familiar territory now. The axle is probably the only foreign item in the wheel well. Would some wd-40 be ideal for this? Like I said, most everything is coming off like its never been removed. If this hub is so tough to get off then I'm screwed haha. And why not a Honda?

I'm also going to check out an engine from a junkyard. Has 36000k on it (or so they say.) Anything i should do or check specifially with the engine?

[shorod]

Originally Posted by HeWhoKillz

Has 36000k on it (or so they say.)

Wow, 36 million miles!?! Even though that's probably some record, I would stay away from that engine, there's got to be some wear on it.

If you can find a drop-in engine with something more like, say, 36k miles, that's probably just getting broken in. If you can see the entire donor car, that may tell you a bit more about the likely condition of the engine. If it's been riced out (no offense) that may mean more money was spent of accessories than on maintenance, and the engine's probably been run pretty hard. If the tires are bald, that may be an indication that other maintenance items were neglected as well. If all you can go by is the engine by itself, then you can check the dipstick for oil condition, peer inside the valve cover oil fill cap for signs of sludge, check the underside of the oil fill cap for evidence of condensation, etc. Check the vacuum lines to see if they've been muddled with, pull the spark plugs to make sure all four look like they have been burning well, check the backside of the throttle plate for carbon build up, and look for any signs of oil or coolant leaks.

While you have the engine out, even though it's low miles, it may be in your best interest to replace the timing belt and water pump along with any rubber parts that will be difficult to get to once the engine is in the car. If the engine has been sitting outdoors, the UV could have started to degrade vacuum lines, heater hoses, belts, etc..

-Rod

[Moppie]

Originally Posted by HeWhoKillz

Why a pry bar? How hard is it to get off with just a socket? How would you use a pry bar? I have done numerous brake jobs so I know about the disk brakes and components around there including the tie rods and control arm so I'm in familiar territory now. The axle is probably the only foreign item in the wheel well. Would some wd-40 be ideal for this? Like I said, most everything is coming off like its never been removed. If this hub is so tough to get off then I'm screwed haha. And why not a Honda?

I'm also going to check out an engine from a junkyard. Has 36000k on it (or so they say.) Anything i should do or check specifially with the engine?

Prybar = powerbar, handle extension etc.
The nuts are big, and usually put on with lots of torque, so they needs lots of force to undo them.
The ones on Hondas are put one with even more torque than most other makes, and usually need more than human force to undo.
The ones on your car should be undoable, just don't expect it to be easy