Concept Sidwinder Engine build!

[white_R34]

hello all I have been working on my Dodge sidewinder truck. I wanted to make it as real as possible so I took some time to look over all the images I have on the truck. I didn't know how they linked the throttle bodies in the engine valve cover til now the pic ihave show the truck when it came out at it's first SEMA Show. So I wanted to make all the linkage out of sheet plastic. but I have so much thin Brass sheet and like the way it makes thing look more real. so I used that and all that sheet plastic. I needed valve covers off a the VTS truck the valve cover that come in this kit are rong for this build soI mad moldes of the right ones and placed them on the engine. First images of the engine at the start then the brass linkage and wireing stuff.

















man this stuff takes a long time to do.
sorry but the heading was "Sidewinder"


Oops I didn't see you down there sorry for running you over!
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t248/White_r34/

[sib80]

Hey white_R34!

I get my Sidewinder kit soon, so i'll follow ur thread sure!
Nice build till now. Check out the red stripes on the intake manifold
there are 3 stripes instead of only 2.
I'm thinking of build a Sidewinder II, by putting the Viper II engine-tranny-suspension and seats into it.

greets

[white_R34]

Back with more, Yes sid I filled in the rib in the middle with testors Contour putty white Then smoothe it out so that there are only two ribbs showing. Then I thought the air in take cover looked to fack so I drilled around the air intake to make the cover look more real. I replaced the throttle link bar with a peace of thick wire and not black plastic.





The water fill tank was to long so I made it shorter so I't wont block the oil fill cap;


I had to add a linkage line holder to the setup:

Time to paint I mixed Fl-Black with Fl-white to make a light gray for the intake plenum.
I mixed Silver and white for the air fillter cover. by the way in the kit the logos on near the sides are not on the real truck, just silver.


I used DM engine detail set cap cover.

I'm work ing on the oil dip stick now the 1 image is the real one and the place where to drill.


Next I'm working on the front suspension,Exaust assembly,rear suspension-and frame work up. Your going to love the way I'm going to do the color on the headers and the rebuilt exhaust assembly.
wooooooooooooo still working


Oops I didn't see you down there sorry for running you over!
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t248/White_r34/

[Fabbri_Guy]

cool detail, i love doing the engines. I think thats the main reason i buy kits!!! Nice job keep up the good work, can't wait to see more.

[Dave5.0]

Great work, I love seeing someone take it to the next level in the engine bay with good detail and realisim!

[white_R34]

I will post images soon but can't get photobucket to come up. I have the engine and Frame with wheel an tires on. Soon as Photobucket comes up I will post all the images and there are a lot. well I'm still have some trouble bring up Photobucket for all the images, so i thought if you all can get photobucket to come up on your PC's you will see what I have bine doing and what has takeing so long to get back on here and show all the images of this build. Heres a link to my album hope it works for you all!
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t248/White_r34/

[MidnightWangan]

Tons of great stuff in there, that's no album, it's a mini encyclopedia.

[white_R34]

OK OK got it to come up I'll post some right now.
Now you know that after I made the dip stick hole I said some thing about the Exaust assembly well I thought that this build should be built like the real one so I decided to chop up the Exaust line and add some thing you all have seen on real Exaust pipes ends or connections these parts are made out of Styreen plastic (evergreen). 015 thick [Plain] then use .025 rod for the bolts. heres the first images of that build the the dip stick thats made from thick racing car wire [black].









now I only used a lite amount of chrome paint to get that black chrome look. They tell mae thats what pipes look like befor you heat them up and the thin look like brass. if this pips where allready chromed I would have made them have that brass and blue burn look sorry and No I don't have decals for that will. "there on there way"

this is just the dip stick in place.



I wanted my model to look even more like the real thing so i used some of my Resin Disc Brakes from the reference photos from the artists in HOT ROD Mag. the brakes where big the ones that come in the kit are not right for me so I used my brakes.



I had to make some coil overs to make the look of real suspension. [A lot went in to this]:


[THIS IS A TEST SHOT FOR THE RIGHT SIZE] of coil:

ones I found the right size and type,(on the left the copper coil was to thin, on the right the plastic cotted wire was the right thickness that I needed).
I then used a 3/32 rod of brass (K&S # 5126) to rap the wire around, to acheve the right and same size as the cut off stock.

I then drilled out some (not to deep holes) for mounting the fack shocks, which are made of rod styrene (.025 # 219 for the small one-3/64" # 221 for the large silinder)this is done for front and back suspensions:





I should have shown the images of the rolling chassis but the up load images part of photobuckets not up yet but i eill post images of that soon. Back the the build The Cool Can I made on for my Mustang II Pro. I used my image as a reference point to make the only 2 I have made. what i used the make the cool can (K&S 3/16x.014 Alum tube) for the large part and (K&S 1/8x.014 Alum tube) stock #5102,5104. And yes the is a oilsump on the engine. I drilled to holes on the can and I'm going to make some small fitting for my breaded lines I don't have the right size of fitting so I'm going to make them my self.



now I going to paint the rear suspension with the coils on.





OK the Gas tank is to be Red with black straps, the hole "Fram" or Chassis needs to black so I painted the G-tank red and used Liquid Latex as a mask first time ever doint that lol:


this si the cool can and where it's located on the chassis. Oh and Ll the brack lines and oil,gas lines feed in the the box chassis and I'm going to do all that to.

this is to show the hight of the cool can under the body.


now I have more images to show soon as i cant uplode them to photobucket I'll post them there of the true rolling chassis with the wheels and tires on and the mufflers to. Oh Yah for you all how are working on the project or a tuner project the drive shaft is Carbonfiber mmmm the black and gray type this will look good on the under body on most Imports. I'll post the new images soon and thank for looking.
some thing that sliped my mine I for got to tell you, you need to sand off the words on the gas take. Images of that:


now for some more images and the site where I got all the engine views chassis looks from:
http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicl...inder_concept/
just click on the images to see them bigger.
Now on to the chassis build. After you paint over you latex mask remove it and just tuch up the black straps with a fine tip brush.









[Next] the interior paint and flocking work.


Oops I didn't see you down there sorry for running you over!
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t248/White_r34/

[Enzoenvy1]

That is a really nice looking project there. I Have always loved the almost 8,000 cc's that thing pumps out. I would love to try those tires in real life during a rain storm, lol. Keep it comin.

[sib80]

Nice work!
Waiting for the interior !
What is that cool can exactly?

[rsxse240]

a cool can is usually used to let fluids such as oil, gas, or radiator fluid cool down a little before being introduced back to the motor. Generally the cool can will be made of aluminum and placed in a high wind area so as to get the aluminum to "suck" the heat out of the fluid.

[Fabbri_Guy]

Nice work!!! Looks stunning! Keep it up.

[Eric Cole]

That's some impressive work. Great job on the detailing, nice resin casting too!

[white_R34]

ok I have painted the body I'm wating for the paint to dry so I can flock the interior I'm thinking of using MCG-Model Car Garage Tuner Series Custom Pedals (#2256-2257), than the stock one's in the kit. heres some images of the painted body. when this project is over I going to pop some shots of it at sun rise for some cool images.
First these are the parts layed out for prep:

thin mounted parts.

the first two paint coat's I mixed gloss red with gloss yellow to make something like sunrise, thin the next two coats where a heavy amount of amber with 2 drops of orange pearl with a large amount of High Gloss.




Next will be the (Interior work). I'm wating for my DM B-lines and fittings to come in.


Oops I didn't see you down there sorry for running you over!
http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t248/White_r34/

[blubaja]

Color looks awsome! I don't remember, was the 1:1 metallicy pearl? I've never seen it in person. Your color looks almost identical to the hot wheels one tho. Engine and chassis look great also.