Telefonica Blue question

[RyanGiorgio]

Anyone here paint a car with telefonica blue? I just re-sprayed my Z in it tonight, and it looks almost metallic. Is it okay to wax and compund it when finished? Or do i have to resort to a clear? Thanks.

[freakray]

Telefonica blue looks metallic?
You gotta be joking??
Oh well, I guess it is up to us to tell you then, Telefonica blue is a metallic paint.....which means you will have to clear coat it to polish it.
Ray

[RallyRaider]

Yeah Tamiya TS-51 is a metallic or mica colour. Thus, like all metallics it will need a clear coat before before trying to sand or cut it back with a compound. If however you just want to give it a coat of non-abrasive wax without cutting back the surface then it should be fine too.

[bah humbug]

Wait there, let me search back, it is not a metallic color.

[daggerlee]

Telefonica Blue is definitely metallic, you should definitely clearcoat it. But it's a 'dark' color...so if you decide not to, I don't think it would matter. Paint swirls don't show up as easily in dark metallic colors as they do in light metallic colors like silver.

[bah humbug]

Are you sure ? :huh:

Look at synergx's rx-7.http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...threadid=83230

Telefonica blue, no clearcoat, very shiny.

Since it looks shiny I thought it probably wasn't metallic.

[RyanGiorgio]

Hmm....my Z currently isnt that shiny. I think that he used Meguires cleaner - wax, which acts as a primer...sort of. You don't have to prime it because the cleaner wax pushes the paint into the cracks where primer normally would go. So i think i am going to give that a go (even though i have a coat of primer..it shouldn't matter).

[daggerlee]

Well, there are exceptions to every rule. Tamiya spray paints have a lot of reflecting agents (in my opinion) mixed into them, so even an orange peel job from a Tamiya can will still be shiny, although won't be mirror-like in its reflection.

[5ynergyx]

Hi.. Yes.. you are right!! You will get the metallic with Telefonica Blue.
Look at the photo i just taken 1 min ago...
Actually to get a good shine... no matter have metallic or not... you neither have to sand nor use clear coat. They are just wasting time and money. My hint is "Spray your car in outdoor"

[Jay!]

Originally posted by 5ynergyx
Actually to get a good shine... no matter have metallic or not... you neither have to sand nor use clear coat. They are just wasting time and money. My hint is "Spray your car in outdoor"

No, you 'neither have to sand,' etc. What works for you may not work for anyone else, depending on their climate.

[RyanGiorgio]

Trueee that. Mine doesn't even look that metallicy. Look at my sig . I sprayed in 50-60 degrees with the can heated in advance.

[5ynergyx]

Originally posted by jay@af
No, you 'neither have to sand,' etc. What works for you may not work for anyone else, depending on their climate.

Opps... Sorry~ Forgot to tell a important part about spraying your car, that is.. whenever you are going to spray your car, make sure there are no wind blowing~ This is very important as the wind will blow away the shine part when you spray your car. Thanks! :sun:

[RallyRaider]

Originally posted by 5ynergyx

Actually to get a good shine... no matter have metallic or not... you neither have to sand nor use clear coat. They are just wasting time and money.

True by itself. But if you are building competition vehicles requiring masking different colours or applying lots of decals the clear coat is required to provide a protective base for the next layer or decals. If you damage the metallic paint it cannot be repaired easily like a solid colour can.

Also to smooth out the raised edge thet results form masking or decals a clear cost is required followed by sanding the edges smooth. If the metallic is cut by the sandpaper it makes ugly marks. Therefore the clearcoat once again protects the metallic. Some people disagree with this since many (not all!) graphics on racecars are adhesive vinyl cutouts, with a different reflective index to the paintwork. Correct, but these people also choose to ignore the scale centimeter or so thickness of those decals.

Finally real metallic finishes on real cars are finished off with clear coats. Often gradually mixing clear in with the metallic colour until finishing with full clear. This gives more depth to the final finish.

In the end though it is the individual call of the modeller. There is no magical right way. Even if the majority disagree who says you have to be wrong just because a few million people think you are - to paraphrase the late, great Frank Zappa