02 Grand Prix SES light OFF but still getting P0741

[dtunget]

I'm trying to get my grand prix inspected but it's failing because if a P0741 code, but the SES light isn't on. I've been reading about clearing the codes but I wondered if it was normal for a code to be stored with no SES light.

Thanks

[BNaylor]

Absolutely. Some DTCs especially tranny related will not trigger the SES/CEL Mil light but will store. P0741 is torque convertor clutch (TCC) stuck OFF. However, it is not an odb-ii emissions fault. I don't see why a code stored in history is causing an inspection failure but I guess it depends on how your state conducts the inspection and their parameters.

I would have the DTC cleared or PCM reset and see if it returns.

[dtunget]

Originally Posted by bnaylor

Absolutely. Some DTCs especially tranny related will not trigger the SES/CEL Mil light but will store. P0741 is torque convertor clutch (TCC) stuck OFF. However, it is not an odb-ii emissions fault. I don't see why a code stored in history is causing an inspection failure but I guess it depends on how your state conducts the inspection and their parameters.

I would have the DTC cleared or PCM reset and see if it returns.

Can the autozone guys clear the DTC or should I do the procedures that I find online?

[BNaylor]

It is now against Autozone's policy to clear any history DTCs and/or the SES/CEL light. An inexpensive odb-ii scanner will clear history codes. You can get the cheapy model Actron odb-ii scanners for under $60 if you are in a bind. Autozone carries them. Another method would be to disconnect the battery negative cable for a few hours or overnight but no guarantee that will work.

Now not all Actron scanners are cheapy. They make good ones too but are more expensive.

[dtunget]

The autozone guy let me clear my own codes with their scanner

Now the problem is that the car fails inspection because of the monitor "readiness" they say I need to complete a drive cycle. Anyone know how long that is for the 02 GP? It did pass for the diagnostic codes though. All I have to do now is clear the drive cycle and go back to autozone, see if I have any new codes, if not, go back to the inspection station.

[BNaylor]

It varies can't remember off the top of my head but reference the material below. Try the universal test. If you had an odb-ii scanner you can connect it to the ALDL port and see it flag ready while driving it. I doubt Autozone will do that for you but they should be able to tell you if IM readiness status is a "GO".

RUNNING AN OBDII DRIVE CYCLE

The purpose of completing an OBD II drive cycle is to force the vehicle to run its onboard diagnostics. Some form of a drive cycle needs to be performed after DTCs have been erased from the PCM’s memory or after the battery has been disconnected. Running through a vehicle’s complete drive cycle will “set” the readiness monitors so that future faults can be detected (and potentially to pass the inspection). Drive cycles vary depending on the vehicle and the monitor that needs to be re-set. Whenever possible, follow the drive trace prescribed for the specific vehicle/monitor in question. Some vehicle-specific drive cycles can be found in the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.

The following “universal” drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This generic OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to “sit” overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.

Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

[dtunget]

There's really a $60 scanner that I can buy? What about my laptop and a cable? Is that a possibility? I have 2 cars that are aging....having a scanner woulnd't be a bad thing. What does the expensive one do that the cheap one doesn't?

[BNaylor]

Since you live in a odb-ii state it not a bad idea to have one. In Texas I run the scanner and check for IM readiness within hours before annual inspection which is at the ALDL port. No exhaust sniffer test anymore.

There is the low cost Actron but it wouldn't do you any good for IM status. Great for clearing DTCs, getting generic DTC codes and clearing the SES/CEL light. The ones in the middle would be better. There are other brands too. Here is the Actron web site.

http://www.actron.com/product_category.php?id=249

I have the CP9125 Pocket Scanner and the better CP9145.

Autotap is a good program that works with laptops.

[dtunget]

I'm thinking about buying the CP9180 from Autozone for $179.99.