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| Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music. |
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#1
08-27-2002, 06:30 PM
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PICS: start of sub-pod and hatch floor
Hey all, just started working on my "interior beutification" project... Here's some pics of the start of my fiberglass speaker pod and some pics of the start of the floor for the back-seat/hatch area...
Picture of the sub-pod pieces after being cut from 3/4" MDF... The "peanut" shape will be the base of the pod:  Pictures of the pieces being test-fit together. You can see the general shape of the pod taking place:   Pics of the pieces glued together from different angles:   Next step is to stretch the fleece and add resin. Then I'll re-inforce the inside with fiberglass matting, and reinforce the outside with fiberglass cloth, then sand/bondo. Then it'll be painted yellow to match the interior trim pieces. The subs (two 10" Kicker solobaric S10's) will be mounted inverted with the magnets outside the box... Pictures of the hatch-are floor that I made. There is alot of clearance room underneath the rim/tire, and that's where I'm mounting my battery and 1 farad cap... Still in the process of making a template for another "floor" section where the back-seats used to be... that will be where the sub-pod will be mounted...   Hope you like. I'll post more pics as I progress... P • E • A • C • E Mike T.
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#2
08-28-2002, 01:05 AM
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Wow thats a great shape. I want to see how you stretch the fleace. are they going to be conected boxes or split apart?
Keep us posted on how it all turns out. Also i got mine about 90% done and will post the finished product pictures. but looking good so far.
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#4
08-28-2002, 02:38 AM
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The sub pod will be a single unit, but possible with a divider between the two subs...
I'm just going to stretch the fleece over the top, and staple it to the underside of the base. So there will be a slight dip in the fabric between the two mounting rings. Here's a quick photoshop example: 
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#5
08-28-2002, 02:53 AM
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that is gonna be sick when your done
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 AF Teen CrewPurehonda.com - may she rest in peace 1996 Chevy C1500, Flowmaster Exhaust, Tinted Windows, 2 Kicker 10" L7 Subs, Eclipse 5v headunit, Alpine V12 Amp DJM 4/6 drop kit being sold Full Throttle 9.5 inch lift being installed 1989 CRX si "silver mist"---SOLD---.....Stripped and Wrecked in Compton  corbeau forza 2 seats, DC short shifter, Powerslot slotter rotors, AEM brake pads, Bfgoodridge Stainless steel brake lines, Greddy MX exhaust, AEM Cold Air Intake, Konig Rated-R rims, Kamikazi header Make an Offer [email protected]
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#6
08-28-2002, 03:02 AM
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Nice! that will be sweet. Are you going for SPL or SQ with this? cause the seprate enclosures will sound better while the shared will probably hit lower.
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#7
08-28-2002, 06:29 PM
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Deffinitely going for SQ (if that stands for Sound Quality). I'm not all about having a really loud system, I just want it to sound good.
Stretched the fleece today, came out beautiful. However the pics I took didn't come out very well at all. Here's one anyways: 
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#8
08-28-2002, 06:55 PM
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Aha! Adjusted the brightness/contrast for a better picture:
 As you can see, I need to re-stretch the center of it a little better... May possible add another set of rings over the fleece to hold it better, but I'm trying to avoid doing that...
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#9
08-28-2002, 10:00 PM
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I think this is gonna look cool when you are done ....... makes me want to go out and get (re)started on the rex.
Are you moving the battery to the back, or are you gonna put a spare battery back there ?
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#10
08-28-2002, 11:42 PM
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I'm moving the battery. Give me more room in my engine bay, and balance my weight a little bit better.
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#11
08-29-2002, 06:32 PM
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just be careful ........ moving the battery to the back (and running a power wire to the front) may result in nasty engine noise problems. Might wanna test it out first before you make too many mods.
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#12
08-29-2002, 07:26 PM
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Well, I was planning on running the 2 guage battery cable down the passenger side of the car, and the audio cables down the other side to put as much distance between them... Would this help?
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#13
08-30-2002, 09:43 AM
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try running it thru some conduit UNDER the car ...... then you just need a relativlely small hole in the trunk/hatch area where the wire comes thru. If you are gonna do that, you might want to consider welders cable - it is better for "outside stuff." You would run the wire thru the conduit to the length you need, then hang the conduit like you would an exhaust system - only keep it closer to the body.
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#14
08-30-2002, 02:40 PM
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Hmmm... I don't really want to do that... What if I ran it through some conduit inside the car? Would that help shield it better? Or, I could build some kind of sheet-metal shielding for it...
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#15
08-30-2002, 04:23 PM
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the metal would have to be a mu-metal sheild and relatively thick. The best "sheild" is distance. The farther away the power wire is from everything else, the better.
DISCLAIMER: please notice that I am not talking about a power wire for just the stereo - this is a power wire from the alternator to the battery, and it must be treated a little differently than a normal power wire for just the amps/stereo.
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