need help.. i ruined the paint!

[ton394]

the kit is a civic sir 2, i primer it.. paint it and leave it for 10 days after that it came with an orange peel and then wet sand with a 1000 grit the problem is that i accidentally sand of the paint down to the primer and then it worse.. what should i do? strip the paint and start over again? or could it be fix with a tamiya primer and paint it again?




this one is deeper (above pic)




ps.
3 coats of primer
3 mist coat
4 coats to finish
maybe i paint it too light?

[hirofkd]

1000 grit sounds a bit too coarse for removing orange peel. The surface looks already smooth, so adding a few more coats of paint shouldn't cause severe orange peel. Use 2000 grit to smooth the surface, and if there's any orange peel you can't remove with it (meaning it's expected to take too much time to do it), use 1500 grit instead.

[Guiddy]

Noooooo!
You should have stopped the moment you rubbed through one area!
1000 grit on a finished paint surface is suicide!
Primer and spray again, there is too much plastic showing to get away with it, especially as you'll rub more on the high points again.
You can primer over the current paint with no problems, but next time use a cutting compound and not papers unless it is the polishing system, but even that will rub through unless you are soooooooooo careful!

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by Guiddy

Noooooo!
You should have stopped the moment you rubbed through one area!
1000 grit on a finished paint surface is suicide!
Primer and spray again, there is too much plastic showing to get away with it, especially as you'll rub more on the high points again.
You can primer over the current paint with no problems, but next time use a cutting compound and not papers unless it is the polishing system, but even that will rub through unless you are soooooooooo careful!

Precisely. This is what the body should have looked like after sanding the first coats of primer, not the finished coats of paint. Too many rub-through's now, it must be reprimed. As it is now, it's a smooth in-process primer coat.

I would NOT strip the paint; it's smooth enough and the details/panel lines are still crisp. Re-apply the primer as thin as possible, then carefully respray the color, and carefully polish that out.

[ton394]

is it okay if i patch only the scratches with tamiya a liquid primer and respray the paint (the one in the pic)? or do i have to respray the whole body with a spraycan primer?

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by ton394

is it okay if i patch only the scratches with tamiya a liquid primer and respray the paint (the one in the pic)? or do i have to respray the whole body with a spraycan primer?

Only if those primer patches are the same color as the paint around them. With most colors, especially white, you have to have a uniform primer coat or you will still see the mismatched color patches below the final paint.

[ton394]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoomMX-5

Only if those primer patches are the same color as the paint around them. With most colors, especially white, you have to have a uniform primer coat or you will still see the mismatched color patches below the final paint.

so respray it with a primer is a lot better than patching it up. do i need to strip all the paint sir? or respray the primer at the top of the white paint?

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by ton394

so respray it with a primer is a lot better than patching it up. do i need to strip all the paint sir? or respray the primer at the top of the white paint?

The answer is in post #4 above

[ton394]

Originally Posted by ZoomZoomMX-5

The answer is in post #4 above

tnx man

[tigeraid]

Ya, I agree, the overall surface still looks fine, just prime again and continue.

I think it's a good idea for you to buy a polishing pad kit as well--Tamiya and Testors both sell one, or you can buy a polishing cloth kit. The grit usually starts at like 3600 grit all the way up to 12000 grit. Then hit it with polish.

[ton394]

finally i repspray it but theres a little problem.. what do you call this textures? is it an orange peel? it appears after i painted 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of tamiya pure white. and how do i get rid of it..?

[Ran]

That looks like orange peel to me. Try wet-sanding with 2000 grit, and if that doesn't remove it - use a 1500 and then 2000... Just please make sure to work slowely and sand a bit at a time so you don't sand through the paint once again.


Edit: don't forget to wait at least a week or two to let the paint dry before sanding and polishing.

[tigeraid]

Yup, that is indeed orange peel. Remember that a LITTLE orange peel isn't so bad, IMO, because it helps add depth to the paint once it's polished. But as Ran says, you can minimize it with careful wet sanding.

[Whumbachumba]

White is very very hard to get a good color out of. I layed down alot of coats when I put it on my Olds 442.

3 mist coats gray primer
wet sand
4 mist white primer
2 medium white primer
1 wet white primer
wet sand
4-5 mist pure white
3 medium pure white
1 wet pure white
After this coat, the white was still looking slightly gray which is why I went for another wet coat.
let sit for 1 day
1 wet pure white
cure for 5+ days.

I've just started polishing and waxing it yesterday. Came out with a really really good finish with minimal orange peel. It also helped that humidit was at like 25% max and the temp was like 110º outside.

[Nutsforcars]

I agree with all the above tips. BTW, I am relatively new at rubbing out paint and had the same problems you have.
Now I have my system down:
I never use more than 2400 grit from a polishing kit to attack orange peel. Also, use at least 4 coats before you rub out. I got best results so far when I used 2-4 coats of base (that's the color) until I am happy with the coverage. If it has orange peel, smooth it out and then spray one more light coat.

Over that I always apply clearcoat. You probably don't need clear for solid colors like white but it helps me with the sanding. I apply an additional 3-4 coats clear, let it cure, then sand starting with 3200 (or 2400 if really rough). The clearcoat will guide the sanding because as soon as you see the actual color in your sandpaper, you know you've gone through. Stop and apply more clear. Also, wetsanding is far superior to dry, IMO.