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Old 06-27-2001, 11:15 PM   #1
ky_infiniti2000
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Where to get an SR20DET

I have decided to look for a det for my 95 g20t. where should i start? what should i watch out for? expected price?

once i get it, i am going to do a complete rebuild or it as well. so stay tuned for the transformation and G20t to G20det!
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Old 06-27-2001, 11:34 PM   #2
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Re: Where to get an SR20DET

Quote:
Originally posted by ky_infiniti2000
I have decided to look for a det for my 95 g20t. where should i start? what should i watch out for? expected price?

once i get it, i am going to do a complete rebuild or it as well. so stay tuned for the transformation and G20t to G20det!
Your best bet is to go to <http://www.se-r.net> or search the SE-R mailing list archives. There are several places to get them. I personally got mine from Soken.

As for rebuilding it, if that is your plan, you may want to consider rebuilding a DE instead. The overall cost will be less. JWT can even tap your block for piston coolers. You could probably pick up a manifold and a T3 or T4OE (I think that's the one), a DE core, and rebuild it for the same or less.

Expect to pay between $1,500 and $2,000 for a DET.
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Old 06-28-2001, 08:14 AM   #3
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Sounds like fun! If your looking to get your DET cheap you may want to organize yourself a trip to my city. In Montreal we have a shop that will sell you ECU,tranny,engine and axles for 2000$ CAD...which if you look at what a canadian dollar is worth compared to US you'll be gettin it all real cheap...chances are you could even get it all installed for 2000$ US MAX!

I could even refer you to a good mechanic.
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Old 06-28-2001, 08:15 AM   #4
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Oh I forgot these motors are imported from Japan with MAXIMUM 50,000 k's on it.
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Old 06-28-2001, 09:12 AM   #5
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Re: Re: Where to get an SR20DET

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Originally posted by P10DET
The overall cost will be less. JWT can even tap your block for piston coolers.
I pulled apart my buddies Mazda BP motor and found that it comes stock with piston coolers. Pretty good little motor that BP. (from Miada, 91+ Escort GT, 323 GTR) Just a little jealous I guess.
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Old 06-29-2001, 11:13 AM   #6
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to rebuild the DE motor to a turbo spec, you would need to find a mainfold off a DET motor...something from the silvias would work (i blieve the turbo is the t3, p10det)...do all the stuff that JWT offers including getting their ecu...u would need bigger injectors...but i would strongly recommend getting the det motor cuz after everything, it would cost around the same but with the det, u get lower compression pistons which allows you to boost more power later on.
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Old 06-29-2001, 03:51 PM   #7
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I dont know much about the differences from the DE and DET blocks and/or heads, but is very common for two engines with the same basic block (one Normally aspirated, one Turbo) to be different. Usually the difference involves coolant passages, oiling systems (more oiling at certain areas), and sometimes reinforcements to the block itself. Starting off with a DET engine would make everything a lot simpler and most likely cheaper, because if you have to do a lot of machine work to a block, it can become decently expensive. Its like buying a car; buying a car all put together is cheaper than buying all of the parts individually to make the car.
Just a side note, the ideal engine block to build a high-performance or race engine would have around 60,000 miles. It was found out in the 60's and 70's by some astute race teams (Penske was one, as was Donahue and the brillaint engineer that worked with him whose name I can't remember right now) that blocks with that many miles produce more relaible power. It has something to do with the way that the metal has aged and become stronger with all of the heat cycles. BMW used 60,000 mile used 2002 and 320i engine blocks as the starting point for all of their insanely powerful (1200hp+) turbocharged formula 1 engines in the 80's.
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Old 06-29-2001, 07:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by qab5b
Starting off with a DET engine would make everything a lot simpler and most likely cheaper, because if you have to do a lot of machine work to a block, it can become decently expensive.
Internally, they engines have almost no differences. The differences are piston coolers and sodium filled valves.

Please keep in mind that ky was talking about buying a DET and then rebuilding it. In fact, it would be cheaper to buy a DE core, rebuild it and have the piston coolers and low compression pistons done at that time. The sodium filled valves are cool (no pun intended), but you can do just as well by getting the valve faces and the combustion chamber coated by Swain Tech. In the end, it would be a cheaper proposition I think. It would really depend upon how good a price you got the DET for vs how good a price you got the turbo components for.

For sure, if you are going to build an engine for over 300bhp, you would be better off financially starting with a DE. I've been through this several times with the SE-R mailing list. To get that kind of power you would have to change the turbo, manifold, injectors, and MAF. Anyway, this is really straying from the discussion.

If I were going to rebuild an SR20 that I wanted turbocharged, I'd probably start with a DE and find a used manifold, turbo, and injectors. You can end up with a better engine for the same or less money.

Quote:
Originally posted by qab5b
Just a side note, the ideal engine block to build a high-performance or race engine would have around 60,000 miles. It was found out in the 60's and 70's by some astute race teams (Penske was one, as was Donahue and the brillaint engineer that worked with him whose name I can't remember right now) that blocks with that many miles produce more relaible power. It has something to do with the way that the metal has aged and become stronger with all of the heat cycles.
I am not 100% certain, but I think that only applies to cast iron blocks and not aluminum blocks.

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Old 06-29-2001, 09:45 PM   #9
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some good info -- service manual?

So, there has been some good info, for/against getting the det. Before i purchase one, i want to get my hands on a service manual for a det. Where can i get a service manual for a det based car?
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Old 06-30-2001, 01:16 AM   #10
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Re: some good info -- service manual?

Quote:
Originally posted by ky_infiniti2000
So, there has been some good info, for/against getting the det. Before i purchase one, i want to get my hands on a service manual for a det. Where can i get a service manual for a det based car?
Basically, if you are going to rebuild, you should at least look into getting a DE core and finding the manifold, turbo, and injectors. You can save money and end up with a better package. But, I am not anti-DET. Shit, I'm installing one tomorrow in my G. I just don't think you should necessarily rebuild it if you go that direction.

As for a DET FSM, you really don't need one. The DE FSM will do the trick. The only things that will be significantly different is the sodium filled valves and the water/oil oil cooler. No biggie.

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Old 06-30-2001, 05:48 PM   #11
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KY...by rebuilding...if you mean overhaul the entire engine...it would be very costly and you better find a shop that knows what thy are doing because all the bearings, valves and allt he internal stuff needs to be balanced and measure with precision or you'll just be wasting your money.
I am also thinking about overhauling the entire motor since i'll be doing lots of road races so by overhauling it...it's basically like getting a brand new engine...but labor alone will cost me around $1500 and tha'ts consider cheap.
anyway, IMO, i would start off with the DET. But P10det also made good points on why you should start with DE, however, either case, both engine will be the same, DE wont be better nor worse.
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Old 07-18-2001, 01:19 AM   #12
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Well there are two obvious choices. If you want to just have like 220 or 230 horsepower. Just buy a JDM SR20DET and drop it in your car, don't even bother to rebuild it. Cuz chances are that the motor you get will be in pretty good shape. To build your SR20DE into a turbo motor, you would need alot of parts to make it work reliably (pistons, injectors, manifold, gaskets, and all that other stuff). You would be better off just to buy a SR20DET and dropping it into you car. Import Intelligence has SR20DETs for 2400$ which includes tranny, ecu, and wiring harness. They usually have less than 25,000 Kilometers on the clock and come out of Bluebirds. They say 10PSI will yield 205hp while 16PSI will yield 280hp which is max boost for the stock turbo. Shipping is 100$ to 300$.

Not to mention the absence of head aches that just swapping a motor will have when compared to building a turbo motor.

Not to mention that dropping in a motor would only take a day or two. While rebuilding the SR20DE into a turbo would take alot of time, so be prepared to deal with alot of downtime.
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Old 07-18-2001, 01:58 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by G22DET
anyway, IMO, i would start off with the DET. But P10det also made good points on why you should start with DE, however, either case, both engine will be the same, DE wont be better nor worse.
Quite correct Luke. BTW, all I'm saying is look at the cost of doing it both ways. If you plan on a rebuild and over 260hp, I think you will find the DE to be as good or better cost wise and it will function just as well.

JWT can install the piston coolers.
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Old 07-18-2001, 02:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by FlossinPrimera
Well there are two obvious choices. If you want to just have like 220 or 230 horsepower. Just buy a JDM SR20DET and drop it in your car, don't even bother to rebuild it. Cuz chances are that the motor you get will be in pretty good shape.
Bingo!

Quote:
Originally posted by FlossinPrimera
Import Intelligence has SR20DETs for 2400$ which includes tranny, ecu, and wiring harness.
That's way over priced. You should be able to get that for $1,500-1,700.

Quote:
Originally posted by FlossinPrimera
They say 10PSI will yield 205hp while 16PSI will yield 280hp which is max boost for the stock turbo.
It's actually 205 hp at 7 psi. The T25 should not be boosted to 16 psi. That is way too much for that little turbo and it becomes highly inefficient with terribly high compressor outlet temps.
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Old 07-19-2001, 01:03 AM   #15
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Quote:
That's way over priced. You should be able to get that for $1,500-1,700.
Where, let me know, if its that cheap I will reconsider staying N/A
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