No Heat

[rossxwin]

I have a 93 Taurus with no heat. I took it to a mechanic that told me I have a problem with the Blend door. He quoted me 7 1/2 hrs labor because it involved removing the dashboard to get at it. The cost was so astronomical I'm faced with driving the car without heat until I can fix it myself. Trouble is I don't know where to begin on a job that big. Anyone have any good sources on details for getting the dashboard out?

[tammyo]

did he test to see if the heater core was o.k?
my husbands ford truck had a problem with that door I am sure there is a way to get to it, maybe call another dealer ask for the garage and just act like you know what your doing and ask how to get to that door the easiest way.
worth the try, some garages are too eager for work some are too busy and will offer advice.
tammyo

[cpettymore7777]

to see if it is the blender try this. the blender is run of voltage (off of the key ignition i think). turn on the key, don't start the car. turn the temp knob back and forth. you should hear a wirring sound, like a small motor working. if you hear this the blender should be working. if it is working that will open another list of things to check. let us know

[frag24]

try reading the one that shows 10 sec heat and about cooling system, i think the best thing you can do is to flush the heater core system and change thermostat.

[doggie]

I used to have same problem. I have change thermostat, heater core, and flushing whole system. Problem is still there. Then one day, I have driving belt problem, I have a chace to see the water pump. Everything is rust inside. I wonder about the quality of the material Ford used in the taurus car. I change water pump. Everything works fine. You should try see the water pump. If your coolant is really rusted and dirty.

[Dan_in_WA]

Originally Posted by rossxwin

I have a 93 Taurus with no heat. I took it to a mechanic that told me I have a problem with the Blend door. He quoted me 7 1/2 hrs labor because it involved removing the dashboard to get at it. The cost was so astronomical I'm faced with driving the car without heat until I can fix it myself. Trouble is I don't know where to begin on a job that big. Anyone have any good sources on details for getting the dashboard out?

First, what do you have in the way of a heater control? Do you have the usual knob that you turn to the left, or right?

If this is what you have, you may be in luck. Because behind this knob is all the linkage and cable stuff - just like the speed control on your lawnmower. It's a fairly simple system. And the control isn't that hard to get to the back of.

Or are you stuck with the fancy digital temperature control?

[irish30]

The blend door on your vehicle should be vacuum operated. Pull the centre part of the dash where the heater controls are and make sure there is no vacuum lines off. When you change the air flow from hot to cold or visa-versa you should hear the vacuum sshh noise. Start the car, let it run for 1-2 min to build a vacuum. Then turn it off. Right away turn the key to the run position and change the heat selector. You should hear the sshh noise and you won't have the engine noise disguising it. If you hear the noise the door should be working. Then look at other options for heat distribution.

[rossxwin]

I appreciate all the suggestions that were made. I eliminated a number of possible causes.
1. Changed the thermostat.
2. Replaced the water pump.
3. Back flushed the heater core. (heater core was clear)
4. Listened for the blend door whirring sound with the engine off. (I could hear it when I moved the heat control knob back and forth)
As the mornings get colder I'm suddenly motivated to get this problem fixed or get rid of the car. This car has air conditioning. The car has dial controls. It's simply a knob that turns to adjust cold to warm. With the heater on and the car warm I turn the dial clockwise all the way to the hottest position and the air coming out is cool. I notice a clicking sound approx. every 15 or 20 seconds. It's the sound that the air compressor makes when it kicks on and off to control the cooled air when the AC is on. Is this normal? I'm running out of possible causes.

[mwt]

It is the blend door. I had the same problem on my 94.

I let someone else do it and it was pretty expensive. I can't remember the price. But it fixed the problem. I did all the test you ahve done thinking it was the heater core etc.

The complete dash does have to come out.

Mike

[chiefifd]

Are the lines running along the firewall ok? I flushed my heater core and found my steel lines were almost rusted through...maybe your lines are plugged a bit and not allowing any coolant to the core.. I replaced mine with Gates hoses and 90% connectors and it rose my air temp 35 degrees.....

[irish30]

Put the heat on defrost. This is a default that will give you heat to the windshield. It is a safety thing that the defrost should allways work. If you can feel that there is good heat in that selection then you need a blend door motor, or parts replaced in the air box. The A/C will engage in the defrost position. This is normal. The A/C removes the moisture from the air, this clears the windshield faster if the air blowing on it is dry.

[LanHill]

Check the coolant sensing fitting... it may be plugged. A garage told me my heater core was plugged. I decided to check myself before spending money. I connected a hose to my heater core at the the firewall and poured hot water through. The vents blew warm air and there wasn't a blockage! I tried to pour water through the rest of the cooling system and found a blocked 3" pipe (coolant sensing fitting) hanging off the thermostat. I tried to poke the blockage and the pipe started to leak... it was also blocked and corroded! The pipe has a couple temperature sensors in it... since it was replaced, I have plenty of heat.