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#1 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 79
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Automatic Transmission Cooler Installation
Here are some instructions for installing the 20,000 lb rated trans cooler from AutoZone in the Xterra. Enjoy!
Trans Cooler Installation Instructions |
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#2 | |
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XTerra Guy
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
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Another great contribution. Thanks Coolerman.
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Re: Automatic Transmission Cooler Installation
Anybody have an updated link for this?
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#4 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: Automatic Transmission Cooler Installation
http://www.nissanoffroad.net/how_to/...ion_cooler.asp
I am in the process of installing a cooler myself, and I would change it as follows: Remove the bolts holding the coolant overflow tank (passenger side) and intake resonator tube (driver's side) from the brackets that secure the radiator to the radiator support. Pull the intake resonator tube (still attached to the throttle cable) out of the intake and move it clear of the radiator. Remove the brackets holding the radiator to the radiator support. Tilt the top of the radiator back so you can get in between the radiator and the A/C condenser. You can now run the cooler mounting "rods" he refers to (they're like zip ties) through the condenser alone rather than through both it and the radiator. No worries about the fan shroud getting in the way. Rather than run the cooler lines down under the radiator, consider mounting the cooler so that the input/output is pointing to the passenger side and run the hoses through the gap between the condenser and the body to get them into the engine bay. You'll need to cut a 1x2" piece out of the plastic on the edge of the fan shroud there to do so. I just don't like the way the hoses are "exposed" down under the radiator, when 'wheeling there is a chance something could find its way into that space and damage them. Brent |
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#5 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Re: Automatic Transmission Cooler Installation
Good info! Any recommendations on the size of the cooler? I'm considering the Hayden 512 with this description; "MEDIUM DUTY COOL WITH THREADED FITTINGS THICKNESS 3/4", HEIGHT 7 1/2", LENGTH 12 1/2", CORE 8 3/4"
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#6 | |
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AF Regular
Thread starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
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Cooler Link
Good idea about leaning the radiator back Brent. That will make it much easier to mount the unit. Also getting the hoses out the side. Mine has been there for two years with no damage so far! Wobly: The coolers are usually rated by GWV size of vehicle. The one I used was for a 20,000 GWV vehicle so is a bit larger then needed. The one you mention is about the same size phsyically as the one I used so it should be fine. |
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#7 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: Automatic Transmission Cooler Installation
In the Hayden line, I'd go something in the Rapid-Cool line, the plate type is more durable and more compact than the fin type. The 678 is the size you would want.
I got a B&M Supercooler #70268 myself. Fits just dandy in front of the condenser alongside the A/C cooling fan (only used on the 2000 models BTW). Brent |
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#8 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Re: Automatic Transmission Cooler Installation
The Imperial 243007 is the same as the Hayden 677. I went with the Imperial since they can get it here tomorrow. When Advance Auto cross checked the Hayden 678, it crossed over to the Imperial 243012 which is 11"x 11 3/8". I probably could have shoehorned it in there, but I don't think I will have a big issue with the 243007.
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#9 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Re: Automatic Transmission Cooler Installation
Ok, I have done the install and will post my results.
I followed the directions from coolerman with the advice from OffroadX to tilt the radiator back. I prefered to have it mounted only on the A/C condenser rather than ramming the rods through the radiator. It worked great, except for the fact that I have large arms and I scraped the crap out of them between the top of the radiator and the body while reaching to the rods at the bottom. As you can tell from my previous post, I used the Imperial 243007 from Advance Auto. It is the same as the Hayden 677. I mounted it with both nipples facing down so I had more open space above it and more room for the hoses to go under the radiator mount. I don't do much rock crawling so crushing them isn't a big concern. Other than just giving the horn bracket a slight bend to keep it away, everything fit fine and went well, EXCEPT for the hose clamp at the return side of the radiator! I could not get a screw type clamp tightened on there! There is no easy way to get a screwdriver or anything else in there. I finally broke down and used the factory "spring" type against my better judgment, but I had messed with it for an hour already with no luck.After installing it and test driving, I didn't find any leaks and am quite happy with it and ready to tow a trailer next week. Work time total= 2 hours (one of which was on one hose clamp) Price= $49 for the cooler $1.50 for the fluid Difficulty level= 2 (out of 5) not very difficult |
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