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#1
07-18-2004, 04:51 AM
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Help Please!
There are three major remaining problems I have yet to fix to get the "show on the road."
1.) My battery light is still on. I just installed a brand new battery yesterday and the alternator is like 2.5 years old. 2 of which the car was out of commission. I dont know what else to check? 2.) It's still running rich, really rich. In fact even if I open the garage door it still burns the eyes and nose. Fuel pressure is bottomed out at 37 psi; if I unscrew it any more the fitting is gonna pop out! Any thoughts? 3.) The transmission is still not shifting right. It shifts way too early. If I'm in D or OD and I floor it, it doesn't even shift at all! The only way I can drive it is to use the manual pattern. I adjusted the TV linkage to spec(33 psi) using a pressure gauge and the linkage block. Again, any thoughts? P.S. I tryed pulling codes but the setup that was posted by HiFlow didn't work on my car. Are there ANY other ways to pull codes? Thanks all
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Alum Dished Pistons), B50 Block, Track Heat Intake, Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK EL-CC Headers, MAC O.R. H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Accufab 75mm TB, MAC CAI, BBK Pulleys, Griffin Alum Radiator, Mark 8 Fan, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 L-U Converter, B&M Trans Cooler; 3:73 gears. 
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#2
07-18-2004, 11:00 AM
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I might be able to help you with one. Is your AOD stock? or do you have a shift-kit?
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R.I.P. Hypsi- Andy your one of the best people I ever had the priviledge to know. AF and the world has lost one of the truly wonderful people... 
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#3
07-18-2004, 11:24 AM
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Re: Help Please!
Try this for TV adjustment.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...st/index.shtml
__________________
[size=1]-1950 Ford Custom, flathead V8
-2013 Ford Flex -1999 Ford F150
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#4
07-19-2004, 12:55 AM
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Thanks HiFlow, that actually worked pretty well compared to what it was doing before. Unfortunately, I've got some really bad news. I got home after that test drive and heard a hissing sound coming from my engine somewhere. Sure enough, there was coolant coming out of the head studs!!! I just recently heard, over at MustangWorks, that the Sportsman block uses a longer stud in the lower holes. Something about affecting the water jackets. Anyone heard of this? I really dont wanna have to put on new head gaskets already. Especially at $120 a pair! Do you think, if i cant find em, theres anyway to safely sneek in new lower studs without pulling the heads?
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92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Alum Dished Pistons), B50 Block, Track Heat Intake, Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK EL-CC Headers, MAC O.R. H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Accufab 75mm TB, MAC CAI, BBK Pulleys, Griffin Alum Radiator, Mark 8 Fan, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 L-U Converter, B&M Trans Cooler; 3:73 gears.
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#5
07-19-2004, 02:05 AM
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you didn't put sealant on the bottom row of head studs when you installed them did you? mistaaaaaaaake. those all need a bunch of silicone to keep your head gaskets in one piece...
__________________
-Andy '89 Mustang 5.0 - How fast? i'll know this weekend. '86 Mustang LX - Shortblock is built, now for the rest of it. "Put the subject before the verb, hmm? Fail this class, you will." -Yoda teaches english class.
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