Tyrrell P34 '76 Japan GP - Tamiya 1/20

[booch982]

Not really a WIP, since the model has been already finished, but a work report. This is my first WIP on this forum, and I wish you will enjoy this build as I did. Hence, I will post only major advances and some (very simple) scratchbuilts I made.

The kit is a classical one, the Tyrrell p34 by Tamiya in the Japan GP version, and in particular the car driven by Depailler, who didn’t win the GP under the rain only because of a tire puncture.


Good quality of the model, but the mold cavities are pretty old, and some misalignment is present… so a lot of sanding and puttying will be needed. The new box includes a beautiful PE sheet to realize the rear wing, the bird-cage adopted to cover the DFV velocity stacks, radiators, seatbelts, some flaps and other mechanical stuff.





So, let’s start sanding…

[booch982]

All the chassis sanded and ejector pins filled.





In addition, all the visible borders were thinned from the original thickness (about 1mm that is 2cm of the bodywork plates… is this car a 2WW tank?) by means of sanding and rotary tool

[booch982]

· Cowling completed, sanded, then a coat of tamiya gray primer was given.

[booch982]

Small scratchbuilding session: ammos. They were realized by cutting away springs from the kit plastic blobs. Then the ammo axe and reservoir were realized with small pieces of aluminium tubes or steel rods, while the springs were simulated with a .65 iron wire (rear) and .44 iron wire (front)






The final coils of the spring were shortened and milled, to acquire some realism. The simulated plastic pins used to simulate hex bolts were cut away and will be replaced with PE bolts by Top Studio: a small hole was prepared to remember me where they have to be placed…

[Porsnatic]

Great start!

[booch982]

· Another small scratchbuilding session: AN fittings. I started with simple 1.5mm aluminium tube, placed within the proxxon chuck, that has 3 cuts and can be easily used to mill the hex faces… than rotary tool for rounding off the head and cut the piece. 30min work for 5 connections, not perfect but self-made, what a satisfaction!










The rear torsion bar was very ugly in both appearance and assembling.. so, cut away and made by 1mm steel rod.

[booch982]

· Cam covers prepared. I simulated the spark plugs covers by mean of 1mm styrene rods, cut and drilled. The covers were then colored with semi-gloss black, the FORD marks were colored with chrome passed with an almost dry toothpick. Then some drybrush, spark plugs painted in matt black and PE placed.









· Wheels prepared, and air valves simulated with a .8mm brass tube, with a small cut made with Proxxon rotary tool to simulate valve cap. A drop of diluted matt-black is used to highlight the contrast between valve and cap.

[booch982]

· Some various pieces…. Colors are (mainly), aluminium and chrome silver ModelMaster and XF56 Tamiya. The small T-juction placed in the upper part of the gearbox was built with the same technique used for AN fittings…









The red light was simulated painting in chrome silver and the clear red.

[booch982]

· Preparation of the bird-cage…







· Pedals: the kit piece, even with PE, is poorly detailed. I enjoyed myself in adding some detail, such as leverages for the brake oil pumps and throttle pedal

[booch982]

· First step of painting complete: primer, sanding, 3 coats of TS15 from the can, sanding, TS13 to seal the color, masking and semi-gloss black in the inner part of the cowling and Model Master aluminium in the cockpit, sanding again…

[booch982]

· Rear brake disks: even if PE are included, the brake disk of the kit is full, not ventilated. I am not sufficiently skilled to scratchbuild it, but I can modify the kit piece. A ruled strip of masking tape is used to mark the points where cuts have to be done. Then some painting, PE in place, some puttying with MrHobby liquid filler, brush-painting of the disk sides… and that’all.







Gearbox Assembly: an-fittings are completely scratchbuilt, other hose joints are simply simulated with a thin strip of aluminium foil

[Porsnatic]

Excellent masterpiece on scratchbuilding...

[Shunter]

Looks great, enjoying the work.

[Anderr]

very good work.... pure qua ti devo fare i complimenti????

[booch982]

Thank you for all your comments! Let' continue after a long time this WIP!

Motor Assembly: main body painted with aluminium MM, fuel lines were simulated by means of .6mm transparent tubes (still large in scale, but they were the smallest I had), lateral pumps with simulated tubes made with tin rods, very easy to model. Plumbing and wiring was made according reference (even if limited by my SKILLS). Velocity stacks were pre-assembled and colored with chrome silver ModelMaster. Some decals and two strips of insulating tape were placed onto the control unit (?)






Assembly of motor and gearbox… I first prepared the large cooling hoses (already included in the kit), by adding blue insulating tape for simulating the hose clamps together with thin adhesive aluminium stripes, that were then glued with 2K epoxy, in order to allow some flexibility that CA does not have, when cured….



The assembly was apparently simple, but putting the ammos right in place was a fight between me and the model.