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#1
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B16A with lots of engine work vs B18 engine w/turbo
Heres a question for ya'll smart folk: since you guys said that the B16a is no good for a turbo, i just came up with this. The b18 is like over $1000 more than the b16 and a good turbo is like $3k, so i was thinking i get the b16a and just do $4k worth of engine work to it, u know, build it up slowly. do u think this would be faster than a turboed b18 engine? Plz lemme know what u think
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Born 2/19/85: Thats right ladies, the BMan is Legal!! ;-) Totallin My 89 CRX Si: +$2700 Buyin It Back From Insurance: -$50 Buying a 90 CRX Si: -$2200 Gettin to start over with more money and knowing i screwed insurance w/out trying: Priceless It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or.........wait, thats been said already. On the road of life there are passengers and......no, thats been done too. Dang, all the good sayings have already been said, ohwell. -BMan original |
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#2
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What B18 are you talking about that's $1000 more than a B16...? Anyway, check out this site... B18a w/ stock internals w/upgraded fuel injectors and Drag 3 turbo on an EF doing 11's...
http://d1profiles.tripod.com/joe.htm :flash:
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AF Bay Area Crew![]() Fully Built LSVtec Motor (245.8 whp/164.6 torque) 88 DX Hatch to JDM SiR conversion Retired SOLD 1/08 Licensed Mortgage Consultant (Calif.) Cellular 415.699.1797 |
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#3
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With a B16 and 4K worth of NA mods you'd have quite the fast little car, thats for sure.. But a boosted LS motor is where its at.. You can't really compare a boosted motor and an NA one. The NA motor will likley be more reliable, but the boosted one will be faster.
LS motors have huge rods from the factory and can take a lot of boost.. Cheap, Fast, and Reliable.. Choose two.
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"The nympho of info, I'm fuckin' what ya heard"
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#4
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I partly agree with you SiZ...But LS rods are actually one of its weak points not to include the block that can only handle up to 8500 RPM and the cast pistons. But getting them shotpeened will more than double its strength and replacing the pistons with a forged one will definitely handle more boost.
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AF Bay Area Crew![]() Fully Built LSVtec Motor (245.8 whp/164.6 torque) 88 DX Hatch to JDM SiR conversion Retired SOLD 1/08 Licensed Mortgage Consultant (Calif.) Cellular 415.699.1797 |
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#5
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As compared to other Honda engines, LS motors have some of the biggest rods is what I'm saying.
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"The nympho of info, I'm fuckin' what ya heard"
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#6
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k how this comparison. a turbo b16a vs a turbo b18a. why cant you turbo both engines. and the b16a takes the win.
idk what you guys talkin about, the b16a is a good turbo motor |
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#7
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Quote:
__________________
Born 2/19/85: Thats right ladies, the BMan is Legal!! ;-) Totallin My 89 CRX Si: +$2700 Buyin It Back From Insurance: -$50 Buying a 90 CRX Si: -$2200 Gettin to start over with more money and knowing i screwed insurance w/out trying: Priceless It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or.........wait, thats been said already. On the road of life there are passengers and......no, thats been done too. Dang, all the good sayings have already been said, ohwell. -BMan original |
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#8
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Yeah...bigger rods doesnt mean they're stronger...jdm type R has the most cromium content in all B series rods. more cromium=stronger metal
__________________
AF Bay Area Crew![]() Fully Built LSVtec Motor (245.8 whp/164.6 torque) 88 DX Hatch to JDM SiR conversion Retired SOLD 1/08 Licensed Mortgage Consultant (Calif.) Cellular 415.699.1797 |
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#9
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Once you are talking turbo vs turbo motors, you are really talking boost vs boost. Higher boost without detonation in comperable engines wins.
Decompress a B16A and they make a damn nice turbo car. Likewise a B18A or B18C. VTEC doesn't play as much of a role in a turbo car as it does with a NA car. The higher lobe lift created by a VTEC system is compensated for by the turbo forcing more air in. Both achieve the same result. I have two thoughts on the whole thing. Firstly, a good turbo setup will always have the potential to run rings around a NA car, regardless of what is done to the NA. NA will always be more expensive in the long run due to the need to do cams, headwork etc. Each tiny improvement in performance will need money. With a well-setup turbo, you just wind in more boost (keeping in mind what you have designed it to max out at). But... I always feel that it's better to buy a car that was turboed at factory. It's designed for the stress unlike a car with a turbo whacked on. An SR20DET will always be better than a B16A w/turbo - it was designed to take the heat and boost. Hence the fact that my next daily car will prolly be a Sileighty or S14 Silvia. Oh, and those who think that turbos are cheating... to quote Connery: "Losers whine, winners go home and fork the prom queen" ![]() Oh... and "if" I was going to turbo an engine, I'd go the B18 - preferably a B18C, but an A would be fine too
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#10
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if you're gonna turbo that motor, you better get new valve springs so on a VTEC motor you don't start floating valves as you aproach redline and the boost levels increase.
all in all though, i'd say this is kind of a useless comparison... because it comes down to what KIND of mods you spend 4 grand on... but i say if you are gonna do a swap, go balls to the wall and do either a B18 or a full frankenstein swap. hell, you're already gonna have to tear a bunch of stuff up, might as well spend the extra few Gs to get a more powerful setup.
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