Got a GSX! And some questions(56k death)

[Urban_Squrill]

Well finaly I got a hold of a GSX. A 95 5 Speed GSX woot!They guy I got it from delivered to me for 50 bucks(cost of gas). Ended up costing $2550 to my door. He was only a few hours away. But the catch no motor, well sort of. He blew out the 7 bolt, but he has a 6 bolt long block that came with it. Just tought I would have to share, I do have some questions too at the end.


It also came with:
6 Bolt block
6 Bolt Complete head
1g Intake Manifold With 1g TB and TB elbow
2g Intake Manifold with TB and Elbow
Alternator.PS etc.
7 Bolt with only cams and cam gears.
Full 3'' turbo back.
14b
to4b Garrett I think he said it was a 50 trim
Some other big ass Garrett
Eprom ECU
Gauges(boost, A/F, Oil pressure, engine temp) With custom center mount pod.
ACT 2600(only like 500 miles on it)
7 bolt Fidanza Flywheel
KYB Adjustable Shocks
Eibach's(3'' Drop)
1g Crushed BOV
2b el shito bov
Custom painted interior
New Hawk Brake pads
17'' Kay(I think thats what they are called) with new tires
Home Depto Intake
K&N Filter with heat shield
New OEM Spark plug wires.

Now for some pics.













Fearsome Threesome


Now for the questions. First off is the 1g TB elbow bigger then the 2g? Clutchs are interchangeable betwen 6 and 7 bolts as long as they are the same drive train type right?

The 6 bolt I have looks like it could just use some new gaskets and a timing belt and it could be running. I wanna get this thing running soon(I fucking hate my pos truck). Should I do the converson and throw the 6 bolt in that is kinda iffy, and get another 6 bolt to build or throw in a used 7 bolt and build up my 6 bolt?

And for parts to get this bad boy really up and running(Fast) I am thinkin:
FMIC (peferably with short route piping)
950cc Injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
Wally 255
DSM link
Lap/PDA(For DSM link)

I know I missed a lot.
This is just the start of my questions lol.

[JoeWagon]

Fucking awesome deal man. Hopefully that leaves you with the means to get it all together soon. Can't answer any of your questions, though... mainly what you put in there to get it running will be your choice. Can you afford to buy a motor to run it and another built?

[Urban_Squrill]

I think i may just get a 7 bolt with 100kish miles on it and not boost the shit out of it. and build the 6 bolt.

[TreeFrog]

fine someone who knows what they are doing, like jake, and have them go to working putting the 6 bolt in with the 14b

[EclipseRST]

Originally Posted by Urban_Squrill

Now for the questions. First off is the 1g TB elbow bigger then the 2g? Clutchs are interchangeable betwen 6 and 7 bolts as long as they are the same drive train type right?

1. 2g TB elbow is bigger than a 1g. 1g's are about 1.5ish ID and 2gs are about 2.25 ID. Very noticable difference.

2. Clutches are all the same between FWD and AWD, 90-99. Only thing different between years and models are the flywheels. AWD are smaller on all years and there are 6 and 7 bolt flywheels. Other than that they are all the same diameter between models.

Originally Posted by Urban_Squrill

The 6 bolt I have looks like it could just use some new gaskets and a timing belt and it could be running. I wanna get this thing running soon(I fucking hate my pos truck). Should I do the converson and throw the 6 bolt in that is kinda iffy, and get another 6 bolt to build or throw in a used 7 bolt and build up my 6 bolt?

Its all up to what your goals are. Replace all the gaskets on the lower end, it wouldnt hurt to do valve stem seals now too since you have it all apart and put a new timing kit on and you'll be good to go. Then if you want to build a motor you can find a 6 bolt block and go from there. Then you can reuse most the accessories off the motor in the car when you put the built motor in. Buying another motor (7 bolt) to put in right now would be a waste. Spend the money on something needed and more suitable, like DSMlink.

Originally Posted by Urban_Squrill

And for parts to get this bad boy really up and running(Fast) I am thinkin:
FMIC (peferably with short route piping)
950cc Injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
Wally 255
DSM link
Lap/PDA(For DSM link)

I know I missed a lot.
This is just the start of my questions lol.

You need the small stuff first. Dont worry about the FMIC right away. If you have stock injectors and pump that will work fine just to get you up and running. Get DSMlink first before you get the injectors and pump so you can get use to it before you go for a big upgrade like that.

You're going to need a timing belt kit. Probably around $250-300 at the dealer.

Lower end gaskets to be safe. You have the motor out so why not replace them now. Random other gaskets also.

Its good to see you got an excellent deal. Hope everything works out for ya. I'd love to help but I'm a little ways away and as for time, I'm pretty swamped right now. I have 3 cars to get done, and 1 was suppose to be done the beginning of April although it seems every little fucking thing has been going wrong with it! But if you do need anything done, let me know. I'm sure you can handle most of the stuff though. Good luck with it.

[EclipseRST]

Originally Posted by Urban_Squrill

It also came with:
14b

Oh and just to let you know... The middle turbo is a 16g. By the compressor wheel it even looks like a Big 16g but you will have to measure it to figure that out.

[clipsekid99]

Congrats man! Hope to see it up and running soon

[Urban_Squrill]

So take my 6 bolt regasket it and a timing kit and throw it in their? How big should the compresser wheel be for a B16g?

Since I have both 1g and 2g heads and TB and intake manifolds, are any of the 2g's or 1g's parts better then the other. I think that 1g tubo cams are better, along with 1g intake manifold, and TB, but the 2g elbow is better. Which head is better flowing?

I was looking at my cams today and noticed that on the right hand side next to the cam gears on both cams and a little square with the letter K next to it, and next to that their are little dots. I think that they differentiate intake and exhaust.

[JoeWagon]

reseal regastket and timing belt. slowboy has a 16g measurement page, but you can't tell without taking it apart. 1g head flows more.

[Urban_Squrill]

Well I have decided to wait until I get my loan for about 3k to get her up and running. I wanna do the built block. I wanna have this thing be like new. So pistions, bearings rods, timing belt kit, BSEK, oil pump, probly do something to the crank, get the block hot tanked and bored. What else? About how much to get a nice built block?

[hellah fresh]

Squrill you got a GSX now!?!?!?! AWESOME! man i really do want a gsx now scince you got one =\. for $2500 thats a hella of a deal. I would of sold me RS with the quickness if i could. BTW i see a 93 GSX in the newspaper for $3'650 w/ 68k... is that a good deal Lol down grade from a 96 to a 93 lol. Dont think so =p

[EclipseRST]

Originally Posted by Urban_Squrill

Well I have decided to wait until I get my loan for about 3k to get her up and running. I wanna do the built block. I wanna have this thing be like new. So pistions, bearings rods, timing belt kit, BSEK, oil pump, probly do something to the crank, get the block hot tanked and bored. What else? About how much to get a nice built block?

Well when I did Jakes (97_3clipse) motor I charged him $3k. It included a shit load of stuff though:

1990 bolt block, bored .020 over and honed. It has brand new pistons, piston rings, rod bearings and main bearings. The head has all new valves, valve guides, springs and retainers. Motor has all new gaskets and seals. Brand new timing belt kit, a/c, ps, alternator, and water pump belts. Removal of the balance shafts.

I installed a ACT 2100lb pressure plate and street clutch disk. Resurfaced 6 bolt flywheel along with a new ACT throw out bearing. Put in a SS hydrolic feed for the clutch.

I also installed Polyurthane motor mounts in place of the stock rubber ones.


I feel I gave him a good deal compared to a lot of other shops out there. Now for a built motor thats a little different, probably add atleast another $1000 for the lower end and around $1000 for the head if you want valves, springs, and cams. If you want it ported decently add $500 to that.

So right off the bat your probably looking at around $5k-$5500 for a fully built race motor that would probably handle around 700whp respectably. Seeing you have your own core motor the price could drop drastically to as low as $4k depending on what you have for parts.

If you'd rather have a 2.3L motor done up that would probably be about $500 more. (Brand new forged steel crank from my vendor at cost is $489.) Its all up to your goals. If you'd rather do it alone I suggest finding a shop with the tools to build high hp motors. Its not easy but if your willing to attempt to try it I suggest you start off with a stock rebuild first so then if something happens your not throwing your money out the window.

If I install a motor (no matter what kind of motor it is, race or stock) that I built, I give a 1yr/12k mile warrenty on all parts and labor unless voided by signs of abuse. (Basically to save my ass). If I build a motor and have someone else install it. If they are ASE certified then I give a 3 month/3k mile warrenty. Practically the breaking period. Just some things to think about when looking to build up a car.

Good luck.

[Urban_Squrill]

Well what I wanna do is basicly just a stock rebuilt head and forged pisions and rods. Enough to take 450hp the a 100 shot if I ever wanted to.

[cursed1g]

Originally Posted by Urban_Squrill

is that dye or vinyl paint on the doors?

edit by joewagon - don't quote 3 pages please

[Urban_Squrill]

Its paint with a flex agent. The dash has no texture on it at all too.