SLR's suspension lift options

[xtmtbman]

Just some questions on the slr lift options (econ line, stage 1-3). Which kit is better? I already have the stock length front bilsteins (20% stiffer) and the rear 10" bilsteins (stiffer), and calmini shackles. Will i need to get longer shocks if i get the stage kit (1-3)? They seem to push the front shocks with the cnc spacers, do i really need them? Could i just get the new spring pack and the stage 1-3 control arms with the diff lowering kit, or will that give me too much travel so i will need the longer shocks? Lastly how much real lift will i get with each kit? thanks for you time everyone.

[Schludwiller]

Front shocks can stay the same. Rear shocks will need to be longer. The 3-leaf AAL would be best unless you go with the 10-leaf. The Econoline's are the same as the Calmini ones. I would get the other arms (can't remember what they call them now, but they're the round control arm ones) but they have longer wheel travel. You probably won't need the shackles with the AAL's as they correct the leaf arch very well unless you've destroyed the stock ones with the shackles.

Torsion bars I would go with the Nismos.

I have the diff lowering kit, but have never installed it. The only people I've heard of blowing a CV joint had their front sway bars disconnected. But if you want to be safe.....Plus remember if you have skid plates you'll have to adjust for the lower differential.

[xtmtbman]

Through my searching for answers i found a few people that blew the cv joint even with the sway bar connected. However it seems that if you just watch your line and don't drop the passenger side tire too extremely it should be fine. I have been planning on getting the 10 leaf spring pack. That's why i cheaped out and got just the shackles to begin with just so i could get some more clearance when i put on my tires. ( bfg mt 32x11.5) Although I've only had the shackles on for 2 months so once again i might have to go the cheap route on the springs and save the money for that new bumper. hmm decisions decisions. Just have to figure out how to convince the woman a bull bar is a safety thing

[XSAL]

When I had a face-to-face conversation with Steve @ Calmini site, he told me that their A-arms are designed not to allow CV joint to go too steep...prevent it from blowing.

Assuming that the econoline a-arms are really identical to Calmin's, I'd think that you won't have to worry about CV joint with econoline a-arms much. But, if you go with SLR's a-arms...

[ChuckH]

Just thought I'd throw in a little something on the rear springs (and other things)...

The SLR 3 pack AAL is a great setup and will give you 1.5 - 2 inches of lift in back. Using the Calmini shackles with them will give you a rear high stance, but for some of us that's desireable. Using the 1" lift shackles from SLR are a better match if you want less lift in back. Not using lift shackles will result in a level ride (since you would be lifting the front more than the back) and a lot of people like that. I don't because it means as soon as I put 200 lbs of stuff in back my truck would be dragging it's ass!

The 10 leaf pack is a nice ride, but it is designed for a stock weight truck and for offroading, not carrying loads. Those that carry extra crap find that they sag pretty fast. If those are what you really want though and you carry a lot of gear, SLR might be able to have some custom made for more weight. I know they can do that with the AAL's.

I don't know about the UCA travel difference with the swaybar off, but with it on, the SLR and Calmini seem to offer the exact same amount of travel. Guess that makes sense though. I've never run with my front bar off because it's just too much hassle.

One thing to really take note of is that a LOT of people who install lifts end up overlifting the front end. I see a lot of Xterras with SLR or Calmini lifts that are running more like 4 inches or more of lift up front just because they want the front level with the back. Doing that means the CV angles are steep all the time. Might not be a problem if the only time you use 4WD is on the trail, but if you have to use 4WD in the winter on the highway and such the CV joints will take a beating. If you are going to insist on pushing the front end lift limits you better get the differential lowering kit for sure, but that kinda defeats the purpose of lifting the front, IMO.

Now for the real world info. I have the Calmini front end lift and the rear is done with Calmini shackles and SLR AAL's. I have 3 inches of lift at both ends, but you have to consider that my truck is pretty heavy at the ass end, with about 200 + lbs of constant extra weight. If I were to take off all the extra weight I would probably have another 1/2" to 3/4" lift in back with that setup and I might want to drop to the shorter SLR shackles.

[OffroadX]

A set of to-order custom rear leaf springs from AOR can be had for $400 or so too, you can spec height and extra load capacity.
http://www.aor4x4.com/

Brent

[Schludwiller]

Originally Posted by OffroadX

A set of to-order custom rear leaf springs from AOR can be had for $400 or so too, you can spec height and extra load capacity.
http://www.aor4x4.com/

Brent

Nice link.

[xtmtbman]

Raising the rear a little higher and being able to hold more wieght is what i'm going for. I use my truck a lot on the weekends for work and it could easily have 250 to 400 lbs in the rear. I'm trying to find a nice middle ground between offroading ability and work truck. The more I'm on this boad though the more i lean towards offroading prowess.
There's a leaf spring manufacturer/sales place 10 minutes from home maybe I'll stop by and see what they can offer me.
Anyone know how far the differential hangs down with the slr lowering kit? I agree with chuckh, if it's too low it will just get hung up on stuff anyway so what's the point.
Does anyone regret getting the calmini/econoline lift rather than the slr? I'm just afraid I'll buy one install it and wish i would have chosen the other.

[Schludwiller]

The point of the differential lowering is to now blow cv joints. But that's only going to happen for the most part if you have your front sway bar disconnected. I would go to the shop down the street if you have specific load capacities you need.