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#2
06-09-2003, 09:37 PM
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 I've used auto paints that came in spray cans...I don't think I understand your question... 
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#4
06-09-2003, 09:56 PM
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I keep lacquers out of my airbrushes. They dry too fast for me to get them cleaned out of the airbrush, so I don't mess with it. I think it's being proven left and right on here that you can get good paintjobs out of both spray cans and airbrushes.
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#5
06-09-2003, 10:35 PM
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I have seen some good paint jobs with rattel cans but I cant seem to achieve it, so I use an airbrush. alot of people use automotive paint for thier cars, some show winners use House of Kolor Auto paints. I use dupilcolor Walmart auto paint and airbrush it on. In fact keep an eye out for the MR2 i just sprayed this evening.
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Name is Luke. Faster and Faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.  CompletelyStock except 17 Enkei RS6, Megan racing Downpipe-3" piping-megan racing muffler. no cat. K&N filter.
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#6
06-09-2003, 10:37 PM
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Well with airbrush there is more control over how much you spray and how fast the thing goes....
ALso you get to use acrylics and enermal as well.... easy clean up... And sometimes the colour you want is easier to mix yourself then going out and tryign to find it.... 
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#7
06-09-2003, 10:46 PM
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I use the airbrush for acrylics and enamels. The lacquers just dry too fast for the airbrush in my opinion. I will have to airbrush using touchup paint bottles before long though. I will just have to work quickly. I've been using Duplicolor spraypaint over tamiya's fine white primer lately though. I get great results with it.
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#8
06-10-2003, 01:30 AM
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I use auto colors now all the time with my airbrush and now I dodn't wish t replace it with hobby colors anymore.
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Zeljko Segin http://www.hrmodeler.com - Fast wheels - my pages My current project - ..... 
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#9
06-10-2003, 07:07 AM
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I use spray cans, both tamiya and duplicolor applied with my airbrush, I place a bit of alcohol of pharmacy on the airbrush, spray paint on it directly, and... I have a perfect moisture of paint ready to be applied more exactly, and this is really helpfull if you have to paint small parts such wings or thing like that, cause if you spray it directly, you waste a lot of paint, I also do this, cause I've experienced problems with the spray being applied directly to the model, so... I have a better control this way.
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#10
06-10-2003, 10:52 AM
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Using automotive paints is very easy. As far as cleanup goes just soak the airbrush parts in laquer thinner and you will never have a problem. I have been using automotive laquers for twenty years in my airbrushes and have never had a problem cleaning them.
If you buy the paint in a spray can just shoot it into the airbrush bottle when you are ready to spray. Like stated before the airbrush gives much better control of where and how much paint you are spraying. One thing I always do before spraying is to warm the spray can in a sink full of hot water. The warm paint flows much better and will give better results as far as coverage and gloss. Mark
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#11
06-11-2003, 02:31 AM
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I get leftover paints from my friend who owns a bodyshop. I use a base/clear system. The basecoat isn't very shiny and requires the clear. The clear is applied 10 minutes after the basecoat is sprayed. The stuff dries fast, it's ready to polish in less than a day. That's if you need to polish it in the first place. The clearcoat dries so hard and smooth the model looks like it's wet. The only time I need to sand/polish automotive clearcoat is when I get dust or orange peel in some spots. I haven't rubbed/sanded through the clearcoat on a corner yet. I can also polish automotive clearcoat with a Dremel the next day - did I mention how hard the clearcoat is?
 Cleanup is easy. Lacquer thinner will take anything off in seconds no matter how dry. The negatives? It stinks like hell and very very bad for you, a respirator is a must. Also (in my case) it comes in huge cans that take up a lot of space. Although the color range is unlimited, the minimum I can order is a pint which eats up garage space rather quickly. The clearcoat is 2-part and has to be mixed before spraying. The paint is also reduced in oddball amounts (hardener + reducer + base) but luckily I get them already mixed. You can't pre-mix the clear because it'll harden on it's own once mixed. The best way I've found to use spray cans is to turn them upside down, clamp the nozzle open until all the propellant is gone, punch a hole in the can with a nail, pour it in a bottle and airbrush it. Everyone's got their own method that works for them, but don't be afraid to experiment.
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#12
06-11-2003, 02:56 AM
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Minus the compressor, what's the typical range for a good airbrush and needed equipment? I've been wanting to do some detail painting, outside of modeling, just for an extra hobby.
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#13
06-12-2003, 10:11 AM
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You can buy a really nice Aztec Airbrush for around $90 at http://www.modelexpoinc.com/ Then you will need a moisture trap and pressure regulator if you're using a compressor. I've seen both of them anywhere from $20-$50 a pop.
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