87 Lincoln TCStumble on accerlation

[jubylives]

Ok I have an 87 TC limo that has been pissing me off trying to get it to run. It all happened after I replaced the ignition coil. I replaced the coil as it was arching off the upper radiator hose. I drove for about 20 miles then it stumbled and died. Towed it home and it started right away. Took it for another drive stumbled and died. Smelled real gassy but acted liek it was out of fuel. This time wouldn't start. Would fire intermittently but stumbeld and died right away. Replace the fuel filter started right up. Drove about 20 miles same dam thing. Towed it home yet again. Started replacing items and doing some amateur diagnosing. Pulled codes and got 11, 12 and 94. Here is where I am at with the sensors and such.

TPI set at 1 volt throttle closed- new
ICM or TFI - new
Ignition coil - new
PIP/pick up coil. New
Cap rotor - new
Fuel filter - new
MAP sensor - new car dies with hose off

Fuel pump, filter and regulator all presumed good. 39-40 ignition on car off. Car running stays at 29-30.

Here are some things I've noticed whiling messing around with the other sensors.

IAC appears to be working. Car stumbles and almost dies when unplugged
Coolant temp sensor - Resistance does go up and down with temp change.

I do know the passenger side plugs and wires need to be replaced but have not done so yet as all the A/C and heat hoses for the rear go right over the plugs. Driver side are all new.

I guess the only things left are the O2 sensor, knock sensor if it has one, crankshaft position sensor if it has one or the computer. I am at a loss as what to do. I'm trying to get it running to take the kids trick or treating. I can get it to start but it stumbles real bad at the exact same spot on the throttle. We replaced the battery terminals so I'm sure the codes are all goofy now so I thought maybe that's why. I have no idea what to do next. I'm going to work on the wires and plugs next but after that I have no idea. I've been posting this on every site I can find and I've not gotten anywhere. Anyone here have any ideas to help me. It would be greatly appreciated.

Jeremy

[jubylives]

Oops forgot. The EGR and the solenoid I have no idea if they are bad. It did bottom out going ovet some RR tracks and there does appear to be less exhaust coming out the passenger side. Could a partially plugged cat be doing this??

[olopezm]

Well if the Cat is clogged it will definitely choke the engine, I know there are some ways to check the cat condition without cutting the exhaust tube and all you need is a vacuum gauge, unfortunately that's all I know, hopefully someone else will shed some light on this, I'll try to find some information about it and will post it here ASAP.

About the EGR you can start the engine and open abruptly the throttle abruptly (about 2000-3000 RPM's) immediately take your foot off the gas, if the engine stalls, backfires or has a poor response to the throttle then you likely have a EGR problem. I don't know what engine your car has if you could post that information maybe I could help some more. Also you could try disconnecting the hose on the EGR valve, if you have a hand operated vacuum pump connect it to the EGR valve, turn the engine on and pull vacuum on the pump (10 inches), if you don't have a vacuum pump you can use a small piece of rubber hose, connect it to the valve and suck air with your mouth, just give it a try before you start the engine so you know how much air to suck. If the engine runs rough then the EGR passages are probably clogged and need to be cleaned out.

To test the solenoid (EGR controls and vent solenoid if equipped) measure resistance between both terminals, the readings should be 30 ohms or more, if not check the wiring harness for shorts.

Best regards,

Oscar.

EDIT:
About your codes:
12 - Means your RPM's are not within upper limit, this might be due to a vacuum leak inspect hoses for cracks or damage.
94 - Thermactor air system not working, make sure all drivebelts are tight and not slipping, also inspect hoses around thermactor pump for damage or cracks.

Here is the information about the catalytic converter

[jubylives]

Oh I did forget the engine. Sorry it's the 5.0. I would try to test the cat but I can't get the engine to go much past idle. I can get it to throttle up a little but it stumbles and tries to die. Thanks for the reply. I thought I cast this seed on stony ground.

[olopezm]

Originally Posted by jubylives

Oh I did forget the engine. Sorry it's the 5.0. I would try to test the cat but I can't get the engine to go much past idle. I can get it to throttle up a little but it stumbles and tries to die. Thanks for the reply. I thought I cast this seed on stony ground.

Did you remove anything else when you replaced the coil?.

I can think you should start looking for vacuum leaks, if there is a leak big enough it will cause to engine not to idle properly or not at all, which might be the cause of the "12" code. And with the age of the car it is likely that many hoses are old enough to crack easily.

If the car stalls or stumbles when you throttle I would think there is something wrong with your EGR system or the Thermactor system your code 94 is pointing to, both systems work with the exhaust gases to reduce emissions.

Here's some looong information about EGR and Thermactor systems, also there is a PDF with general tests, I'm sorry I cannot be more specific: I'm not an expert but I try to do my best.

Lincoln tests

Bes regards,

Oscar.

[olopezm]

One more thing, have you checked the fuel pressure and the fuel pressure regulator?

It should be about 35-45 PSI with the engine running and if you disconnect the hose at the fuel pressure regulator the PSI should go up about 10 PSI more or less.

This is just a guess but I was thinking that maybe your EGR channels are clogged, I'm not sure where these are located at (I've only seen pictures of what it seems to be these channels), they should be next to the EGR valve on the "EGR spacer" make sure every single channel located between the throttle body and the upper manifold is clean and not obstructed, here is one more pdf with an exploded view of the air intake. Once you take these apart take a quick look to the IAC it might be getting stuck a little bit, give it a good shot of carburetor or electric components cleaner.

Have you checked the distributor cap for any signs of dirt, damage or corrosion?, you mentioned the wires and plugs on the passenger side are bad, you should replace these in order to clear any other possible symptoms, it must be a PITA to remove all the hoses you mentioned, but it's better to be sure these are not causing any other problem before you start taking apart any other things you really needn't to.

Oh! I almost forgot, about the ZIP file from my last post, trust me it's 100% free of virus!.

Best regards,

Oscar.

EDIT:
Here is another PDF with the self tests, this should definitely help you with the code 94, and will surely help in the future, I would advise you to check all the info I stated in this post first and second with the post above, it's a lot of info, but it will help you know and will help you for future reference.

Lincoln selftests (both RS links have been uploaded to a premium account thus they won't be deleted ever!).

[jubylives]

Great thanks for the info. Fuel pressure is good. 39 ignition on car off and 30 running.

[olopezm]

No problem!, 30 PSI might be a little low but I don't think it's low enough to make the car die, maybe a lean condition at much, hopefully your problem will be at the engine compartment, please let me know how it turns out!

Best regards,

Oscar.