Stalling:
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crank shaft position sensor
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My girlfriend's 97 grand Cherokee had the same problem. It turned out to be an electrical short. The problem was where the wires come out of the computer on the passenger side. These wires rubbed on the A/C lines and wore away the coating. We took it to four shops and no one could find this. Once we found the problem I put some caulk around the broke part. This kept the moisture out and made the computer stop flipping out.
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The way the IAC acts up is when you are driving and let off the gas it will stall or when you come to a stop. When you had it cleaned I think you meant The Iac Idle Air Control Motor they might not got all the carbon out or it could be bad.
My idle air control motor was replaced along with my pcv valve and my jeep has been working perfectly. No close calls, also there is no more jumping of my RPM needle. it doesn't idle as rough and i am happy......so far. If i do not respond to this post again then you will know what was done to fix my problem. good luck to everyone.
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There is a fuse box under the hood of the 93 Cherokee - The problem will be a yellow small 20 amp fuse (you will know this by removing with engine run and it stalls and fails to restart) - this disables the vehicles ignition control module preventing the vehicle from starting or continuing to run - over the years this fuse can become corroded because it is outside the vehicle and loose, thus the sporadic stalling in motion - the dealer will replace sensors cause they appear to be old and cost you money, but they fail to mention as a safety they will disable the battery and sometimes remove the fuse and in most cases replace it with a fresh one without thinking that this was probably the problem - clean all your fuse connections outside the vehicle. Try this before spending a lot of car.
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Water in gas.
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The engine needs Air, Spark and Fuel to run.
There are a number of things to look at.
With that many miles;
Pull the dipstick out and check the oil to make sure it is not brown or has water in it.
This is to make sure your head gasket is not leaking coolant into the cylinders.
Check the Air Filter to make sure it is clean.
Next are the spark plugs. Make sure they are not over 65,000 miles old. Despite the great improvements in electronic ignition, spark plugs between 60,000 and 100,000 are pushing the limit.
And finally what I really think the problem is … look at the distributor cap and rotor.
I changed mine at 100,000 miles when the gas mileage started to drop. I was very surprised to see the extremely poor condition. I thought that the electronic ignition would not be as harsh as a points system but there was burning on the rotor tip and heavy gray carbon buildup on the distributor cap posts.
Another thing may be water in the fuel. I would not suspect the fuel filter since I have been disassembling fuel filters for 8 years now and I have yet to find anything in them. Not one speck of dirt. I now rarely change fuel filters unless there is a fuel pump replacement or the gas tank is suspected or is known to have water in it.
Air conditioning leaks inside car.
Condensation drain clogged. It originates below cowl inside engine compartment and drains under carpet pass side to outside. use compressed air blow out all debris in and below cowl. should clear.
Won't shift right:
My 96 GC LTD (108K miles) starts having a problem shifting (Auto Tranny) 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. (3rd to 4th is totally fine) It's even worse when the engine is cold. I kind of have to take my foot off from the gas to let the tranny shift to the next gear most of the time.
I had this same problem until I changed my thermostat. I haven't had the problem since. Living in Canada, every cold morning would be a nightmare to get to work.
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I found that accelerating revs up rpm but not speeding up when
engine is cold. After a few minutes of driving it becomes
normal and drives like new. - seals in torque converter bad
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I Have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee that I just purchased. I have a problem with the shifting of my tranny from 1st to 2nd to 3rd, but not all the time. It usually runs well, but sometimes, it decides to rev to 2800 rpm from 1st to 2nd, then 2200rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Then, it decides to shift well for the next little while. After a while, it does it again. Highway, it seems to run very well. Could this be a tranny problem, or what I heard from some people, a computer chip problem. Anyway any kind of help would be very much appreciated... thanks guys.
u have a 42/44RE transmission, the TCM (transmission control module) is located underneath the Driver's side of the dashboard, to the left of the Steering Column
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stuck in third gear
I had the same kind of problem with my 93 GC Limited. Try checking the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) fuses in the fuse box under the hood. It's also called a module. There is usually two of them, a 10 amp and a 15 amp (both mini fuses). In the '93 if your facing the front of the jeep they are third from left closest row to you. If one of these is blown the transmission will lock up in third gear to protect the tranny from damage. This is designed into the transmission control package at the factory. It's at least worth a look. Good luck and I hope this helps.
Smell coming from A/C vents
the smell is mold growing in your ac/heat ducts. what happens is when you have the ac on the evaporator removes moisture from the air before it enters your vehicle, and the water drains outside, that is when you are parked after you have had the ac on your jeep will drip water. that drain is plugged witch wont allow the water to exit your vehicle and it is just sitting in your ducts growing mold. you will have to open up the ducts, not sue where n your vehicle, and blow out that drain.
The dealer has a fix for this.
Part Number 4897625AB
*Coating-COOFB-1
$46.25
Or you can go down to your local Heating & Air Conditioning Supply house and purchase ‘Evaporator Cleaner', for about $10/gallon and it is diluted 3:1.
The procedure for both is to;
Run the vehicle with the heat on max, fan on High for 5-10 minutes.
This is to remove the moisture from the inside air supply box.
Next remove the access panel next to the fan motor.
Turn the fan back on to High and spray the evaporator.
The engine may or may not be running for the application.
The Mopar spray can has a very long nozzle like the short one that comes on a can of WD40.
The Supply House cleaner will need to be applied with a sprayer, like a pump up garden sprayer.
The Mopar spray will not harm the interior of the vehicle but the Supply House liquid must be watched. It to will not harm Leather or Cloth but I do not recommend spraying until a mist is coming out of the vents and it my drip from the panel opening you are spraying into.
Have towels ready to catch any liquid that may run out.
The Mopar spray is a vapor and will not run out onto the carpet.
Both are not harmful to you or the environment.
Cleaning the Throttle
Your jeep has a throttle body assembly. There is a rubber air tube which runs from the big black air cleaner box so you can locate it very easy. Loosen the screw and remove the tube from the throttle body.
It will reveal a metal round hole. Look down it and there is a metal door which you can move with your finger by pushing it.
If this hole and behind the door are very dirty (black) buy some carb cleaner and get an old tooth brush. Spray the cleaner down the round metal hole while holding the door open. Take the tooth brush and clean the entire area. Do it more than once if needed. Then take the cleaner again and spray off the excess.
Reinstall the rubber tube and tighten the screw.
There is a motor inside this metal assembly. When it gets very dirty it will cause your vehicle to die or hesitate on acceleration. This motor is called a throttle position sensor and DOES NOT move like it should if too dirty.
Changing differential oil
Synthetic differential oil is about 8 bucks a qt going to need 2 plus .5 hour labor to be generous.
I do my own. I use a small pump that I bought for the lower unit on my outboard motor. It screws right on to the dif oil container and I just pump it in with out the mess of trying to pour it in or use a suction gun.
Need some silicone (RTV) - 1/8" bead around the cover and tighten the bolts to 25 ftlb torqu
I was at the Jeep "stealership" to buy synthetic differential fluid along with the limited slip additive, and asked how they handle this type of switch. I was advised to use brake cleaner and wipe everything clean before re-assembly (especially at the bottom of the case).
I followed these instructions and everything went very smoothly, except refilling the rear differential which was difficult because of the fuel tank placement in front of the differntial cover. I used a section of 1/2" clear hose attached to the end of the gear oil bottle with a small hose clamp to squeeze the fluid in there.
hat's interesting, I read on
www.getahelmet.com that you could also use Kerosene to clean inside the Differential housing. The article also mentioned using brake or carburetor cleaner, but states that Kerosene is less harsh! The article goes on to say that Kerosene when used to degrease the gears, acts like a lubricant & will not break down the rubber seals like solvents do.
My only question now is about the T-Case. When switching to Synthetic is it a big job to remove the T-Case cover, or is it just like removing the differential covers?
Check Engine Light
How to test codes for 95 and less with self diagnaotics. Turn the key from off to on 3 times (not to start!!!) leave the key in the on position , wait a sec or 2, the check engine light will flash, this is a code. The light will flash 1-9 times pause for a sec and flash again 1-9 times, this gives you a 2 digit code. after the first code is done it will pause for a longer time and flash another code if there is more than one problem. If you only get 55 nothing is wrong, if you get other codes then 55 singles the end of the diagnostic. 12 is the code for the battery being disconnected within the past 50 cycles. Turn the key off when finished. Repeat if you didn't get codes.