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Originally Posted by adrenalinejunkie76
yeah sorry i meant 4.25, but if thats still out of the ? i realy dont know what im goign to do, i realy dont have enought money to do much, im not old enough to get a job, right now carrelo rods is a dream for me, ive been told honda rods work well and have some of the same dimentions of the carrelo rods so ill proboboly be getting those. i cant buy anohter block and i cant buy new pistons(not enough money), im stuck with what ive got, so realy my only option for getting more ci is in the crank,
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First of all, there is a lot of stuff here that needs to be straightened out. You can't just buy a crank and put it in. You need new rods, pistons, machine work, and careful measuring. If you just increase the stroke by a 1/4", you add 0.125" more stroke to the bottom AND top. Your pistons would smash into the heads and possibly pull the rings out the bottom of the bore. You have to have a new combination of rod length and piston pin height, as well as ring land spacing. If you just reduce the length of your rods by 1/4" you'll dramatically increase the side loads and vastly change the inertial loads and piston speeds... and that's just this small example. You're talking about going from 3.48" to 4.25"!!! That's 0.752" or over 3/4"!!! That's just unheard of. You won't be able to fit it in your block anyway without some serious grinding, a new cam and pushrods, and several other very careful parts choices.
Put is this way; you could buy an SB 427 rebuild kit with pistons, rings, all the gaskets AND crank, bearings, oil pump, and ARP hardware, AND have your block remachined for less money than you could cram a 4.25" stroke in it. Not to mention in the end you'd have a "new" engine instead of a way undersqare poor performer.
I'm also not sure where you heard that Honda rods have the same specs as a small block chevy, but that is just bull. No way, no how, nope. Even if they did, would you want to trust your 427 ci monster to rods that are designed to hold 125 hp in a 100 ci engine? I wouldn't think so.
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the only reason why motor isnt done with a stock crank in it is becouse my dad can get deals on crankshaft speacalties cranks, so im holding out and saving money for that, i cant do much modification to the block or the oil pan, the motor is going in to a 1976 vega that im building and it reqires a speacal oil pan. i get my machining half price so the block portion is not a big deal, if i can only go to a 400 ci motor(crank and all), im putting on a 6/71 street blower, the pistons that i got are blower pistons so that would work out, my original plans where to get a blower but a guy backed out on a deal so now i have 8 to one compression blower pistons insteade of a higher compresion reg piston. but im eying another one, just a ?, does anyone know how much EFI would cost for a motor like mine? right now efi and a blower is in the distant futor, being that im building the frame right now, havent desided weather or not im going with a 4 link or ladder bar yet. ill get some answers at the pri show, hopefully i can put a 4.25 crank in it without to much modification.
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Its kinda hard to follow you on this. If you get deals on cranks and half price machine work, you can't afford pistons, but you have new pistons, and EFI and a blower are in the plans. The blower is EXPENSIVE. The tuning is involved, the machine work to run a blower motor is intense, and EFI will probably cost you at least $2500 on a motor like this. $1100 for a good computer, several hundred for the injectors, someone to tune it, the special distributor needed to clear the blower, the coil and primaries to make enough spark for the high combustion pressures, the fuel pump, the plumbing, and the gas tank modifications will end up costing even more.
Let's put it this way. There is absolutely no such thing as cheap power. If you want a 427 small block, there is no sunny way to put it, you're looking at $6000 even if you assemble it yourself. If you want a 6-71 blown motor, you're looking at $8000. Add a bunch more for EFI. Contrast that with this scenario: give up on the extra 21 cubes, buy core SB 400 for $150, have the machine work done for $1000, assemble it yourself with a PAW rebuild kit for $280, add some good ported iron heads (another $300 for the machine work) and add a hydraulic flat tappet cam that measures out to about 236/246 at 50 with about .500" lift, some 1-3/4" headers and 2.5" dual exhaust. That should net you about 425 streetable HP for $2500. That's a really ideal situation, but I built a 450-horse 454 BB for a total investment of $2400, and THEY assembled the shortblock. If you can't do it for under $3000, you should do more shopping. If I'm on a budget, I'd be so much happier with a reliable 425 horses for $3000 than a cobbled together 600 horses for $8000
Again, no flames intended, but I strongly urge you to do some serious homework on this project. I think you've received some very wrong information and I would hate to see you lose your shirt based on it.