MFH 250 GTO Problem

I was working on my MFH 250 GTO, and yet more trouble. I tried to drill out the vents in the side like this: http://www.auw12.zhenghaochen.com/?p=17 and I messed up. I made the holes too wide, and I knocked out the line in between the two vents. Is there a way to get a new body? :crying::uhoh::headshake:mad:

I don't know about obtaining a new body, but I would have knocked out the middle part from the beginning, and replaced it with a styrene sheet. The thickness will be uniform, and it'd be much more convincing.

You basically cut out a styrene sheet that look like the capital letter "I". Make it a bit taller than the vent. Then, on the body, use a chisel to make a little indentation at the top and bottom of the I-shaped center piece, so you'll have surfaces to glue the piece on. Finally, prime, sand and polish the modded area, so the two dissimilar materials will have uniform smoothness.

I was working on my MFH 250 GTO, and yet more trouble. I tried to drill out the vents in the side like this: http://www.auw12.zhenghaochen.com/?p=17 and I messed up. I made the holes too wide, and I knocked out the line in between the two vents. Is there a way to get a new body? :crying::uhoh::headshake:mad:

TBH if you don't have the skills to fix a simple problem like that you probably shouldn't be attempting to build a MFH kit which is made for advanced modelers.

Anyway, my fix would be much like hirofkd's.

TBH if you don't have the skills to fix a simple problem like that you probably shouldn't be attempting to build a MFH kit which is made for advanced modelers.

Exactly my thoughts. Besides - I´m getting the feeling that this user doesn´t exist in real life and some other user on AF is having fun with this one giving us a boot full once in awhile.


Robert

I´m getting the feeling that this user doesn´t exist in real life and some other user on AF is having fun with this one giving us a boot full once in awhile.

just so you know, both IP addreses related to this member are unique to this member.

Isn't the MFH body the same as the one from the Fujimi kit?

just so you know, both IP addreses related to this member are unique to this member.

I was joking a bit. The questions asked and the answers received in the past added to the fact that there is no process in conforming to the forum made me wonder.


Robert

Isn't the MFH body the same as the one from the Fujimi kit?

Depends.
MFH produced both the '62 and '64 250 GTOs, and both of them in several declinations.

Fujimi only did the '62 one.

And anyway the shape and dimensions will not be exactly the same.

Try to repair the body shell you are working on now it isn't that complicated. And in the future refrain from trying stuff you are not sure you can achieve, keep it simple and learn, slowly.

I'm doing the '62 GTO. Great kit.

I'm doing the '62 GTO. Great kit.

Yes, it is.
Show us some pictures, people around here will be able to help you with various problems if they can see what exactly you need.

I guess you will have a hard time getting a new body. I'm building the kit too and you really should try the vac. windows first and see if the fit to the body....mine didn't and I ruined one set and the second made me crazy.

daniel
-germany-

P.S. my buildreport...will update soon but pretty much lost motivation

http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=27674.0

Great work. Can you give me any tips on detailing the interior and engine? I am building mine specially for IPMS competitions.

Is there any way to get replacement parts for my MFH 250 GTO?

yes, MFH sells repalcement parts...but I tried to buy from them with no success. communication is very difficult. maybe try a reseller !?!

daniel
-germany-

I finally built all four of the wire wheels for my GTO. I goofed on one of the wire wheels. I know that the wheel discs are to be under the rod, and not over the rod. How do I remove the rear insert without damaging the spokes?

hammer

BFH!:evillol::ylsuper:

BFH!:evillol::ylsuper:
Hey Alex - good to see you are alive and well and living up to your sig :bigthumb: :evillol::evillol:

Guys, how am I supposed to remove the spokes out of the inserts without damaging them?

Hey Alex - good to see you are alive and well and living up to your sig :bigthumb: :evillol::evillol:

Yeah baby! :smokin:

I even put a freshly completed model on the shelf a few days ago but I do not know how to post pics of it on the forum :grinno:

This isn't funny! I am serious about this, and I need help! Is there a way to remove the back of the inserts for the MFH Borrani wheels? Please help me out here!

Guys, how am I supposed to remove the spokes out of the inserts without damaging them?

Can't understand where's the problem: if happens it would be a great inspiration to create a new thread to ask how to purchase a spare PE fret from Hiro.... :evillol::evillol::evillol:

I built one of the wire wheels and f'd up. I know that there is a rod that goes in the middle, and the center of the wheel discs are supposed to go under the rod. I put two of the discs over the rod, and I do not know how to remove the back of the inserts so I can rebuild the wheels.

I just noticed that the rear window on my MFH GTO has a dent in it. Is that normal? Is there a way to reshape the window?

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/SMILEYS/trolls.gif

Say what?

I've been following some of your threads and your questions, and to be honest, the only suggestion that I can give you is this: if you don't know answers to the questions you are asking, you probably shouldn't be working with Hiro kits. Get some cheap Revell, and experiment until you feel comfortable doing BASIC modeling. If you need to ask how to disassemble something, you shouldn't be assembling it.

If you need to ask how to disassemble something, you shouldn't be assembling it.

:smokin:

Say what?

http://www.city-data.com/forum/attachments/unemployment/40621d1240844760-many-hiring-managers-will-not-interview-do_not_feed_trolls-1-.jpg

hammer

BFH!:evillol::ylsuper:

:smokin:

I built a Hasegawa 250 TR with MFH wheels, and it came out amazing. This is the only time I've had trouble with an MFH product.

Do you really know what is scale modelling? Asking for help is no big deal, but looking at the extend of what you have asked, i'd probably give u the same advice to get a cheap kit to build your experience or at the very least, try as many as times as to repair the stuff. It really seems to me you are not making an effort here to show your interest in this hobby. This hobby is not about asking for help non-stop and rather its more about experimenting and thinking or even searching what others have done to prevent mistakes.

I believe MFH products are in good quality and i think the instructions for their kits or even wheels are clear enough. Im sure you have the ability disassemble it and rebuild it. If not show us pictures to prove what you have screwed up and maybe from there, more help will be given.

MFH 250 GTO is one of my all time favourite kit, i really hope it can be treated with great execution of work

hmmm...I think this is is all of great help for 250Testarossa :loser:

microwave

Not to feed the trolls or anything but MFH DOES offer replacement parts for very reasonable price. Just email Kyoko Hiro at [email protected]. She communicates well in English. Service is excellent just like their kits. She opened a complete Porsche RSR kit just to sell me the decal.

Is there a way to get MFH replacement parts? Should I get them from HLJ? I need a new set of wire wheels for my 250 GTO.

Is there a way to get MFH replacement parts? Should I get them from HLJ? I need a new set of wire wheels for my 250 GTO.


Email them here:

[email protected]

They speak good english and are very easy to deal with.

I know I messed my wire wheels for my GTO up. Is there a way to completely strip them down and rebuild them?

yes, use nitro thinner or nail polish remover (aceton). Just dip them in and wait, it wil remove paint and glue with no problem.

Thanks. It worked. I am going to rebuild the wire wheels ASAP.

I managed to rebuild the wire wheels... I have had no luck with getting parts from Hiro. Is there another option for parts?

they are the best I melted my f40 body they sent me a new assembly for free and they were happy to do so

Nah, best abandon hope.

Why don't you use a set of the PE wire wheels for Hasegawa's 250?

I am still working on my 250 GTO (K078). I made a huge mistake drilling out the front hole in the nose in the body. I have tried several times to correct the body, and I have failed. I am desperately trying to get help and also a new body for it. :uhoh: :disappoin :runaround: :frown: :crying: :shakehead :screwy: Please help me get through this build, and I can use all the help I can get from you guys. Thanks.

There is always a solution however you have to show us pictures so that we can see what your problem is.

:cwm27:He's gettin' a footky account....:cwm27:


:eek7:(EDIT: Holy cow, he DID get a Fotki account! Now we can see what he's doing.):eek7:

Seeing as you basically have a whole bunch of questions/problems relating to the building of a Model Factory Hiro Ferrari 250 GTO, I'm going to consolidate all of your related threads into one complete thread so all your questions are in one place.

I got these off my Fotki account.

Here guys.

so what's the problem?
from the looks of it, all you need to do is to build up some material using some two part putty and then to block sand it back into shape.

putty i would recommend are:

tamiya's two part quick putty
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_d18--oLWmeg/Sehw6CS0LhI/AAAAAAAAAWE/lU-NEdN64QY/s320/87051_tamiya+epoxy+putty+quick+type.jpg

or

milliput white
http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/media/managed/products/659-large1.jpg

for future reference, it's better to post decent sized (900 wide is a good reference) images directly here using the [img] tags (done by clicking that postcard with mountains icon) and then pasting in the url of the image.

with regards to what you're doing with the kit; you probably should've started by working away at the material on the inside of the kit instead of going in from the front.

I tried using Squadron putty, and it still didn't come out right. Here's a closer look

http://images43.fotki.com/v680/photos/7/1692177/8952907/DSC00201-vi.jpg

http://images116.fotki.com/v716/photos/7/1692177/8952907/DSC00199-vi.jpg

:cwm27:He's gettin' a footky account....:cwm27:


:eek7:(EDIT: Holy cow, he DID get a Fotki account! Now we can see what he's doing.):eek7:

Just look under the Fotki name KidCharlemagne.

ok.

squadron putty is not the same as either of the two i listed.
a brief explanation is found in the faqs (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?postid=579044#post579044) (did you look there?)

Squadron is a toulene based putty.
The two I listed are two-part epoxy putties.

That isn't to say that you can't use squadron putty here; just that it isn't the best material as it doesn't bond to the resin and I've never been a fan of how it sands.

With the other two epoxy putties, you can work it in-situ with wet fingers before it has cured hard so that sanding is minimal.
With deft work using various shaping tools (aka sticks with flat surfaces and rounded/curved surfaces) you can even blend the putty into whatever shape you need.
As a bonus, when either has cured it also ends up being very similar to plastic and resin kits material so sanding is more consistant over the are when the two materials meet.

Buy some, mix a small ball up and have a play with it to see how to handle them and what they can do.

Squadron putty is more suited for use on plastic kits as the solvent helps it to physically bond with the plastic. As I said though, I don't like the stuff because it's a pain to work with. It shrinks as it cures if you apply too much, it's rather too brittle for delicate shaping and not sanding consistantly, chipping and pitting all over the place.


But seriously; why are you trying to build a MFH kit when you seem so unsure of what you are doing?
Why don't you buy a Fujimi kit for $40 instead of butchering a MFH kit that cost you $300+?

The MFH kit is more precise. I love working with resin and multimedia parts.

Fair enough if you think that but remember that the MFH has a typical combined chassis-frame/interior tub whereas the Fujimi kit has a seperate and very complete chassis-frame.
Sure the MFH has a much better engine but that just means you need to put a little work into the Fujimi to make it match.
On the other hand the MFH, like most resin kits has a chunky arse thick body shell where the plastic kits have a more realistic nice and thin body shell not to mention that resin kits aren't always fall together fitment while modern plastic kits tend to fall into place without much effort.
As you have found out, the MFH also doesn't come with the major openings in the body open.

So, what kit is more precise/real/accurate?

In any case you do realise you are asking some very basic modelling questions here which leads to the conclusion that maybe you're not at a point where it's worth you putting effort into a MFH kit when the alternative might prove to be a better practicing exercise.

The MFH kit is very accurate. Even the body is exact. Mine is the LM63 kit.

The MFH kit is very accurate. Even the body is exact.

so you say but if it's so accurate, how come you're having to modify it?
anyway, it's clear that you're not going to get my point.
good luck.

The MFH body has a couple quirks, but with some work, it will do.

You need now same skills of the modeler that mastered the prototype: when you have a dremel or a file in a hand better to imagine your model as the coolest girl in the world: be careful and forgot hurry.

Ok: nothing impossible, but you have two choice, the first needs patience, skills, experience and luck: and is the one you tried without much success (BTW: we can only IMAGINE wher's the issue, please try to achieve decent pictures: get good pictures is important as (and more) do accurate neat models if you intend to share on web....)

I'll suggest a second way: try to get one accurate template of the "mouth", draw also the vertical simmetry axis: bes/accurate the template>>> best the result. Transfer the draw on a rigid material: best in my opinion is PVC foam (forex boards) but you can use all you get on hand: even laminated 2K putty or stirene. Cut the template and double chek it until it would be PERFECT: now you got a MOULD.

At this point you may also destroy the whole mouth and find a way to attach the mould, use a release agent (bath white powder, we call it TALCO) and fill with epoxy putty.

At last my impression is quite near Drunken Monkey thought: anyway you're free to do what you desire with your money and even ask things that looks stupid for most.... so stupid that we started to joke and do gags... now it is time for you to show balls and finish the work! ;)

Remember: BE CAREFUL, think 10 times before take in hand a file, imagine the job 100 times before do it (someone with one elevated spirituality may call it "to create"... is not so different :D), and as last... do better pictures :D, good job.

Im sorry but adding to what everyone has said, honestly I look through your questions and I really feel you are not sincere in scale modeling. Pardon me if Im wrong, but i feel that if you really wish to enjoy building models, you should learn through either of these two ways. 1) Grab cheap kits to get your basics right. 2) Get a personal mentor to teach you, and depending on your luck see if he's willing to coach you for free. For myself I will only consult another person for sharing certain innovative or fantastic methods in the course of building a model. I really wonder at the speed you are going, when will you really complete this kit and I also wonder what will be the next questions you will be asking. If I rmb correctly, you had issues with the wheels, with the body that now you had to putty and etc, I really presume that you will move on to ask something like 'what/which paint to use, how to paint/spray paint or even where/how to replace photoetched parts because I screwed it up again?' You mentioned that MFH kits is accurate and precise. I agree 99% of your statement based on the fact that i too have the kit. But if I finished this kit with a broken wire wheel, bad paint job, bad putty job, would anyone still care its accurate or not? With correct modeling skills, you can even make a Revell 250 GTO (less accurate in my opinion) look excellent.

Well, Ferrari 250 GTO is one of my favorite cars and i definitely hope this car can be as beautifully finished as possible. But I will not feel as disgusted if some newbie who too loves this car, messed up this model with correct attitude towards modeling as compared to someone who doesnt even bother to pick up basic skills himself before trying.

Please rethink why you want to start scale modeling, I really hope its because you like scale modeling and has passion in it. Because if its not, better go to the diecast industry where you can get really good finished models at about prices below the cost of a MFH kit. I'm helping you to save time effort and money. As far as I can see, you doesnt seem to have the right attitude and passion.

Nevertheless, I believe the guys here in this forum including me are still willing to help you to a certain extent, but what we need is your photos and more importantly, your sincerity. You answers are sometimes not very sincere to me simply because you are not answering questions people post for you and yet you hope to get answers from us. Lasty, I have yet to see your completed 250 Testa Rossa that you claimed to have taken a painstaking year to complete. Therefore, please help yourself in order for us to help you. I'm not in the position in lecturing you but I just want you to know that I build my skills and knowledge through trial and error and I hope you can do that too.

Ro