05' 3.8 wont start after UIM, VC gasket replaced

I'll try to make this brief~

failed inspection with a code for bank 1 lean. dealership diagnosed it as a leak in the UIM gasket, or possibly a cracked UIM. I dissasembled it and UIM was fine, but bank 1 valve cover was leaking oil everywhere, I also broke one of the spark plug wires so in the end I replaced the VC gasket, the UIM gasket, the PCV valve, all the plugs and all the wires.

On re-assembly one of the injector insulator's hadn't come out with the injector so when I was reinstalling it got pushed down into the LIM and when I tried to fish it out it made it all the way into the head, coming to a rest on the valve. I tried to fish it out with one of those flexible shaft push button grabber thingies, but couldn't get it. eventually I shoved a shop vac into the LIM and sucked it out replaced it on the injector with the O ring (which had also fallen in) and reinstalled everything.

When I got it all done and tried to start it the first few times (maybe 5 attempts to crank it over, 1-2 seconds in duration) it wouldn't start and sounded terrible, I found I had the plug wired hooked into the coil packs in the wrong order, so I fixed it and tried it a few more times. It sounded better, but would only run for 1 second or so before stumbling and dieing and there was black residue on the snow behind the tailpipe. I thought I may have flooded it, so I removed all 6 plugs (they were visibly wet and smelled like gas, were also stained black already) and disconnected the injector connectors, and cranked it for 10s let it rest for 2 min, and repeated two more times. then I let it sit with the plugs out for about an hour to dry. after that I reinstalled the plugs and wires, and injector connectors and tried again but it does the exact same thing. It will run for a few seconds, sometimes shooting up to 2500rpm or so, then stalling, and sometimes just stumbling and stalling right away. typical durration for it to stay running is only 1 or 2 seconds, and I am finding more black residue behind the tail pipe.

Any advice is greatly appreciated Ive checked everything 10x and can't find anything obviously wrong, and I've taken everythign apart and redone the job enough times that I could have replaced 5 UIM gaskets by now. I did notice that several of the electrical connectors on the throttle body could fit in the same sockets, but I'm pretty sure based on where the wires come out of the loom, and how they are bent that I have them back in the correct location, If I can't get any advice I'll throw up a pic here in a little bit.


TIA

Adding some picture that I'm hoping you guys can double check, would greatly help me out.

First of all, what is this part? I think I tore the vacuum elbow going to it today but I can't be sure It wasn't already torn, which got me wondering what it is. It has a vaccuum source, a fuel line, and a red electrical connector. maybe a fuel dampner?
http://www.fuergrissa.net/images/UIM/e.jpg


Then I would appreciate if somone can tell if these electrical connectors are in the right places on the throttle body. I'm curious if the MAF and IAC or TPS connectrs could be reversed.
http://www.fuergrissa.net/images/UIM/f.jpg
http://www.fuergrissa.net/images/UIM/g.jpg


Finally I found this connecter which isn't connected to anythign and doesn't look to have been for a long time, any idea what it's for? It resides above the ABS actuator currently.

http://www.fuergrissa.net/images/UIM/d.jpg

1st pic with the map sensor disconnected, why? 2cnd pic looks like the maf sensor is not securely plugged in, 3rd pic, what is the broken wire/splice? Is the vacuum hose back on the fuel press. regulator? The cracked pipe is part of the closed evap emissions system, must be fixed, but is not your problem here. For now tape it up see what happens.

first pic, yeah the MAP sensor is unplugged, I had taken it off to re-pull the fuel rails and hadn't plugged it back in when I took the pic cause it wasn't what I was trying to show, you can also see that the coil pack post is disconnected in the pic, but I reconnected all of this when trying to start it.

2nd pic all the plugs are unsecured cause I was trying to show the color of the seals, thinking maybe that was one way people could Identify which one goes where and tell me if they were in the right positions.

Third pic I went yesterday and bought a new vacuum tree for the evap canister and fuel pressure regulator, but as you said, that didn't fix my problem.

Going to have it towed to the dealership tomorrow I guess Only Idea I have left is that I may have a misconception about the Cylinder numbers can anyone verify this diagram is accurate?

http://www.fuergrissa.net/images/UIM/cylinder.jpg
**Correction** I actually swapped #1 and #6 in this diagram from the way I have them on the car

Does anyone know how to test for a bad coil pack? the one in the center has a crack in the plastic cover.

Think I may have it figured out. Went out with my timing light to check the coil packs and they all seem to be working, but for the first time had my wife out there to turn it over while I was under the hood rather than behind the wheel. seems like it's sucking in quite a good bit of air around the throttle body and driver's side of the UIM. Going to order a new gasket kit and a torque wrench. I probably overtightened it by trying to guess.

Can anyone confirm that a good size vaccuum leak could cause these symptoms? also can anyone reccomend a good torque wrench? I know they are less accurate at the extremes of their adjustment and all the ones I see in the stores are 10-100 ft/lbs. I know the UIM is 7.5 ft-lb so I nee a pretty small one right?