01 windstar isolator bolts

I did the intake isolator bolts this morning, i had the P0191/0194 codes. Before looking online i replaced the plugs/wires, all 4 O2 sensors, PCV valve, Mass air flow.

While installing the isolator bolts and the top of the plentum I did not us a torque wrench (not sure if that is a cause)

As soon as we installed everything and started it up it had a rough idle, and when driving it it was bucking a little bit as i drove it some more it eased up a little but it real bad when trying to maintain speed and starting out. It is verry sluggish to start, when you give it moderate gas it runs fine, but at idle or at stop or just maintainng a speed it bucks.

I took it to a local shop and they hooked up the OBD machine and the OBD has no power, i looked on the internet and they both are connected to the same fuse. Not sure if that would make it run rough but i don't think it would??

Anyone have any ideas why it would run rough as soon as i did the isolator bolt repair? it rain fine (better) before i did the repair.. Just really frustrated right now:swear:. Any help would be greatly appreacited!!!!!!!

Also not sure where the fuse is.... tring to warm up as it is 12 degrees outside...Also i live in a suburb where all the auto part stores are closed now..so i cant get a fuse today.

Fuse #17, if I remember correctly ... the cabin fuse box, I believe. It feeds a cigar lighter also.

Fuse #17, if I remember correctly ... the cabin fuse box, I believe. It feeds a cigar lighter also.

It does also control the lighter! I was to frozen to go back out there, even with a torpedo heater the garage was very cold..

About the rough idle, take a look on the rear right side of the plenum (passenger side), there is a big vacuum hose that is connected to the plenum, some people who did the job ( isolator bolts) forgot to reconnect this hose which cause a very erratic idle condition. Let us know. By the way, extremly cold on the north est side of NY state :):):), not a good weather to play in your engine.....

All hoses are connected, i double and trippled checked. I replaced the fuse!
I an now getting a P0460 code which is Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction. Not sure if this would couse the rough driving/idling.
I replaced the fuel filter in it today as well. I paid a shop to do it last year and guess what they didn't do it.
The gas coing out of it was dark brown. So i did that put some injector cleaner in it, and I have drove about27 miles and still is doing it...

It almost feels like is is not getting enough gas? Someone said it could be the throttle sensor on the top of the engine next to the mass air flow

I also hear a slapping sound when it starts to bog almost like something smacking open and closed. It will bang once and then a few seconds later bang again. Obly when it starts to bog.

Getting so frustrated with this:runaround: i cannot even explain, no one knows anything and it seems i just keep throwing more and more money in this van... Really could use help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not sure if this would couse the rough driving/idling.

......and still is doing it... ??

It almost feels like is is not getting enough gas?

I also hear a slapping sound when it starts to bog almost like something smacking open and closed. It will bang once and then a few seconds later bang again. Obly when it starts to bog.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fuel problems can cause "bogging" ... and can do it without giving meaniful codes.

Lets stick with the fact that you saw dirty gasoline when you changed out the in-line filter. You can count on there being more "dirt" in the system ... from the tank to the injectors.
1. The injectors have inlet screens. I would remove each of the injectors and blast the top of the injectors with brake cleaner or carb cleaner ... this is all that is needed here ... do no further cleaning on the injectors!
2. Drop the tank and inspect both the tank and the pump inlet screen ... the pump screen you will want to replace.
3. .... then change the in-line filter again ... and repeat until you see no trace of dirt.

..... good cold-weather work! Be careful ... that stuff burns even in the cold!

Still running bad. I have injector cleaner in the gas. It is running a little better. Gas is now clean in the fuel filter. It mainly does it under a load and when the engine is warm now.
I drove about 8-10 miles this moring and there was no bucking/hesitation/door slapping noise. Then i was stuck at my first red light (8-10 miles away from home) and went to accelarate and then starting hesiating and doing everything is was for about another 10 miles, and then the last 8 miles to work it was running fine. It also seems to be worse at a higher speed and going up hills (any time you need more power)
My buddy is friends with some x mechanics that worked for a ford dealer adn they said that it sounds like it could be the coil pack? Is that the same as the ignition coil? I know it sounds dumb i'm just making sure it is the same... or he said the EGR, he though maybe more the coil as is it doing it maily when there is a load ont he engine.. Still nowhere with this and inspection is do soon...

Yesterday i also have noticed that my coolant reserve is pretty much empty. I have noticed small drops of coolant in the snow on the driveway so now i have to figure where this leak is coming from... Oh boy.. I have owned 9 fords and this van is by far the hardest to work on...

Good news is that we are having a warm up it is supposed to be a high of 28 today!!!!!

I will keep you guys posted and any other suggestions are welcomed :naughty:!!!!

Today I was getting a P302, which is misfire cylnder 2. Check the wires they were good then i looked at the ignition coil and saw a small crack. I took off the coil off and there was a total of 4 cracks. 2 that were pretty big, 1 went from side to side the long way.
After i took it off i checked the resistance and the middle two coils had an ohm reading of 0.00 the other ones were in specs around 10.8ish.
Went to autozone and bough a new ignition coil 76 bucks later and put it in. hooked the wires up and then test drove it without the cowl on..
So far the bogging and bucking is gone and drove alot better, no hesitation and acceleration is fine again!!!!!!
I'm hoping that that takes care of that.

So no p191/194 codes and there is still that p460 code still in memory before we unhooked everything. So not sure if i will be replacing that sensor soon but as of now (knock on wood) it is running good!!

Just boggles my mind that before i replaced the isolator bolts the ignition coil was fine and then after i mean immediatly after it was bad..

Thank you to everyone who helped!